R50/53 Very very disappointed in my car..
could you give me that shops name in Chicago please....I'd like to look into them...
You need to decide what you want to do first. I think lots of your disappointment is likely coming from what you thought you should have power wise vs how much money you spent. If I were you
I would get the catcam 469 for starters
a wideband because narrow and doesn’t have the resolution or the speed to tune correctly. It’s 200 bucks get it. Get a new tune from Adrian.
to go further and get the most from what you have you really should go standalone and e85 for a full true flex setup. But if your not gonna go e85 then no need for standalone.
You’re short block would likely benifit from a rebuild. Get the pistons Alex designed he is the creator of the engine after all. Some molnar rods. Machine work etc. that cost me under 2k all in for parts and machine work. I did all labor. You would be surprised how much you pick up here.
finally I think your just out of the realm of what your gonna get from what you spent. I get it I know. I have so much money in my engine alone. I took that same money and put it into the wife’s b16 project and hit well over 500wbp in style safely.
with my exact setup I make 265whp drain fuel drop in 83% Ethanol and it jumps to 318whp
but it all comes down to what you want to spend. Get the cam and the wideband go from there. Your not getting over 300 for under 7-8k unless it’s a n20 shot
I would get the catcam 469 for starters
a wideband because narrow and doesn’t have the resolution or the speed to tune correctly. It’s 200 bucks get it. Get a new tune from Adrian.
to go further and get the most from what you have you really should go standalone and e85 for a full true flex setup. But if your not gonna go e85 then no need for standalone.
You’re short block would likely benifit from a rebuild. Get the pistons Alex designed he is the creator of the engine after all. Some molnar rods. Machine work etc. that cost me under 2k all in for parts and machine work. I did all labor. You would be surprised how much you pick up here.
finally I think your just out of the realm of what your gonna get from what you spent. I get it I know. I have so much money in my engine alone. I took that same money and put it into the wife’s b16 project and hit well over 500wbp in style safely.
with my exact setup I make 265whp drain fuel drop in 83% Ethanol and it jumps to 318whp
but it all comes down to what you want to spend. Get the cam and the wideband go from there. Your not getting over 300 for under 7-8k unless it’s a n20 shot
You need to decide what you want to do first. I think lots of your disappointment is likely coming from what you thought you should have power wise vs how much money you spent. If I were you
I would get the catcam 469 for starters
a wideband because narrow and doesn’t have the resolution or the speed to tune correctly. It’s 200 bucks get it. Get a new tune from Adrian.
to go further and get the most from what you have you really should go standalone and e85 for a full true flex setup. But if your not gonna go e85 then no need for standalone.
You’re short block would likely benifit from a rebuild. Get the pistons Alex designed he is the creator of the engine after all. Some molnar rods. Machine work etc. that cost me under 2k all in for parts and machine work. I did all labor. You would be surprised how much you pick up here.
finally I think your just out of the realm of what your gonna get from what you spent. I get it I know. I have so much money in my engine alone. I took that same money and put it into the wife’s b16 project and hit well over 500wbp in style safely.
with my exact setup I make 265whp drain fuel drop in 83% Ethanol and it jumps to 318whp
but it all comes down to what you want to spend. Get the cam and the wideband go from there. Your not getting over 300 for under 7-8k unless it’s a n20 shot
I would get the catcam 469 for starters
a wideband because narrow and doesn’t have the resolution or the speed to tune correctly. It’s 200 bucks get it. Get a new tune from Adrian.
to go further and get the most from what you have you really should go standalone and e85 for a full true flex setup. But if your not gonna go e85 then no need for standalone.
You’re short block would likely benifit from a rebuild. Get the pistons Alex designed he is the creator of the engine after all. Some molnar rods. Machine work etc. that cost me under 2k all in for parts and machine work. I did all labor. You would be surprised how much you pick up here.
finally I think your just out of the realm of what your gonna get from what you spent. I get it I know. I have so much money in my engine alone. I took that same money and put it into the wife’s b16 project and hit well over 500wbp in style safely.
with my exact setup I make 265whp drain fuel drop in 83% Ethanol and it jumps to 318whp
but it all comes down to what you want to spend. Get the cam and the wideband go from there. Your not getting over 300 for under 7-8k unless it’s a n20 shot
I'd like to look into that mini shop in chi and maybe if price was decent I'd pay them to drop the bigger cam in and do my tune and tune for e85 then..
is a wideband really needed that much even though inpa shows the afr's ??? Plz educate me abit
Soooooo I wanna give an update... I found my car wasn't running full boost at the track , long story short I fixed my tensioner and belt setup and that alone helped. I then had it retuned and did more datalogs when it was tuned so adriancl dialed it in very very well..
THEN lol here's the best part. Lolol I wasn't even running the 1/4mile strip the entire length NOR HAVE I EVER THERE ! LOLOL. I always thought the timer ended where the track surface changed , like an abruptly changes evenly across both lanes and the light sat 100-150ft behind that , well it ended at the light not at the change of track surface. Sooooo I was letting off and possibly even getting on my brakes at that point AND IT still ran the times it did. I learned this becausethey are installingan entire new track this year there and I had found a bunch of info on the track and talked to a few vets that go there who told me more about it.
Lol it did explain why I beat and ran with the vehicles I have when we've raced.. i WILL be getting back there come nice weather and learn to launch on the proxies too because either I'd bogg or spin too much..
THEN lol here's the best part. Lolol I wasn't even running the 1/4mile strip the entire length NOR HAVE I EVER THERE ! LOLOL. I always thought the timer ended where the track surface changed , like an abruptly changes evenly across both lanes and the light sat 100-150ft behind that , well it ended at the light not at the change of track surface. Sooooo I was letting off and possibly even getting on my brakes at that point AND IT still ran the times it did. I learned this becausethey are installingan entire new track this year there and I had found a bunch of info on the track and talked to a few vets that go there who told me more about it.
Lol it did explain why I beat and ran with the vehicles I have when we've raced.. i WILL be getting back there come nice weather and learn to launch on the proxies too because either I'd bogg or spin too much..
Soooooo I wanna give an update... I found my car wasn't running full boost at the track , long story short I fixed my tensioner and belt setup and that alone helped. I then had it retuned and did more datalogs when it was tuned so adriancl dialed it in very very well..
THEN lol here's the best part. Lolol I wasn't even running the 1/4mile strip the entire length NOR HAVE I EVER THERE ! LOLOL. I always thought the timer ended where the track surface changed , like an abruptly changes evenly across both lanes and the light sat 100-150ft behind that , well it ended at the light not at the change of track surface. Sooooo I was letting off and possibly even getting on my brakes at that point AND IT still ran the times it did. I learned this becausethey are installingan entire new track this year there and I had found a bunch of info on the track and talked to a few vets that go there who told me more about it.
Lol it did explain why I beat and ran with the vehicles I have when we've raced.. i WILL be getting back there come nice weather and learn to launch on the proxies too because either I'd bogg or spin too much..
THEN lol here's the best part. Lolol I wasn't even running the 1/4mile strip the entire length NOR HAVE I EVER THERE ! LOLOL. I always thought the timer ended where the track surface changed , like an abruptly changes evenly across both lanes and the light sat 100-150ft behind that , well it ended at the light not at the change of track surface. Sooooo I was letting off and possibly even getting on my brakes at that point AND IT still ran the times it did. I learned this becausethey are installingan entire new track this year there and I had found a bunch of info on the track and talked to a few vets that go there who told me more about it.
Lol it did explain why I beat and ran with the vehicles I have when we've raced.. i WILL be getting back there come nice weather and learn to launch on the proxies too because either I'd bogg or spin too much..
Sounds like a lot of different issues all affecting your car. Glad you've sold the problem(s) though!
Easiest way to check your improvements is to get a Dragy, go on your favorite section of road (repeatable location so that you can see improvements/changes) and do some 60-130 times. That will give you a good idea of the power you're making, taking out variables like how well you launch, tire traction, etc...
Easiest way to check your improvements is to get a Dragy, go on your favorite section of road (repeatable location so that you can see improvements/changes) and do some 60-130 times. That will give you a good idea of the power you're making, taking out variables like how well you launch, tire traction, etc...
Sounds like a lot of different issues all affecting your car. Glad you've sold the problem(s) though!
Easiest way to check your improvements is to get a Dragy, go on your favorite section of road (repeatable location so that you can see improvements/changes) and do some 60-130 times. That will give you a good idea of the power you're making, taking out variables like how well you launch, tire traction, etc...
Easiest way to check your improvements is to get a Dragy, go on your favorite section of road (repeatable location so that you can see improvements/changes) and do some 60-130 times. That will give you a good idea of the power you're making, taking out variables like how well you launch, tire traction, etc...

I would suggest 3rd gear pulls, if you HAVE to do it on the street. That will limit your speeds to a max of 80-ish or so. I would also suggest finding a remote highway on-ramp for this kind of activity.
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Feb 11, 2022 at 05:09 AM.
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R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
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