Go Back  North American Motoring > 2nd Generation MINIs > R55 :: Clubman Talk (2008+)
How To Replace the Left Barn Door Lock On The 2007–2014 Clubman >

R55 How To Replace the Left Barn Door Lock On The 2007–2014 Clubman

R55 :: Clubman Talk (2008+) Discussions revolving around the extended wheelbase Clubman (R55) model.

R55 How To Replace the Left Barn Door Lock On The 2007–2014 Clubman

  #1  
Old 06-21-2016, 08:21 AM
bratling's Avatar
bratling
bratling is offline
6th Gear
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: North of Boston, MA
Posts: 1,518
Received 83 Likes on 74 Posts
How To Replace the Left Barn Door Lock On The 2007–2014 Clubman

A common failure condition of the 2007–2014 MINI Clubman is the left rear split-door doesn’t open — the latch just doesn’t unlatch. Sometimes it will unlatch, but then won’t re-lock itself when you push the door shut.

This turns out to be a very fast and simple fix! I’ve put together these instructions with diagrams (from the official MINI parts diagrams courtesy of realoem-dot-com). I think they’re complete but please let me know if anything is unclear or missing so I can improve them.


Parts and Tools Needed
  • Lock for Split Door, Left – MINI Part number 51247167498 – this costs about $50. (It’s basically an overpriced solenoid.)
  • Torx 30 driver — that’s the six-point star bit that BMW loves and are used throughout the MINI. If you do much on your MINI you should just get a full set of Torx keys.
  • Thin flathead screwdriver for prying. (A trim panel tool works even better. I think ECS sells them for like $5.)

Overview

The split door lock is actually pretty easy to access. You will need to pull up the plastic panel that lies across the rear door opening. That will get you access to the two Torx bolts that secure the lock to the car’s body, so you can remove it. Then you just slide it out through a convenient hole in the body made for the purpose, then unplug it from the wire connector. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

EDIT: if the door is stuck shut, you need to open it. This thread can help: How to manually open the rear barn doors

Step by Step
  1. Remove the Loading Sill Cover, which is part #9 on this diagram. it’s held in place with four plastic expanding rivets on the inside of the luggage compartment, and three plastic clips that we’ll just pull out. <br>
    1. Fold the flat-load floor back out of the way. Remove anything you have stored under it, as you’ll need to lift the actual bottom floor panel later.
      Remove the expanding rivets. Use your flathead screwdriver (or trim tool) to carefully pull out the center pin. (This will allow the shaft of the rivet to un-spread itself.) Then use the flathead screwdriver to pry underneath the edge of the rivet and work it out. This will require some force, so don’t be shy.
    2. Remove the bottom floor panel (part number 9 on the diagram), then with your fingers pull the bottom edge of the Loading Sill Cover (part number 7) forward the front of the car (away from you if you are standing outside the back of the car). You’ll need to clear the metal tie-downs that are secured to the car’s body. The cover is stiff but somewhat flexible; you won’t break it and you will need to use some force.
    3. As soon as you have cleared the tie-downs, shift to pulling straight up on the Loading Sill Cover. Pull hard. No, harder. The three plastic clips that hold it in position should pop free. (Sometimes they come loose from the cover and stay in the car. Pry them out with a screwdriver or trim tool, and slide them back into their slots on the Loading Sill Cover.) The hard part is now done!
  2. Remove and replace the lock mechanism. Here’s a fresh diagram for you: <br>
    1. Unscrew the two Torx bolts (part number 2 on this diagram). They’re slightly stiff but shouldn’t be too hard to remove.
    2. The lock mechanism is now free. Reach into the body through an opening right behind it, and pull it out.
    3. Disconnect the wire harness connector. Throw out the P.O.S. lock that failed on you.
    4. Plug the new lock into the wire harness. Screw the lock mechanism back in; there is some side-to-side adjustability but I found just putting it dead center had it lined up correctly with the door. Tighten the bolts very firmly, but don’t go insane; these aren’t wheel bolts!
    5. Test the lock! Ensure the split door is correctly caught and locks, and that it unlocks when you squeeze the handle.
  3. Put it back together:
    1. Re-install the Loading Sill Cover. Make sure the three white plastic clips are slid into their slots inside the Loading Sill Cover. Put in position, line them up into their holes and press down. Tip: To make the clips pop into position, you’ll probably have to give them each a good, solid whack with your hand. (The clips rarely break; if they do, they cost about $0.70 each.)
    2. Re-install the four expanding rivets. Remove the center pins from the expanding rivets. Push each rivet back into position, then insert the center pin and push it down.
    3. Make sure the rubber weather seal is OVER the Loading Sill Cover, not underneath it. I used a trim tool to lift the rubber seal up over the edge of the loading sill.
    4. Put the floors back. This is ludicrously simple, so I’m not describing it.
  4. Enjoy a cool, refreshing beverage of your choice as you admire your handiwork.
 

