R56 Your thoughts, oil change every 5,000 or 7,500?
I agree with all of your statements except for the micron level. I believe that the BMW/MINI filters are manufactured by Mahle. Their advertised filtration is 2 micron,which I believe is smaller than any thin film clearances between moving parts. At 15 micron I certainly would start to get concerned.
I did a forum search on my cigar BB, and came up with this thread:
(insert other discussion that ends up here):
I'm kind of shocked, because I bought off on Amsoil's "15 micron" claim without a second thought.
Originally Posted by OP
I was knocking around the world wide web yesterday and somehow stumbled on information about high performance oil filtration and a couple of synthetic oil products. One thing that seems to be a common theme is that if you can get an oil filter that can effectively filter out the majority of particles down to like 10 microns or even smaller, you can increase the time between oil changes and at the same time significantly reduce engine wear.
The Redline and Royal Purple sythetic motor oils that they were talking about sound like fantastic products with higher film strength and better overall lubricating properties. Up til now I have been skeptical of synthetic motor oils and reluctant to spend more mony on them, but I am beginning to change my opinion. I've been using Lucas Oil engine oil additive for a couple years now and as far as I can tell it's great stuff. I've also had good results with some of their other products.
Sooooo, anyone here using a high end 10 micron or smaller particle filter and or Redline or Royal Purple? What about oil filters that you can buy off the shelf at the autoparts store, any of them significantly better at particulate filtration? I'm hoping to keep both of my vehicles alive and healthy for 2-3 more years.
The Redline and Royal Purple sythetic motor oils that they were talking about sound like fantastic products with higher film strength and better overall lubricating properties. Up til now I have been skeptical of synthetic motor oils and reluctant to spend more mony on them, but I am beginning to change my opinion. I've been using Lucas Oil engine oil additive for a couple years now and as far as I can tell it's great stuff. I've also had good results with some of their other products.
Sooooo, anyone here using a high end 10 micron or smaller particle filter and or Redline or Royal Purple? What about oil filters that you can buy off the shelf at the autoparts store, any of them significantly better at particulate filtration? I'm hoping to keep both of my vehicles alive and healthy for 2-3 more years.
Originally Posted by filterguy's reply
"If its on the internet, its gotta be true!"
Buncha hogwash. Period. End of story.
Buncha hogwash. Period. End of story.
Originally Posted by OP
What's a bunch of hogwash?
Originally Posted by filterguy's reply
A 10 micron filter
Originally Posted by filterguy
I'm sure there are some companies that state that their filters are X micron rated filter, but it means squat - the industry does not have a standard for micron rating because there no one accepted method. Also, the rating is theoretical - there is nothing absolute about it. Comparing the micron rating of one manufacturer to another is meaningless and is only one measurement of a filter's performance.
If you want to look at numbers, theFilter Manufacturing Council has adopted Beta Ratios as the standard for testing fluid filters. Beta ratios show the filter's percentage efficiency at removing particles a certain micron or larger. Beta coefficients are determined using multipass tests, which is endorsed by the National Fluid Power Association (NFPA), American National Standard Institute (ANSI) and International Standards Organization (ISO) as the most scientifically reliable method of measuring a liquid filters effectiveness.
If you want to look at numbers, theFilter Manufacturing Council has adopted Beta Ratios as the standard for testing fluid filters. Beta ratios show the filter's percentage efficiency at removing particles a certain micron or larger. Beta coefficients are determined using multipass tests, which is endorsed by the National Fluid Power Association (NFPA), American National Standard Institute (ANSI) and International Standards Organization (ISO) as the most scientifically reliable method of measuring a liquid filters effectiveness.
It seems to me that (not counting a bypass filter) if you design a medium that filters particles as small as 2 microns with any efficiency; then that medium will also be more restrictive to oil flow. The way you would compensate for that would be to increase the surface area by filter size, and/or design of the pleats. The bypass valve in the filter, and the oil pressure sending unit, would be designed to open (in the case of the valve) or warn (in the case of the sending unit) at a pressure corresponding to lubrication design requirements of the engine.
I could see making a bypass filter more efficient at filtering smaller particles than the primary filter, but that's going to filter a lower volume of oil (because of natural restriction in design); and since it's a secondary cleaning system, it would still allow passage of larger particles through the primary filter.
I could see making a bypass filter more efficient at filtering smaller particles than the primary filter, but that's going to filter a lower volume of oil (because of natural restriction in design); and since it's a secondary cleaning system, it would still allow passage of larger particles through the primary filter.
It seems to me that (not counting a bypass filter) if you design a medium that filters particles as small as 2 microns with any efficiency; then that medium will also be more restrictive to oil flow. The way you would compensate for that would be to increase the surface area by filter size, and/or design of the pleats. The bypass valve in the filter, and the oil pressure sending unit, would be designed to open (in the case of the valve) or warn (in the case of the sending unit) at a pressure corresponding to lubrication design requirements of the engine.
