Hello all. My 2006 MCS 6 speed Getrag with 180k miles was having issues getting into gear that wasn't fixed by bleeding the system, a couple times. So in the middle of doing the clutch job, along with all the extras since I'm in there (ball joints, supercharger service, crank position sensor o-ring, water pump and flange, radiator fan resistor, oil pan gasket, anti-sway bar bushings, real main seal, treat and paint rusty parts, etc.) I discovered the throwout bearing was wrecked and has created wear marks on the release fork. Since my Mini was built in Oct. '06, it has the fork that is bolted on the shaft, so I assumed removing the bolt would allow me to slide the old fork off and put on the new fork. However, after removing the bolt, I have not been able to move the fork, at all. It is really stuck on there. I sprayed some stuff on it and pried on it with some large channel locks, with no luck. I put the outside part of the shaft in a vice and tried to twist the fork on the shaft to hopefully get it unstuck, with no movement whatsoever. I have not found any posts or info on the Internet about this being an issue, so I am not sure what is up with my clutch release fork. I am the original owner (actually ordered it while I was stationed in Germany) and the clutch has never been done. Everything else has gone smoothly as per instructions from the Mod Mini guy and other info I have researched prior to starting the project. Can anyone provide info on how to get this thing off the shaft without damaging the transmission case? I have the new part and it appears it will slide right on, so all I need to do is remove the old one. Ideas I have that I have not tried yet is putting some heat to it, cutting with either a hack saw or other cutting tool. I obviously do not want to damage anything.

Thanks to anyone that can help.

 

Your shift fork looks like this picture below, no?



I has been a couple of years since I took this picture. If I remember correctly, I also had difficulty with the shift fork. I seem to recall having to tap on it with a hammer after I removed that bolt to get it to move so that I could replace the bushings, input shaft seal and release bearing.

 

A few pics or video might be helpful so we can see what you're doing or not doing. The shaft should slide easily.

When you place the shaft in a vice, I presume you took the top portion of the transmission housing off? Want to make sure we understand the issue so you don't damage anything. BTW, if you're in there already, you might want to consider dropping in an LSD. Super easy to do and not terribly expensive. Great bang for the buck.

Here's a link to my build thread. Lots of pics and info that may be useful. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ome-ideas.html

 

Thank you all for the replies. I was able to get the fork off by borrowing a cutoff tool and cutting almost all the way through it. I was then able to slowly rotate it back and forth with some vice grips and slowly work it off. It looked like it had some rust on it. I was able to slide the new fork on super easy and along with the new shaft bushings, get it put back together. Got the trans back on the engine and am still in the process of getting everything back on. It was weird since everything else came off like it should.

Thanks again,

 

Wow. Never heard of an issue like that. Post some pics of the rust and the issues so it's documented as a reference for the future.

 

Here are a couple pics trying to show the bit of rust on the inside of the shaft. Also a pic of the inside of the housing showing all the nicks caused by the throwout bearing pieces whenever it came apart.

The cut marks on the side are where i used the cutting tool


You can see the wear on the fork here, as well as the throwout bearing sitting off to the side.

 

All good now?

 

Final update. Got everything put back together. Had to take two times to get the shift linkage spring things lined up right, but they snapped right into place on try number two. The rear brake line on the driver's side had some severe rust so I replaced that with the nickle copper stuff. Super easy to bend into shape. Took a second time to get the bubble flare correct so it didn't leak. All put back together, road tested, and no leaks and all operational. Taking it easy on the new Valeo clutch, but it feels really good. Way lighter than original, so it feels weird, but it shifts great in all gears, so I trust it's all good.
Here's a list of parts I replaced since I had it all apart:
Valeo clutch kit
supercharger oil
oil pan gasket
inner and outer ball joints
anti-sway bar bushings
both hoses from power steering reservoir
radiator fan resistor
crank position sensor o-ring
serpentine belt
driver's anti-sway bar end link
water pump and flange
supercharger to intake gasket
cleaned up some rust
I think that is everything.

 

Thanks for the update.