R56 Your thoughts, oil change every 5,000 or 7,500?
That right there tells me that there is NO WAY a Cooper S should be going 15,000 to 20,000 miles between oil changes.
Of course BMW cares about repeat business, but they assume you will have moved on/up to another car by the time their pathetic service recommendations come back to bite you in the butt!
5,000 to 7,500 mile oil changes for me and my baby (once I get her that is)
Ironically, Castrol Syntec is not a fully synthetic oil (despite what the label might say). Personally in a turbocharged car I wouldn't wait longer than 5,000 miles if you drive it relatively hard for a good portion of those miles. The reason being is the turbo. If you've ever watched an EGT(exhaust gas temp) gauge on a car it makes a whole lot of sense why. Let's just say a good EGT gauge will go up to 2000* F.
"If you live in a cold climate, take mostly very short trips, tow a trailer or have a high-revving, high-performance engine, use the more aggressive schedule."
That right there tells me that there is NO WAY a Cooper S should be going 15,000 to 20,000 miles between oil changes.
That right there tells me that there is NO WAY a Cooper S should be going 15,000 to 20,000 miles between oil changes.
"many car markers now include oil-life monitors that tell you when the oil is dirty -- sometimes as long as 15,000 miles."
Again, you do what you want. Your car, your money
Point taken. I just don't see how a turbocharged engine that is putting out over 100hp per litre can possibly go 15,000 miles on an oil change. Just doesn't make any sense to me and my "oil company brain-washed" brain.

Basically, American car owners have been brainwashed that you have to change your oil ever 3K miles DESPITE the car makers saying 5K or 10K on Dino oil nevermind synthetic.
And why not? Who is making money here? Why should oil change companies start advertising ...
"Hey, no need to come in after 3K miles, cmon in about 7500 miles ... you'll be fine". Yeah sure. IMO, its a play on peoples fear or worse yet ... "Well my dad said change your oil every 3000 miles and his 65 Mustang got 120K miles so that is what I'm going to do".
OK ... thats fine.
Last edited by chows4us; Jun 26, 2007 at 04:47 PM.
Once upon a time 3000 made some sense. Crummy oil, different engines, different filters. So did cod liver oil. Like that stuff they try and sell you for $30 at Jiffy Lube that cleans out your engine while you idle it for 5 minutes. Right! People buy it, makes them feel like the car is better. So does changing the oil a lot. But I'm not seeing any scientific evidence that you need to do it that often. And the scientific people say you don't.
I'm sure that BMW did their homework when coming up with those algorithms. For normal driving I can see going 10K miles without changing the oil and having no issues whatsoever, my friend does this with his 626 even. However, if you do a fair amount of spirited driving I wouldn't leave the oil in the car for more than 5K. Even if you gave the car time to cool down (like you're supposed to with FI motors). Turbo's get redicolously hot when you keep the engine loaded in higher rpms for a while (ever see cherry red turbo manifolds/exhaust housings?) and I know that oil doesn't last long above 1000* F. Granted it only is in that temp for a moment as it passes through the turbo it still picks up some of the heat and if you're in the higher rpms you're pumping the all of the oil through the turbo quite a bit.
Oils have many additives. Of them, there are detergents and dispersants. Detergents clean the parts of contaminates, and dispersants suspend them in the oil. The dispersants are analogous to the rag. There's only so many contaminates that can be held, and fresh oil (clean rag) will pick up more contaminates which the old oil (dirty rag) simply can't - because it's almost saturated.
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After all this banter I've made up my mind. Its going to be every 5,000 for my MCS! I already made an appointment this saturday to get the oil changed. Honestly if i had an MC i would do the 7,500 (not one mile more) but since this MCS engine gets so hot (turbo) and the compression is so dialed up (almost 100 HP per liter) im not taking any chances. I absolutely LOVE owning and driving this car and i plan on doing it for a very long time. That means fresh oil for my MINI every 5,000. cheers!! The rest of you can do what you please, its your MINI.
I think i'll trust the german engineers who get paid a LOT of money to do tests and see how long SYNTHETIC oil lasts.
Honestly, if a manual said twice as long as would be bad for your engine (ie 7,500 vs. 15,000) I think someone would figure this out.
My M.A. told me 15k ... so im going to go with around that. Obviously dependant on my driving habits, this will adjust a bit, but 5k is just not necessary.
Honestly, if a manual said twice as long as would be bad for your engine (ie 7,500 vs. 15,000) I think someone would figure this out.
My M.A. told me 15k ... so im going to go with around that. Obviously dependant on my driving habits, this will adjust a bit, but 5k is just not necessary.
