Waiting in a parking lot, AC was on (almost full blast) went into gear to pull into a spot and realize the car had just died.

Turned off AC, killed the ignition, restarted and drove just fine.

Where do I start? Crank pulley? Alternator? Something else? I was having cold start issues but it seems that’s fine as long as I let the pump prime first. Battery, alternator and starter was tested and all came back fine. Tried pulling codes and nothing popped up.

It was a hotter day (~101°+) so not sure if that has anything to do with it? Only had the car about 3 months so not sure what has been replaced in the past.

 

Does it die now whenever you use the AC? The only thing I can think of is that your compressor is seized and binding the pulley, so once it's activated it screws with the drive belt and stalls the motor? Interested in other thoughts.

 

Could've been just a case of fuel cavitation caused by the hot weather while sitting at idle on hot pavement. I wouldn't be too concerned unless it happens again under normal circumstances.

 

this is my hope. It hasn’t happened before but I also haven’t really cranked the AC full on and driven it in this hot of weather. Usually try to avoid it bc I have better options to drive when temperatures are triple digits

 

this was just the only case. I drove it home with the AC on and it was just fine but I didn’t crank the AC to full blast either.

 

I'm still thinking fuel filter change (if it hasn't already been)

 

I am just posting so I can keep track of this thread.


Edit: Thanks for the updates.

 

Still haven’t tried to diagnose this as it hasn’t happened again. I don’t drive the car daily so hard to say as well + it’s been very hot here (108°+ for a couple weeks now)

Convinced it was just overused of it being very hot, sitting in the sun all day and then driving it having the AC full on while idling in a parking lot.

 

All the ideas above are sound, I would go one step further and pull the belt off the car and check the crank pulley. I had a similar issue some time ago. I was idling with the a/c on and it was hot out. I went to leave and the car died. I popped the hood, check around and all looked good. Called tow truck to be safe. When they arrived, car started up fine with no issue. Towed it home to be safe. Started fine at home but "felt" off. While observing the pulleys with the car running the crank pulley seemed to have the slightest wobble. I removed the crank pulley (it was the stock one) and I discovered that the rubber inside has come apart and the pulley would spin and catch and the car would run but not well. It was a bit of a shock to me as I didn't think the car would run, but it did.

I replaced with a solid unit from Alta. (Both my R53 have these and have over 150k miles with no issues)

Anyway, just an idea.

 

My 2003 MINI has this issue. I replaced the below part and that helped tremendously - I think I need to replace my throttle body also.
Mini Cooper Fuel Tank Breather Vent Valve 1390757208602-08 R50 R52 R53

 

oh this is helpful; I will look into it.

Update: so the last couple of days on very short trips, the car just died during idle. No stutter or choking, just a smooth idle and then lights came on and died.

It has been very hot the last few days it sits in the sun while I worked (107°+) so is the fuel filter the next check? Is it best to do the pump at the same time? I’m somewhat mechanically inclined but also don’t want to get fuel everywhere in the car even though I know the fuel filter is like an initiation

 

Also to add, I’ve driven the car on weekends for longer distances and running errands around town and it hasn’t happened, even with the AC working (not full blast)

I am trying to find a local shop to see if they can check the fuel pressure but I am just at a loss on the random “dies” it has had intermittently. I kind of wish it was consistent enough so I can track it down but this just happens randomly.

 

Just a suggestion:
If you are going to change out your fuel filter or pump; just wait until your down between a quarter to a half a tank. A quarter tank would be less gas to contend with and the possibility of getting gas in the carpet.
Just cover as much of the interior with Visqueen or similar plastic sheeting....a container (a 2lb plastic coffee container is what I used to set the old filter in), and lots of rags.
I followed this DIY filter change .

 

Great suggestion(s), thanks! I saw this and a couple other videos. It seems very straight forward and simple to me I’m just paranoid about the spills


I did call a few auto shops around that specialize in MINI and BMW and they all told me the same thing: they can test for fuel pressure and the pump but if there’s no codes and the car is running fine when brought it, the pressure will read as fine so they didn’t want me to pay for something to tell them it’s ok.

Some pages on FB suggested I try a TBA reset, and that it’s likely going to be Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter or MAP/TMAP but I also don’t want to start throwing parts at it either. I can start with the filter and the TBA reset since those are relatively cheap and/or free and go from there.

Don’t know if these shots help but this is the “live data” from my scanner if it means anything (ignition on but car turned off)

 

Well I finally got a code to come up with a CEL: P0455

I have a list of things to do just because I feel like it could use it:

fuel filter
spark plugs
oil change and filter

this new code now seems gas cap as that light sometimes comes on but also the EVAP Purge Valve? Any other ideas that would cause the code?

 

Did you ever check the harmonic balancer?
Also, if you're doing the fuel filter it might be a good idea to send the injectors out to be cleaned and flow matched. There are several places that do this. Runs about $12-15 per injector.
This way you're ruling out most of the fuel system.

 

 

So I got the issue(s) sorted and fixed. I can’t say exactly what did it but it seemed like a combination of things.

Fuel Filter changed - I think it was the original. It looked battered and super black, very dirty and the gas by it was like sewage.

Spark plugs and wires were changed - more as a precaution bc I don’t know the history on maintenance of what’s been done. Doing so though I found out that the coil pack was bad - Post #3 was corroded so I got a new one but the original bolts didn’t fit since they were sleeved went back and ordered a Delphi one on Amazon (since AutoZone wanted double the price and a week+ to get it shipped to me) and thankfully that one can use the original bolts

EVAP Purge Valve - heard a ticking noise from it so I got a new one swapped in.


Now the car starts on a dime, no need to wait for the pump to prime, no rough idle, misfire or stalls at stop lights, etc.

After reading some more I guess post #3 is prone to corrosion on the coil packs? Weird things.

Corroded post - probably a reason why I got inconsistent rough idles and couldn’t start without a few attempts

Delphi replacement that reuses the old sleeved bolts in case anyone else wanted to know - $33 on Amazon straight from Delphi as well

 

Happy times.
New parts can't hurt...
Glad you got it all sorted out