Ok in the first post it is worded:

I was assuming parts and labor were involved in a brake job quote. Dont get me wrong Im not trying to argue with anyone thats just how I perceived it...

I rather people tell me what I am doing wrong than what I am doing right, its easier to make improvements that way

Either way, if you can do them yourself or find a buddy that can help you... just go get a 12 pack, have a buddy come over and have at it on a day that you have no other plans and do it in a warm garage.

BEATNUT

 

is the PERFECT work to start getting your "sea legs" for car work. The job is not hard, and there are how tos all over the place.

Crack lugs.
Lift front end.
Remove front wheels.
Pop caliper spring using a flat bladed screwdriver.
Using a metric allen wrench, remove caliper slide pins.
Remove caliper from frame.
USing tool of your choice, compress the piston. I used a c-clamp in the past. Harbor Freight sells a kit for disc brakes that does the rears as well...
Wipe of sliding surfaces, and lube with high temp moly grease.
install new pads.
remount caliper.
Instally springgy thinggy.
press brake peddel a few times to expand the piston.
On to the next one.

For the rears, there's a difference in that the rear parking brake cable just makes things a bit more inflexible, but doable.Also the piston needs to turn during compression. The harbor freight tool does this. If you use a c-clamp, you may have to get it turning with channel locks.

If you want to add a rotor swap, I don't rmember if you need to take the caliper frame off, but there is one torx flat-head screw that holds the cailper on. Sometimes this gets a bit stuck so when you get it off, use some anti-sieze on the threads.

As far as turning vs replacing, I've always turned rotors. They have a minimum thickness for a reason, and if you're above that, surfacing an older rotor seems like a better idea than putting fresh pads onto it! No one has ever explained to me why turning a rotor is bad, if you don't overly thin them.

I'd reccomend one addition to the stock set up. Get the Tyrolsport (helix and a couple other places sell them) metal caliper bushings. These replace the rubber ones that come stock, will keep the caliper in better alignment, giving more even pad wear and longer life.

Have at it, if you don't have a friend near by and get stuck, post a help with brake change thread, and the answers will pour in.

For anyone who wants to work on thier own car, brake jobs are fast, easy and inexpensive.

FWIW, I went through the same crap on my MDX. Acura wanted to charge $600 for the job. I asked what the costs were. $200 for front pads, $200 for rear pads, and $200 to TURN THE REAR ROTORS! I actually laughed at the service tech, indicating I suspected crack abuse! I got all pads for $185, turned then for $30 at a local parts store, and was back on the road with complete brake job in under two hours work.

Matt

 

The last thing I ever want to do on this forum or in person is to offend anyone. If my wording is too harsh, I apologize to anyone offended. In one of my jobs, I am a teacher of adults. I constantly have students come to me and tell me that they are a 'visual learner, and can not read directions and understand what they are supposed to do'. I have them sit down and actually read whatever it is that they are having trouble with out loud in front of me (we do this privately). All of a sudden, it is clear as a bell to them. They had not tried to read it and figure it out. My point is that a lot of people don't try to figure anything out. They just assume it is too hard and beyond their capabilities and just don't try.

As stated by several people in this thread.... give it a try... you'll get all the help you ever wanted from this great group of NAMers and when it is all over, sit back and grin knowing that you kept several hundred dollars in your pocket.

You won't have to drive a long way to a MINI or other dealership, and either wait, or get a ride to and from a couple of times.

Oh yea, buy yourself a nice large container of Orange Gritty GoJo and a bristle brush for your hands. I have never been able to do anything with mechanics gloves on.

I'm YD and I approve this message.

 

Gee look what I started. I just thought that $500+ for a brake job was alot. I paid $70 for the brakes on my 03 accord.

 

I just bought front Zimmerman rotors from autohausaz.com for 60.00 each and Mintex front pads for 50. from M7. Zimmerman is as good a oem and the Mintex is oem or Jurid pads on some cars. It took me 1 hour flat to do both fronts after the car was in the air. If you are not experienced it will probably take you 2 or 3 hrs. A independent shop would probably charge 2 or 3 hours labor at 90.00 per hr.

 

$540 is whacked and I agree it's a easy chore to get your feet wet on general maintenance issues

Just to clean up this excellent write up a bit............

Watch the channel locks on the back pistons. Do not scratch the piston sides as this will cause a leak in the future. Use the tool or try the needle nose pliers in the slot method.

The caliper support brackets are bolted onto the hub, 16mm I think, the rotor is held in place with the one torx screw (T-50). Problem is alum screws and steel rotors the screw is only to hold the rotor in place until the lugs can do there thing. Anti-seize is a great idea, also an Impact and a little Kroil-Oil will do wonders to get them out.

I'm from the don't turn the rotors unless you've got a gouge or a warp camp. I just degloss them with some 80 grit on a DA.

Find a MINI friend with a tool box and a garage and check the local clubs

 

OK to all those who told me to do it myself... While I would have done that in my earlier years, well i'm only 37 but... I just dont have the time. with 2 kids a reef fish tank ( I spend alot of time staring) and a house thats always a mess...It would take me a saturday to get it done and thats just a saturday I dont have anymore.

A saturday spent fixing the mini is one day lost driving her.