Last edited by bratling; 06-21-2016 at 07:52 PM.
  #2  
Old 06-21-2016, 10:02 AM
ECSTuning's Avatar
ECSTuning
ECSTuning is online now
Platinum Sponsor
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wadsworth, Ohio
Posts: 28,130
Received 607 Likes on 583 Posts
Well done.

Here is the part 51247167498

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51247167498/



 
__________________

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | Local Part Pickup Now Available
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

Last edited by ECSTuning; 10-25-2017 at 07:14 AM.
  #3  
Old 06-22-2016, 06:11 AM
grussell
grussell is offline
4th Gear
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
The dealer I bought ours from replaced that latch when we purchased it.
 
  #4  
Old 08-18-2016, 11:23 AM
WarEagle
WarEagle is offline
1st Gear
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by bratling View Post
A common failure condition of the 2007–2014 MINI Clubman is the left rear split-door doesn’t open — the latch just doesn’t unlatch. Sometimes it will unlatch, but then won’t re-lock itself when you push the door shut.
My left rear split door will not latch closed anymore. Is there anyway to test to make sure it is the latch/solenoid that is broken and not the handle release trigger? The right door still latches properly and the handle release makes a solenoid noise every time I press it. The left side no longer makes a noise. I'm trying to avoid buying the $50 latch when the issue is in the handle. Thanks
 
  #5  
Old 08-21-2016, 10:51 AM
bratling's Avatar
bratling
bratling is offline
6th Gear
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: North of Boston, MA
Posts: 1,518
Received 83 Likes on 74 Posts
The symptoms you describe, of the left hand door not making a noise when you squeeze the handle, are the same ones I was experiencing. It also was an intermittent problem for a year or two before it finally gave up the ghost entirely, prompting me to replace it.
 
  #6  
Old 08-25-2016, 04:28 PM
WarEagle
WarEagle is offline
1st Gear
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by bratling View Post
The symptoms you describe, of the left hand door not making a noise when you squeeze the handle, are the same ones I was experiencing. It also was an intermittent problem for a year or two before it finally gave up the ghost entirely, prompting me to replace it.
Just replaced my latch and thanks to your how-to I had the right part, it took me 15 minutes, and my doors are working again. Thank you so much!

And shout out to ECS Tuning for having the part with free shipping and cheaper than my local Mini dealership could order it.
 
The following users liked this post:
bratling (03-29-2019)
  #7  
Old 08-25-2016, 05:54 PM
bratling's Avatar
bratling
bratling is offline
6th Gear
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: North of Boston, MA
Posts: 1,518
Received 83 Likes on 74 Posts
Originally Posted by WarEagle View Post
Just replaced my latch and thanks to your how-to I had the right part, it took me 15 minutes, and my doors are working again. Thank you so much!

And shout out to ECS Tuning for having the part with free shipping and cheaper than my local Mini dealership could order it.
Awesome! Glad it was a quick and simple task! I think it took longer to write up than to do. And I
 
  #8  
Old 08-31-2016, 01:41 PM
ECSTuning's Avatar
ECSTuning
ECSTuning is online now
Platinum Sponsor
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wadsworth, Ohio
Posts: 28,130
Received 607 Likes on 583 Posts
Originally Posted by WarEagle View Post
Just replaced my latch and thanks to your how-to I had the right part, it took me 15 minutes, and my doors are working again. Thank you so much!

And shout out to ECS Tuning for having the part with free shipping and cheaper than my local Mini dealership could order it.

Welcome
 
__________________

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | Local Part Pickup Now Available
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
  #9  
Old 09-22-2017, 10:40 AM
Lance Lanagan
Lance Lanagan is offline
Neutral
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you!

I'd been having a problem where the right door would (intermittently) not latch shut. It would just kind of bounce off the latch. I would click the FOB again as if to open the door, and then it would close. Then, last week, the left door wouldn't catch. I found your thread, problem solved and all is well again. Super easy! Thanks for your post!
 
  #10  
Old 03-24-2019, 07:28 PM
scott13
scott13 is offline
2nd Gear
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 101
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Thanks bratling for your instructions. My passenger side barn door lock started to fail (couldn't open manually at all and could only unlock with the fob for a short time after the whole car was locked) so I ordered both locks from ECS Tuning. I wanted to replace the driver's side one preemptively as I could see that if that lock failed completely it would take some destruction of the loading sill cover from inside to spring it manually. The passenger side one can be sprung open if necessary by pulling the barn door inside panel away above the lock and reaching in with a narrow screwdriver. Both went in smoothly with the driver's side being a bit trickier since that loading sill cover was a struggle. But like you said, keep pulling and you will not break it. The outer two white clips stayed with the body for me but must be pried out and replaced on the sill cover. It pops back on a lot easier than getting it off.
 
The following 2 users liked this post by scott13:
bratling (03-29-2019), ECSTuning (03-25-2019)

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: