R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Very very disappointed in my car..

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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 06:53 PM
  #51  
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From: OakCreek
Originally Posted by KCinLex
Detroit Tuned may be a reference you should check out in terms of pointing in right direction. There is also a shop in the Chicago area that focuses on modifying Minis.
could you give me that shops name in Chicago please....I'd like to look into them...
 
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 07:33 PM
  #52  
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You need to decide what you want to do first. I think lots of your disappointment is likely coming from what you thought you should have power wise vs how much money you spent. If I were you

I would get the catcam 469 for starters
a wideband because narrow and doesn’t have the resolution or the speed to tune correctly. It’s 200 bucks get it. Get a new tune from Adrian.

to go further and get the most from what you have you really should go standalone and e85 for a full true flex setup. But if your not gonna go e85 then no need for standalone.

You’re short block would likely benifit from a rebuild. Get the pistons Alex designed he is the creator of the engine after all. Some molnar rods. Machine work etc. that cost me under 2k all in for parts and machine work. I did all labor. You would be surprised how much you pick up here.


finally I think your just out of the realm of what your gonna get from what you spent. I get it I know. I have so much money in my engine alone. I took that same money and put it into the wife’s b16 project and hit well over 500wbp in style safely.


with my exact setup I make 265whp drain fuel drop in 83% Ethanol and it jumps to 318whp

but it all comes down to what you want to spend. Get the cam and the wideband go from there. Your not getting over 300 for under 7-8k unless it’s a n20 shot
 
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 09:05 PM
  #53  
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From: OakCreek
Originally Posted by The Devil Z
You need to decide what you want to do first. I think lots of your disappointment is likely coming from what you thought you should have power wise vs how much money you spent. If I were you

I would get the catcam 469 for starters
a wideband because narrow and doesn’t have the resolution or the speed to tune correctly. It’s 200 bucks get it. Get a new tune from Adrian.

to go further and get the most from what you have you really should go standalone and e85 for a full true flex setup. But if your not gonna go e85 then no need for standalone.

You’re short block would likely benifit from a rebuild. Get the pistons Alex designed he is the creator of the engine after all. Some molnar rods. Machine work etc. that cost me under 2k all in for parts and machine work. I did all labor. You would be surprised how much you pick up here.


finally I think your just out of the realm of what your gonna get from what you spent. I get it I know. I have so much money in my engine alone. I took that same money and put it into the wife’s b16 project and hit well over 500wbp in style safely.


with my exact setup I make 265whp drain fuel drop in 83% Ethanol and it jumps to 318whp

but it all comes down to what you want to spend. Get the cam and the wideband go from there. Your not getting over 300 for under 7-8k unless it’s a n20 shot
I was actually looking into a more aggressive cam.. I was asking about tuning local because I would love to switch over to e85 but I don't have the tuning know how's to setup a wideband and get logs ect and tell Adrian what I need or have my wideband setup through my laptop so he could view it.. I've asked him multiple multiple times about e85 but have gotten no answer. I'd LOVE to retune with adrian but adrian has been very busy lately which is completely understandable but I really wanted to get my tuning going again befor the season ends..lol I can't even drive on my tires IF I wanted to . Darn proxies so I gotta get this going and I've sent adrian now 2x emails with no response and it's been a week..
I'd like to look into that mini shop in chi and maybe if price was decent I'd pay them to drop the bigger cam in and do my tune and tune for e85 then..
is a wideband really needed that much even though inpa shows the afr's ??? Plz educate me abit
 
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Old Nov 7, 2021 | 04:03 AM
  #54  
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wideband is required, I prefer aem, innovate is buggy and stops reading my sensors but aem with the same sensor works fine
 
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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 09:44 PM
  #55  
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From: OakCreek
Soooooo I wanna give an update... I found my car wasn't running full boost at the track , long story short I fixed my tensioner and belt setup and that alone helped. I then had it retuned and did more datalogs when it was tuned so adriancl dialed it in very very well..
THEN lol here's the best part. Lolol I wasn't even running the 1/4mile strip the entire length NOR HAVE I EVER THERE ! LOLOL. I always thought the timer ended where the track surface changed , like an abruptly changes evenly across both lanes and the light sat 100-150ft behind that , well it ended at the light not at the change of track surface. Sooooo I was letting off and possibly even getting on my brakes at that point AND IT still ran the times it did. I learned this becausethey are installingan entire new track this year there and I had found a bunch of info on the track and talked to a few vets that go there who told me more about it.
Lol it did explain why I beat and ran with the vehicles I have when we've raced.. i WILL be getting back there come nice weather and learn to launch on the proxies too because either I'd bogg or spin too much..
 
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Old Feb 6, 2022 | 09:20 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by MiniManAdam
Soooooo I wanna give an update... I found my car wasn't running full boost at the track , long story short I fixed my tensioner and belt setup and that alone helped. I then had it retuned and did more datalogs when it was tuned so adriancl dialed it in very very well..
THEN lol here's the best part. Lolol I wasn't even running the 1/4mile strip the entire length NOR HAVE I EVER THERE ! LOLOL. I always thought the timer ended where the track surface changed , like an abruptly changes evenly across both lanes and the light sat 100-150ft behind that , well it ended at the light not at the change of track surface. Sooooo I was letting off and possibly even getting on my brakes at that point AND IT still ran the times it did. I learned this becausethey are installingan entire new track this year there and I had found a bunch of info on the track and talked to a few vets that go there who told me more about it.
Lol it did explain why I beat and ran with the vehicles I have when we've raced.. i WILL be getting back there come nice weather and learn to launch on the proxies too because either I'd bogg or spin too much..
Good to finally hear. Going to be selling mine soon over on this side of state. Asking 12k 318whp e85 tvs900 fun. 11k on new super duper beefy small block build with rmw big bvh. I cringe at saying stages but it’s not the normal bvh but the…2nd stage one
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 11:41 AM
  #57  
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Sounds like a lot of different issues all affecting your car. Glad you've sold the problem(s) though!

Easiest way to check your improvements is to get a Dragy, go on your favorite section of road (repeatable location so that you can see improvements/changes) and do some 60-130 times. That will give you a good idea of the power you're making, taking out variables like how well you launch, tire traction, etc...
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 12:00 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Soul Coughing
Sounds like a lot of different issues all affecting your car. Glad you've sold the problem(s) though!

Easiest way to check your improvements is to get a Dragy, go on your favorite section of road (repeatable location so that you can see improvements/changes) and do some 60-130 times. That will give you a good idea of the power you're making, taking out variables like how well you launch, tire traction, etc...
Oh yeah, 60-130mph on public roads? That's a GREAT recommendation

I would suggest 3rd gear pulls, if you HAVE to do it on the street. That will limit your speeds to a max of 80-ish or so. I would also suggest finding a remote highway on-ramp for this kind of activity.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2022 | 11:07 PM
  #59  
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From: OakCreek
Originally Posted by njaremka
Oh yeah, 60-130mph on public roads? That's a GREAT recommendation

I would suggest 3rd gear pulls, if you HAVE to do it on the street. That will limit your speeds to a max of 80-ish or so. I would also suggest finding a remote highway on-ramp for this kind of activity.
I hear ya ! I actually have an on ramp rite by me that leads onto 70mph speed limit and the on ramp is long and single laned but even then has a nice long merge spot once you do get on the freeway. I'm looking into the gpr tensioner rite now but just need to verify a few things before I pull the trigger on it. I'm hoping it would help my belts survive longer and slip less.
 

Last edited by MiniManAdam; Feb 11, 2022 at 05:09 AM.
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