For what it's worth, the 2007 MC & MCS Service and Warranty Information Booklet in the In the Condition Based Service (CBS) section says:
"Your Mini is factory-equipped newly-developed synthetic engine oil. At the time of the printing of this booklet MINI High Performance Synthetic 5W-30 Oil (Part Number 07 51 0 143 829) and Mobil 1 5W-30 and 5W-40 oils are strongly recommended and approved by the MINI Division of BMW North America, LLC for the MC and MCS models. The MINI Division is evaluating various synthetic oils for inclusion in our list of recommended motor oils. For the most current list of synthetic oils, please contact your authorized MINI dealer, or call the MINI Division at 1-866-275-6464 (ASK-MINI)."
It also says, "Change oil at least once a year".
"Your Mini is factory-equipped newly-developed synthetic engine oil. At the time of the printing of this booklet MINI High Performance Synthetic 5W-30 Oil (Part Number 07 51 0 143 829) and Mobil 1 5W-30 and 5W-40 oils are strongly recommended and approved by the MINI Division of BMW North America, LLC for the MC and MCS models. The MINI Division is evaluating various synthetic oils for inclusion in our list of recommended motor oils. For the most current list of synthetic oils, please contact your authorized MINI dealer, or call the MINI Division at 1-866-275-6464 (ASK-MINI)."
It also says, "Change oil at least once a year".
I changed the oil in my vr-4 every 2000 miles ("normal" driving) or after a race day, whichever comes first. I only used a true synthetic oil as well, motul 300v.
Mobil 1 also is no longer a true synthetic oil like the Castrol Syntec. They're based off of dino oils with a huge amount of additives, which yes does make them perform much better than conventional but still not as good as true synthetic. In fact, for most people true synthetic oil is bad as most of it is made specifically for race engines that see high loads for extended periods of time. Basically, unless you race your car it's better to use a "synthetic" oil than a synthetic oil.
For what it's worth, the 2007 MC & MCS Service and Warranty Information Booklet in the In the Condition Based Service (CBS) section says:
"Your Mini is factory-equipped newly-developed synthetic engine oil. At the time of the printing of this booklet MINI High Performance Synthetic 5W-30 Oil (Part Number 07 51 0 143 829) and Mobil 1 5W-30 and 5W-40 oils are strongly recommended and approved by the MINI Division of BMW North America, LLC for the MC and MCS models. The MINI Division is evaluating various synthetic oils for inclusion in our list of recommended motor oils. For the most current list of synthetic oils, please contact your authorized MINI dealer, or call the MINI Division at 1-866-275-6464 (ASK-MINI)."
It also says, "Change oil at least once a year".
"Your Mini is factory-equipped newly-developed synthetic engine oil. At the time of the printing of this booklet MINI High Performance Synthetic 5W-30 Oil (Part Number 07 51 0 143 829) and Mobil 1 5W-30 and 5W-40 oils are strongly recommended and approved by the MINI Division of BMW North America, LLC for the MC and MCS models. The MINI Division is evaluating various synthetic oils for inclusion in our list of recommended motor oils. For the most current list of synthetic oils, please contact your authorized MINI dealer, or call the MINI Division at 1-866-275-6464 (ASK-MINI)."
It also says, "Change oil at least once a year".
Mobil 1 also is no longer a true synthetic oil like the Castrol Syntec. They're based off of dino oils with a huge amount of additives, which yes does make them perform much better than conventional but still not as good as true synthetic. In fact, for most people true synthetic oil is bad as most of it is made specifically for race engines that see high loads for extended periods of time. Basically, unless you race your car it's better to use a "synthetic" oil than a synthetic oil.
Dude, you're talking out of your ***.
You say Mobil 1 is "no longer a true synthetic oil like the Castrol Syntec. They're based off of dino oils with a huge amount of additives, which yes does make them perform much better than conventional but still not as good as true synthetic", and yet I find this on the Mobil 1 website...
"Is Mobil 1 with SuperSyn Technology a fully synthetic motor oil?
Yes, it is. To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications (and our customers' expectations), Mobil 1 with SuperSyn uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with a proprietary system of additives. Each Mobil 1 with SuperSyn viscosity grade uses a unique combination of synthetic fluids and selected additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its specific application."
I think you need to keep your bogus $.02 to yourself.
Last edited by rattmobbins; Jun 26, 2007 at 09:14 PM.
I changed the oil in my vr-4 every 2000 miles ("normal" driving) or after a race day, whichever comes first. I only used a true synthetic oil as well, motul 300v.
Mobil 1 also is no longer a true synthetic oil like the Castrol Syntec. They're based off of dino oils with a huge amount of additives, which yes does make them perform much better than conventional but still not as good as true synthetic. In fact, for most people true synthetic oil is bad as most of it is made specifically for race engines that see high loads for extended periods of time. Basically, unless you race your car it's better to use a "synthetic" oil than a synthetic oil.
Mobil 1 also is no longer a true synthetic oil like the Castrol Syntec. They're based off of dino oils with a huge amount of additives, which yes does make them perform much better than conventional but still not as good as true synthetic. In fact, for most people true synthetic oil is bad as most of it is made specifically for race engines that see high loads for extended periods of time. Basically, unless you race your car it's better to use a "synthetic" oil than a synthetic oil.
