R55 :: Clubman Talk (2008+) Discussions revolving around the extended wheelbase Clubman (R55) model.

R55 Motor replacement for Clubman non turbo

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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 09:11 AM
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Motor replacement for Clubman non turbo

Hello everyone. I recently bought a 2008 Clubman manual non-S with a seized motor (head gasket failure). I've always wanted to get a mini so I thought this would be a great opportunity to just swap out the motor. But doing a lot of research I cannot for the life of me find anywhere what year and model motors will directly bolt up and plug right in. If anyone could help me out with this, I'd be greatful!
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 09:08 PM
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You want an 07-10 N12 Engine as that will be a direct bolt in and work with all your existing wiring and sensors.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 07:05 PM
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+1

also, before buying an engine, run your tests on it first. if the engine is seized, I think most likely the vacuum pump seized and snapped the exhaust bolt causing the chain and sprocket to fall. So, just take the valve cover off and take a look...sometimes people diagnose a seized engine to HG when in reality is could be a physical/mechanical restriction.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 09:32 PM
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Thanks for letting me know! I'll definitely take a look and let you know what what I find. Also worse case senario if I do have to buy a motor, I've seen some that range from $1800-$2200. Is this pretty much what I'll have to pay for one of them? Or is there any places beside Craigslist or ebay that might you or whoever might know where I could find one for a good deal? Thanks
 
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Old Aug 31, 2018 | 04:55 AM
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http://www.car-part.com/

you could also buy from the auction with a rear end damage and take the engine and still part out parts
 
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 03:43 PM
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Unless the engine has high mileage I would probably pull the original engine apart and fix it.Buying used engines can be a crap shoot.Look for simple things like the vacuem pump.or a timing chain problem.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 02:29 PM
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Ok, so I took off the valve cover today and this is what I found..... I tried turning the cams with a couple wrenches and could only turn it a 1/4 turn. The previous owner told me the head gasket went bad and and coolant got into the crank case which is why you see the milky oil crap everywhere. The cam gear looks okay and I would also say the vacuum pump. If you guys see anything abnormal let me know. Thanks for your comments.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 02:38 PM
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Right off the bat, I see the timing off! Please verify.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 07:14 AM
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Pull the spark plugs and try to turn it again.Might be hydrolocked.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 03:44 PM
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So I was able to mess with the motor a little bit today. So I was able to spin the crank with a wrench no problem. Everything spun fine. So trying to address if the timing. Will the timing marks be on the cam gears? If it is the marks on the timing gears, then it is definitely off.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 03:51 PM
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here are the cam gears.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bcoakley
here are the cam gears.
The gears dont have markings. But there are some writings on the middle of the shafts. Also, look at where the locking tool would site.

Check this write up,

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r56-cooper-hat/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-31-camshaft/D7Jnp1uz
 
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 07:34 PM
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With all that water on there I would probably pull it and tear it down and clean the parts in solvent to stop the rust.You might find bent valves .I would guess that if the head gasket was changed somebody probably did not check the head with a straight edge and it’s warped.This is all common stuff handled by a good machine shop .Have the head fixed.If the cylinders in the block look good just have the machine shop run a deglaze home through them .Get some rings,bearings,Timing chain set and gaskets and you have a new engine.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by oldxr
With all that water on there I would probably pull it and tear it down and clean the parts in solvent to stop the rust.You might find bent valves .I would guess that if the head gasket was changed somebody probably did not check the head with a straight edge and it’s warped.This is all common stuff handled by a good machine shop .Have the head fixed.If the cylinders in the block look good just have the machine shop run a deglaze home through them .Get some rings,bearings,Timing chain set and gaskets and you have a new engine.
Do you know roughly how much that might cost?
 
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 11:03 AM
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Depends on the damage to the cylinder head.I assemble my own engines but I farm out my machine shop work.You can shop Rock Auto for the parts .Just having a block hot tanked and honed is usually $100-&200 dollars.If the used engines were cheap I would use 1.But at the price they get for Mini engines I would rather build my own .With the known problems with timing chains and oil consumption I would have a hard time trusting a used engine over an engine that I did my own minor rebuild on.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by oldxr
Depends on the damage to the cylinder head.I assemble my own engines but I farm out my machine shop work.You can shop Rock Auto for the parts .Just having a block hot tanked and honed is usually $100-&200 dollars.If the used engines were cheap I would use 1.But at the price they get for Mini engines I would rather build my own .With the known problems with timing chains and oil consumption I would have a hard time trusting a used engine over an engine that I did my own minor rebuild on.
I agree. I was thinking about buying a used one, but Im starting to think a rebiuld will be better. Looking around, I can't find an engine for less than $2000, so I feel like I'd come out cheaper just having the motor rebuilt and sourcing my own parts.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 06:50 AM
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Those are actually markings for the vanos gear itself no the timing of the car.


These need to be aligned in such a way that the round edge is at the bottom and the straight edges on the sides and top. No only that, the crank need to be 90 degree BTDC. There is a lock pin that goes into the flywheel to lock it in place.



you can do a coolant system pressure test to determine if it is indeed a head gasket or some freeze plug came loose. also, the oil filter housing could be a place where the two fluids meet.
 
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