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Well it’s been a week since shoulder surgery, needless to say I won’t be able to finish this until I can use my right arm to get those bolts drilled out for the clutch slave. I am still waiting on Jan from RMW to send over my tune so I can load it. That I can do. Here some pics from the hardware I took home lol. Dr says 12 weeks min in sling. Sucks but, at least it will be fixed and I can back to lifting in the gym again.
.....Here some pics from the hardware I took home lol. Dr says 12 weeks min in sling. Sucks but, at least it will be fixed and I can back to lifting in the gym again.
Hey, I have some of those wall anchors left over after I installed my curtain rods, if you need any extras
Take care of yourself. Hope you make a speedy recovery.
Got the new tune from Jan, dowloading it today and installing it, the most I can do right now due to shoulder. Wish I could start it lmao. I dont know anyone that works on cars I trust to come over to help finish the install. Maybe I can at least go get all the coolant and brake/clutch, and gear oil that I will need.
Yesterday I started back on the assembly again, it's HOT af here in florida soo my guess is I lost a few pounds working out there LOL. I wasn't able to get the broken bolts out for the clutch master yet, but I did assemble the throttle body and coolant lines, all the M7 intake box and ECU. Also got the M7 strut tower brace on. Filled the transmission with fluid. Replaced the rubber fuel line on the throttle body also. I need a better air compressor to run a grinder so I can cut the bolts down flat to drill them out better, on the list for next weekend, grind down the little bit of clearance needed to fit the bigger intercooler on top to sit flat so it lines up better. Not too much more to do before I can start it up! Once I get the clutch master bolted back on, I can bleed the line, then bolt up the coolant front end and fill with fluid and bleed that, then start it.
Congrats on progress so far! Quick question since you have done this most recently, what size socket is needed for the CV nut? Biggest I have is a 30mm and that one was too small so I have to get one.
Congrats on progress so far! Quick question since you have done this most recently, what size socket is needed for the CV nut? Biggest I have is a 30mm and that one was too small so I have to get one.
32 mm and make sure you get one for an impact because those things are on there!
After doing some reading about clutch slave bleeding, I came up with this idea to compress mine, without making something up or buying the expensive tool used. It worked great. I used my crank pulley tool.
After car wouldn’t start, I have checked and double checked everything timing, to fuel pressure (which is none) to compression. Ordered a new fuel pump today. Compression is on low side, but I already knew that.
Installed new fuel pump, still no fuel pressure, took line off fuel rail had someone turn the ignition and a little fuel came out, but barley. So I disconnected the fuel line going into the filter and started the car and some fuel came out of the filter top just trickling. So todays plans are to pull the filter and inspect all onrings and lines. It has to be between those!? Now battery is dead so charging that now.
Small tip I just learned. Fill the slave cylinder from the nipple on the slave to push air back out through the reservoir. People do it the other way and it always has some air. Watched a video on this and they said doing it "backwards" resulted in no air in the line- every time. I've not tried it yet, but when the car is back together, I will be trying it out.
If you get to this before I do and attempt this option, please let us know how it works.
Small tip I just learned. Fill the slave cylinder from the nipple on the slave to push air back out through the reservoir. People do it the other way and it always has some air. Watched a video on this and they said doing it "backwards" resulted in no air in the line- every time. I've not tried it yet, but when the car is back together, I will be trying it out.
If you get to this before I do and attempt this option, please let us know how it works.
Can you please post the URL to the video. Having done it the "traditional" (fail) way, very interested in seeing this one. Wondering whether it still requires using a jig to compress the piston in its cylinder, and what device was used to fill the cylinder 'backwards' through the bleed nipple (syringe? manual oil transfer pump? etc). Thanks in advance.
To be on the safe side and get it done even faster, I wonder if one could compress the slave (as is the mini custom) AND fill from the bleeder to minimize the total amount of air in the system?
To be on the safe side and get it done even faster, I wonder if one could compress the slave (as is the mini custom) AND fill from the bleeder to minimize the total amount of air in the system?
Was wondering this as well, seems like air could still be trapped inside the slave cylinder if you didn't compress it, unless maybe you bench filled it before attaching the hard line.
Now curious whether this same method could be used with brakes...
Upon further inspection of the fuel filter after I took the cap of the filter housing the oring inside was split in two pieces, I must’ve did this during assembly maybe.
Taking the slave off to compress and bleed isn’t that hard. It was pretty easy and clutch feels new. I used a power bleeder to put 16-20psi in the lines.
Well after replacing the o rings in the fuel filter housing I now had pressure and car started right away. I let it warm up to bleed the the coolant, but thermostat isn’t opening and it temp goes up all the way, I will take that apart tomorrow, it’s brand new aluminum housing new gasket and mishimoto race thermostat.
Soo after we got her running, noticed the temp shot up fast, the temp sensor clip is broken and won’t stay on. Ordered a used one for $7. Now I have to fix the shifter linkage because the rubber swivel bushing is falling out of the cup, I really don’t want to buy a whole set of cables and box for this.
Just redid my shifter cables. Hadn't really planned to bu they were a little crusty (no bad) but I figured since the engine and exhaust are out, might as well. If you do do decide to go that route, make sure you use real oem and your build date. I found some cables super cheap (like just over $100 for the pair)- They looked the same but were not.
I ended up going through ECS and it ran just over $257 for the pair (one of them was priced matched from FCP). They shipped fast and installed perfectly into the box.
