After spending oodles of time getting the 2006 MCS running like a top, someone decided to leave the neighborhood on the wrong side of the median. In avoidance of collision, the curb was found with the driver side wheels. The curb did not have any give. It hit hard enough that the driver side curtain airbag went off. Luckily, everyone was unharmed. Just the poor mini.

Wheel pressed against wheel well


Well, after about 490 dollars in parts, I'll be able to get it back on the road. The lower control arm was bent, along with the rear lower arm, sway bar link was toast, a few clips were broken, the airbag, a trim piece, the driver side visor, and the wheels. The wheels were by far the largest expense. The hit cracked the rear wheel and bent the hell out of the front wheel. Neither tire lost pressure (unbelievable) but the front left was pressed against the wheel well and would't turn. So, I had to take off the tire and put just a rim on (no tire) and drive it two blocks to the house. I learned this from years of watching Cops. LOL. The rim was already slated to be recycled since it was bent and cracked. No loss there.

Get er done, GTA style ride to the house


Rim rear destroyed, but holding air. LOL. Crazy.


Front wheel is bent and scraped to heck


Cut on the tire where it hit then inner fender.


Bent front lower, sway bar link and rear lower.



However, I did score a win. Went to the Pull-a-part and landed the 2 piece BBS 8Y design wheels! They were 40 dollars each with a 15 dollar core for when I bring back the 2 busted wheels. The junkyard car only had two wheels on it (why, I have not idea) so I found 2 more online at a junkyard and got them for 75 each plus shipping. So pumped. I like these way better than the 188 a piece Moteigi Racing wheels that were on there.

The tire will move forward once I get the parts on, its just dangling there right now. Just wanted to see what they looked like on the mini. :D Also, need one more clip for the trim, the upper front one. It was different than the other three.



And while it was sitting there, decided to wet sand with 600 grit and 2K clear the headlights

 

The curb always wins.
at least it didn’t break the bank getting everything fixed.

 

Man - What a shame!
Glad no one was hurt.
However; I prefer the "new" bright alloy rims you now have.
(no offense) - I never cared for black rims.
Nice to hear she'll be back on the road again ...soon.

 

The repair is coming along nicely. I am impressed with the 2K on the headlights, I ordered some today to do my Mini and Caddy.
I'm with Here2go: I'm not into the solid black wheels and I love the new ones.

 

Damn that is quite some damage

 

The black ones came with the car, agree, I like the silver ones as well ,)

 

Great score on the wheels. They are a perfect fit for the R53.

 

Replaced the control arms (front and rear lower) yesterday and found out my inner tie rod is toast. So, had to order the inner and outer because I'm sure the outer is tweaked as well. Regardless, if anyone is struggling getting the lower front control arm in after replacing it or a bushing, try this trick. Me and my teenage son couldn't get it in to save our lives. So, I broke out my ratchet strap.

Used the floor jack to keep the arm in the upright position.
Put the short end of the strap on the control arm in the hole
Attached the longer end to the frame where the rear control arm mounts. There is a nice hole there that the metal hook grabs perfectly.
Added some white lithium to the control arm for lubricity
Then cranked on the ratchet strap. Took like two cranks, maybe three and she was in. SOOOOoooo much easier than brute force.


See the hook in the hole and bent inner tie rod

Jack supporting control arm from pulling downward when you crank on the ratchet strap

Long end running to the rear end

attachment point at rear near the lower control arm.

 

Any new updates on the repair?

 

I drove it, it drove! The left wheel was pointed way left. Major toe out (guess I suck at measuring). After driving it around the block the right front bearing started making the wawawawawawa noise of death. So I replaced that AND I went ahead and replaced all the ball joints on the passenger side. Upon doing that I found out the base of both struts were bent. I had to order a new ones. Also, ordered some Continentals for the wheels, they are delayed due to Ida (hurricane). Therefore, I can't put the wheels on just yet. The Mini is just hanging out on jack stands in my garage.

Also having timing chain issues. I've replaced the tensioner twice, and its still rattling. I disconnected the belt and started it to rule out the super charger. Still rattles without the belt which tells me its definitely the timing chain. I already replaced the belt tensioner, belt, and idler pulley. So, I'm going to get a timing chain kit with the guides and a new chain. This car is almost new again.

 

Well, after pulling the timing cover to put on a new chain and guides, turns out the front guide was broken about half way down. Explains why the new tensioner didn't help. Couple items of note. 1) Removing the ATI pulley required me to use a 1/4 drive extension to put in the crankshaft bolt hole to use the dampener removal tool that I got from Autozone. 2) Not having the camshaft gear holding tool made it a bit of a pain to tighten down the camshaft gear bolt and crankshaft dampener...had to use vice grips..went full redneck. It worked, but I didn't like it. 3) I had to heat up the crankshaft timing gear to 350F for 45 minutes and it still didn't slide all the way on. Had to use a large socket to finish the job by pounding it on. Again, didn't like it, but it is what it is. MAKE SURE NO LIGHT SHOWS through the key hole after you beat it on. If there is light (just use a flashlight and shine the backside of the keyhole) then you ain't done yet. Keep at it.

So, it all went together. I used the copper links and lined up the lower two marks at the 3 and 4 oclock positions, upper gear mark at like 11 as you look at it, but the engine is tilted so its really high noon. Doesn't matter, once you get it that close its only going to fit one way and maintain the copper links alignment. I put new seals on (lining up oil pump to crankshaft is a bit of a pain) and bolted everything back on. Also, new upper mount since it puked its guts out after hitting the curb. Ended up replacing both front wheel bearing since its so easy and I didn't want to go back and do it in a few weeks. So, pretty much the whole front end is new. LOL.

Closed my eyes and turned the key. Fired up........and! Smooth like butta! Quiet as can be. YES.

As I was finishing up odds and ends the FedEx man finally arrived (took 10 days to FedEx the part from the west coast of the US) with my strut! So, I bolted that up. Took her out for a drive. Man oh man. Guessing this is close what she felt like when new. Suspension is taught and smooth. The new ball joints really made a difference. Engine is running smooth. Sooooo Good!

The day before, my rally lights came in from the UK. Made it here faster than my strut from Cali. LOL. So, started to put that together. All that remains is the wiring!!

Here she is, new to her BBS 2 piece 8Y design wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport 5 All Season (Continentals I ordered were out of stock so the tire place asked if Michelin's were ok for the same price...heck ya!), stainless rally lights from Ebay UK 5" Rally Lights Ebay

 

Nice work. Looking good. Love those wheels.

I got the 5.5 inch Wipac driving lights from the U.K.

 

Congratulations @geauxturbo for all your hard work and perseverance to get this Mini back where she needs 2 be - on the road !
The wheels look great and I think everyone would agree that this is one classy looking ride

BTW: I purchased the same Rally's from hbowers UK too. 2"x5" were important to me. They just look "cleaner".