Originally Posted by LazerRed1
Mobile 1 is no longer full synthetic.
Castrol 0W-30 (European Formula) is full synthetic as is Penzoil Platinum Synthetic, Amsoil's synthetics, and Rotella synthetic. All great oils.
Visit bobistheoilguy.com. Lots of good info.
The following reply refuted this:
This is not so. Please, call Mobil at - 1-800-662-4525, and talk to them yourself. You will find that Mobil 1 is a true Group IV, PAO based synthetic oil.
Steve
CEO of Hi-Tech Oil Co.
I changed the oil in my vr-4 every 2000 miles ("normal" driving) or after a race day, whichever comes first. I only used a true synthetic oil as well, motul 300v.
Mobil 1 also is no longer a true synthetic oil like the Castrol Syntec. They're based off of dino oils with a huge amount of additives, which yes does make them perform much better than conventional but still not as good as true synthetic. In fact, for most people true synthetic oil is bad as most of it is made specifically for race engines that see high loads for extended periods of time. Basically, unless you race your car it's better to use a "synthetic" oil than a synthetic oil.
Mobil 1 also is no longer a true synthetic oil like the Castrol Syntec. They're based off of dino oils with a huge amount of additives, which yes does make them perform much better than conventional but still not as good as true synthetic. In fact, for most people true synthetic oil is bad as most of it is made specifically for race engines that see high loads for extended periods of time. Basically, unless you race your car it's better to use a "synthetic" oil than a synthetic oil.
On Googling, two factors often mentioned by reputable sources (not forum opinions) with regard to extended oil change intervals: 1. Engine design is a big factor. The most recently designed engines are much easier on oil than previous designs. I wonder if the volume flow-controlled oil pump and the on-demand cooling might be factors in our engines? Anyhow, hopefully our very newly designed Mini Cooper power plants are as gentle on oil as these long extended oil change frequency aproaches indicate. 2. Synthetic oils keep getting better and better allowing longer and longer intervals between oil changes.
As for pictures of oil sludge and the like, the pictures shown earlier in this thread leave the impression that that particular engine was run very hard (some of that oil shows signs of being richously cooked). In my research, no sources that I came across recommended full period extended oil changes for cars that are run very hard or cars that do nothing but stop-and-go driving.
Audi forums I've been involved with in the past ran these same discussions. Lab tests were done on synthetic oils after 7,500 miles. They came back pretty good. I hope someone on this forum is lab study oriented and will run some sequenced oil tests (5,000, 10,000, 15,000 mile intervals for instance) on their R56 (personally I'd like to see it done on the S because of the turbo - turbos run hot). As far as the R53 is concerned, one Mobil 1 site I came across claims they ran 15,000 mile interval oil changes on an R53 S with no real degradation in their oil (stayed within spec).
Until I hear some horror stories that convince me otherwise, I'm going to go with once a year oil change intervals (I drive less than 15,000 miles/year). I'm going to trust them on this, at least for now.
As for pictures of oil sludge and the like, the pictures shown earlier in this thread leave the impression that that particular engine was run very hard (some of that oil shows signs of being richously cooked). In my research, no sources that I came across recommended full period extended oil changes for cars that are run very hard or cars that do nothing but stop-and-go driving.
Audi forums I've been involved with in the past ran these same discussions. Lab tests were done on synthetic oils after 7,500 miles. They came back pretty good. I hope someone on this forum is lab study oriented and will run some sequenced oil tests (5,000, 10,000, 15,000 mile intervals for instance) on their R56 (personally I'd like to see it done on the S because of the turbo - turbos run hot). As far as the R53 is concerned, one Mobil 1 site I came across claims they ran 15,000 mile interval oil changes on an R53 S with no real degradation in their oil (stayed within spec).
Until I hear some horror stories that convince me otherwise, I'm going to go with once a year oil change intervals (I drive less than 15,000 miles/year). I'm going to trust them on this, at least for now.
I don't know for sure but I am sure it has some truth in it to an extent.
Ummm..., have you forgotten the oil filter? It's there to take care of the suspended solids. The dispersants are there to hold the soilds in suspension just long enough to hit the filter, not to hold it there for the life of the oil. Yes, the dispersants can be "used up", but they will not scrimp on the amount of dispersant when formulating an expensive synthetic oil.
All Manufactures make more than one grade of oil. Better check the Euro rating for for ACEA A3/B3 specs. Bmw dealer oil is a great value in the market place for syn oil. Oil has improved greatly over the years, but I still change mine at 5000mi. The filter only sees about half the oil pumped in a cycle as it is positioned in a parallel configuration in the system. Lots of room for particles in suspension to attach bearings and such. I've been a Tech for 40 years. Just my 2 cents worth.