I could see making a bypass filter more efficient at filtering smaller particles than the primary filter, but that's going to filter a lower volume of oil (because of natural restriction in design); and since it's a secondary cleaning system, it would still allow passage of larger particles through the primary filter.
I could see making a bypass filter more efficient at filtering smaller particles than the primary filter, but that's going to filter a lower volume of oil (because of natural restriction in design); and since it's a secondary cleaning system, it would still allow passage of larger particles through the primary filter.
So the turbo doesn't require the flux capacitor at all? Will wonders never cease!
Aaah, see? They couldn't just eliminate the flux capacitor without compensating, so that's why they had to do a twin-scroll turbo. To make up for the sub-atomic changes in the flux due to the loss of the capacitor. It's clear to me now.
My mouse is single scrolled. twin scroll will be just too confusing. I have witnessed what superconductors could do at -70 degrees celcius. It was simply unbelieveable right in front of my eyes!
Someday I hope we will discover something similar that will functioni at room temp or higher.
Someday I hope we will discover something similar that will functioni at room temp or higher.
Yeah, especially if you're using the tachyon flux capacitor....Let me know and I can look up the specific model number....
Let the computer do its job!!! The engineers who designed this engine and its maintenance schedule are smarter than all of us. They don't want the engines to fail, do they????? NO THEY DON'T. I'm amazed at the people online here..."No way I'm waiting 7500 miles" blah blah....Hello folks, it's not 1970 and we're dealing with FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil and a filter to last with it.
Do you all throw your tires away at 10,000 miles too?? "Well they were not worn out, but just to be safe I'll install new ones"
The vehicle will monitor your driving and TELL YOU when to get an oil change. Anything done sooner is a total waste of money.
Sorry for the rant, been watching all these threads for a while and had to speak up. I wish you all the best with your MINI.

Do you all throw your tires away at 10,000 miles too?? "Well they were not worn out, but just to be safe I'll install new ones"
The vehicle will monitor your driving and TELL YOU when to get an oil change. Anything done sooner is a total waste of money.
Sorry for the rant, been watching all these threads for a while and had to speak up. I wish you all the best with your MINI.
Almost EVERY single product now is marketing and financially driven, engineers take a back seat.
It goes something like this (to shorten a long story):
Marketing - "our research tells us our target group hates having oil changes done, can we avoid this?"
Engineering - "err, no, we can't make an engine that doesn't need oil changes"
Marketing - "then how about making them really long so it doesn't bother people as much?"
Engineering - "that might be ok, but the engine life might suffer"
Marketing - "what is the statistical probability they will fail before the warrantee is up?"
Engineering - "we estimate its low, around 2-5%"
Marketing - "great, problem solved! glad we could figure it out"
Upper Mgmt - "engineering I gather you figured out the oil change problem with marketing?"
Engineering - "well, um, maybe but..."
Upper Mgmt - "good, lets move on and ship this product, we are late and losing estimated sales, the board is pressuring us to release this asap"
That pretty much sums it up, every company is under pressure to ship ship ship and get a bumper next quarter for the stock price and investors.
I'm under no illusion that the mini will be as reliable as the cars I have had previously, however its much newer that those and I wanted something fun.
I am taking extra precautions however and one of those is more frequent oil changes, I'm doing mine every 7,500 miles. I just took a drive in my mini this evening, quite fast 3-4.5krpms, 50-70% throttle for 10-12 miles. The turbo was cherry red when I pulled over to examine it, there is no way ANY oil can last 15k miles under those conditions.
I'll also be changing the gearbox oil about every 30-40k miles also.
ok soooo......
If you plan on getting rid of the car around the time when the warranty is up, do the oil change with the given intervals MINI recommends.
If you plan on keeping the car for much longer, go 5000 to 7,500 mile intervals
Got it!!
Just got a brand new 2012 Mini, gotta make sure it runs as strong as my 04 R50
If you plan on getting rid of the car around the time when the warranty is up, do the oil change with the given intervals MINI recommends.
If you plan on keeping the car for much longer, go 5000 to 7,500 mile intervals
Got it!!
Just got a brand new 2012 Mini, gotta make sure it runs as strong as my 04 R50
ok soooo......
If you plan on getting rid of the car around the time when the warranty is up, do the oil change with the given intervals MINI recommends.
If you plan on keeping the car for much longer, go 5000 to 7,500 mile intervals
Got it!!
Just got a brand new 2012 Mini, gotta make sure it runs as strong as my 04 R50
If you plan on getting rid of the car around the time when the warranty is up, do the oil change with the given intervals MINI recommends.
If you plan on keeping the car for much longer, go 5000 to 7,500 mile intervals
Got it!!
Just got a brand new 2012 Mini, gotta make sure it runs as strong as my 04 R50

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Kimolaoha
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
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Jul 5, 2023 01:04 PM




