So I picked up a NM Torque Arm Bushing the other day, but i'm having a heckuva time figuring out how to safely jack up the front end of my Clubman.

I know about the front jack points, and I lifted the mini with a floor jack via the front left jack point, but where do i put the jacks after I get one side up? Also is it safe to use a floor jack to lift up via the jack points? I understand that these points are prone to break and or slip.


Thanks in advance for the feedback.

-James

 

There was another thread on this problem and no one has answered that question yet.

I myself was looking for a place to put actually 4 jack stands on the Clubman and did not get anyone to answer. I guess you will have to look under and see if you see any sturdy support spots and do it the old fashion way.

I would not recommend the 4 jack points on the edges as it does not look safe. Not worth the risk of having this slip and fall. Get some cement blocks as safety cushions if your going under. Not worth it.

 

BlimeyCabrio has it all down. You need to peruse his entire blog but start here for the solution to your challenge.
http://www.blimeycabrio.com/?p=76 I've done it exactly like he shows and it works great.

Another good source of information on all things MINI is at SooperCooperInfo.com

 

BlimeyCabrio's method works for the Clubman as well. I've been doing it this way for the past 2+ years with my Clubman. Although since I installed the NM Springs, I must first drive onto 2x4s to get the MINI high enough off the ground to get the jack/2x4 combo in place.

 

Awesome! This is exactly what i was looking for! Do you think i would be ok just jacking one side up?

Also do you jack up all 4 the same way for oil changes?

 

I put up just one side while rotating tires. I folowed Blimey's direction closely the first time I tried it for painting the calipers and disk caps.

For oil changing, I suppose that method would work to put stands under just the front jack points to get under the engine. I don't know if the pan would drain well that way though. Probably need it level. I would not be comfotable getting under a car even with floor stands and I'm too chintzy to pop for the full blown ramp lift so I let the guys in the business handle that task.

 

My next door neighbor has a pneumatic garage lift, from an old gas station, in his shop. He lets me use it any time I want. I do spread out the load, by placing 2X4s on top of the lift.

Dave

 

​​​​​​I followed Blimey's method, the 2x4s are flushed between the two jack points with 2* 3 tons stands. As a safety measure, I put one under front end subframe, but the last one wasn't even resting on the 3rd stand, so there's no way the frame was resting "twisted". I took a drive after the day was done. The handling seems off, I don't think I damage anything but how did the alignment get messed up with one side jacked up?

 

What work was done on the car while jacked up? That might be the source of handling change vs. the actual jacking.

 

I tried loosening the motor mount n install NM kit. The bolt is seized, I sprayed WR40 on the front bolt and on the down pipe clamps bolt for a near future DP upgrade, that was it. The bolts didn't move at all. I took my revenge on popping a Heineken and I felt much better even nothing much got done today.

 

I have been swapping wheel sets during every spring / fall. Lifting the midpoint of both lift points by the side of the car up with a 2x4 on floor jack just like the picture and not using stands. As gentle as I can be, the alignment is always off for the past two years, what am I doing wrong?

 

I don’t think it’s anything you’re doing wrong, I think the Mini is just sensitive to tire wear patterns. My car has been driving straight all summer so far, but last weekend I rotated the tires and now she tracks a little bit to the left. I think I just need to go out and drive a little more aggressively to wear the tires in shape…

 

Whenever you rotate your tires, you should Cross your fronts to the rear, and bring the rears straight forward. This allows a better wear on the tires. The reason for crossing the fronts allows any alignment issues that cause any odd wear that could cause a pull later, by allowing the rear to wear the tires back into an even pattern. Never cross the rears coming to the front, or you can cause a pull that way.
This comes from my step father who has done alignments and front end work on cars for over 40 years and was a top mechanic in his area of expertise... It's been a practice that's proven to work out well.
Also, be aware and be sure the tires are the same exact size. Some cars do have wider wheel in the rear than the front. In that case, you just can't to rotations. :/

 

Also, also, be sure your tires are not directional when crossing tires in rotation. My tires are directional tread pattern, so I can only rotate same side front to back.

 

Good point. I knew I was missing something to add and this was it. Very important to follow this.

 

For any rookies discovering this thread, BlimryCabrio's blog no longer exists. Kinda sad 'cause he ha a lot of cool stuff in it.