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This morning I noticed my right front passenger wheel was splashed with grease.
Upon removing the wheel to inspect what was potentially leaking, - I kinda guessed it was a torn CV boot. What I discovered was a missing boot clamp on the inner, larger end of the (outside axle).
I pulled the Strut to gain better access.It came out super easy. However upon doing so, the axle popped out. As a temporary measure; I repacked the CV bearing with grease and secured the boot with a worm clamp.
Unfortunately, I cleaned the strut. So now I no longer had a ring of dirt as a "registration" mark. Replacing the strut back into it's lower hub became a real pain. It seemed to slide in well enough to a point. But compared to the left side, it measured a 1/2" difference = too tall. It seems that it is not seated all the way.
The lower end of the strut on driver side can be felt slightly protruding from it's lower hub. I pounded a wedge into the split for the retaining bolt to open it up. I tried using a floor jack under the knuckle to persuade the strut to seat further in. However after many tries, R&Ring, I cannot seem to get it to seat flush with the bottom edge of the lower hub. There now appears (measured) to be a 1/2" - 5/8" distance gap between the top of the tire and wheel trim compared to the driver side.
The struts are original OEM / replaced 10 years ago @45k +/- (I'm now @84k)
I just watched ModMini's video on R&Ring an OEM strut. He had pointed out a "tab" on the back side of the strut where the large, lower securing bolt goes through.
This is most likely the problem. I'll pull it back apart tomorrow and give it another shot.
As always, Helpful replies and recommendations are welcome.
Agreed, the only way the knuckle bore will allow the strut securing bolt to pass-through both knuckle tab and strut tab is with the strut fully engaged into the slot. I used combo of wedge to spread the knuckle slot slightly, a shot of penetrating spray and floor jack with wood block to slowly raise the lower control arm with knuckle onto the strut while rotating the steering lightly to help alignment. Sorry, didn't take pics of that but these show front struts assembled and then installed. I followed up by wiping any chemical residue off the rotors to prevent being transferred onto pad surfaces.
Last edited by MCS4FUN; Dec 23, 2021 at 03:17 PM.
Reason: Rotated steering, not wheel
Thanks for the confirmation on that.
Before watching the video I was almost ready to loosen up the lower bolt and take the Mini out over some moguls on a dirt bike trail to see if I could get it to seat that way....(jk)
Agreed, the only way the knuckle bore will allow the strut securing bolt to pass-through both knuckle tab and strut tab is with the strut fully engaged into the slot. I used combo of wedge to spread the knuckle slot slightly, a shot of penetrating spray and floor jack with wood block to slowly raise the lower control arm with knuckle onto the strut while rotating the steering lightly to help alignment. Sorry, didn't take pics of that but these show front struts assembled and then installed. I followed up by wiping any chemical residue off the rotors to prevent being transferred onto pad surfaces.