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I have a 2003 R50 It looks like the hot cold blend door motor just unclips, is this correct? and the later MINIs are held with 3 screws, is this correct?
yes mine (2006 r50) just unclips. The three screws hold on the piece that clips in under the dash. The screws don’t need to come out unless you are swapping the motor.
The motor comes out with the piece that is fastened to the motor, by the three screws, together
So in short the motor comes out complete with the screws with the bracket? The control arm looks to be a problem for removal, I have the part of the linkage detached from the blend door.
So in short the motor comes out complete with the screws with the bracket? The control arm looks to be a problem for removal, I have the part of the linkage detached from the blend door.
yes it will come out in one piece arm, motor and bracket. The arm does detach from the back of the motor but it’s keyed so it has to be at the right position
I bought a motor and will do an install when I get it. I assume that's the problem, no matter what I do with the heat control panel the motor does not move and the door move freely by hand.
To me it means the temperature blend door isn't moving as expected. I suspect the damper motor that is supposed to move the door is faulty. I don't know about on Mini's but this motor can be a real hassle to get to on some cars but not on others.
For a no heat concern, I would verify your engine coolant level is correct and that it is flowing to and through the heater core. If that checks out, you will probably need to replace the temperature blend door damper motor.
From the error code this looks to be a wiring problem,
In the first post, INPA says there’s a short to ground.
With the car turned off and the key out, I’d try checking resistance between ground and each of the pins in the wiring harness connector as shown in post #7.
Then check those results against the other connector, for the other actuator door that is in good working order.
The resistance tests may point out a grounded wire at the connector. It may be a solid ground of around an ohm or less, or could be as high as a few hundred ohms. These computer modules can be sensitive that way. Comparing the resistance readings between the good connector and problem connector will hopefully point out whether there’s a problem or not.
One more thing to try, is to run diagnostics again with the plug out of the problem actuator, and see if code 12 goes away. Naturally there will be other codes come up, but I’m curious to see if code 12 disappears.
Ok, back to my Christmas food coma...
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Did some testing yesterday. On the subject plug (temp mixing, pic attached) from left to right (pin 1 through 6). Not sure those are the right PIN numbers but that is what I am using in this description.
Continuity to the main engine ground on pin 2 (green w black stripe) and 6 (blue).
Ohms
Pin 1 - 3.9 m
Pin 2 (continuity to ground) - 15
Pin 3 - (blank)
Pin 4 - 4.6 k
Pin 5 - 100 k
Pin 6 (continuity to ground) - 10
Looking at a second plug for comparison. See pic of recirculate (air mixing) motor plug. It only has 3 pins. From left to right, pins 1 - 3. I used this one as its located right behind the glove box and was easy to reach.
Pin 3 (brown) has continuity to main engine ground.
If I remember right Pin 3 (ground) had 3.1 mV as well.
I did not take detailed notes, was thinking that the different number a pins, different plug meant it would not be a good comparison. In hindsight that was dumb. I will get details on this plug today and post.
About testing with the actuator (motor) unplugged. The fault codes did not seem to change (tested with both motors) when unplugged vs. plugged in when testing from the AC control unit (car).
HOWEVER
When testing the same thing and checking for codes via INPA I do see a change:
With the motor unplugged I get both error 1 and 12 (see attached pic).
With the motor plugged in I only get error 12 (short to ground)
(guess that solves the mystery of what error code 12 is?)
For this test I would turn the temp dial in the center of the AC control unit in the car after clearing codes. I'd go one degree (temp) at a time and read codes...the ground fault seem to come back right as you would expect the temp mix door to be moving (going from hot to cold or from cold to hot).
About testing with the actuator (motor) unplugged. The fault codes did not seem to change (tested with both motors) when unplugged vs. plugged in when testing from the AC control unit (car).
HOWEVER
When testing the same thing and checking for codes via INPA I do see a change:
With the motor unplugged I get both error 1 and 12 (see attached pic).
With the motor plugged in I only get error 12 (short to ground)
(guess that solves the mystery of what error code 12 is?)
At this point and time look for a good use control motor, looks like the motor has a short to ground.
Roger that. Taking voltage readings on which pins? I'll give it a try today
You would need a wire diagram to figure the pins to test. The only time I go to a out side grounding is to see if there is a break in the ground from the harness.
You would need a wire diagram to figure the pins to test. The only time I go to a out side grounding is to see if there is a break in the ground from the harness.
a good wiring diagram would be really helpful right now, agree. I don't see one in Bentley. Have one that I downloaded but the colors don't seem to match up. also doesn't contain much detail about what each wire does... Attached
If anyone has a wiring diagram that would be awesome
Did more testing today and have some corrections. Used the engine ground but I do plan on testing to the ground pins...just need to get different leads for the meter.
On the temp mixing actuator (motor) plug. The one with the issue. Here is what I got today. Engine off, key out:
Ohms
1 - ol (open)
2 - 7.3 (continuity to ground)
3 - blank
4 - ol (open)
5 - ol (open)
6 - 1.5 (continuity to ground)
Few things jump out at me. But again, I'm not really good with electrical...
The mixing plug, first plug above, has two grounds. Why is that necessary? Normal?
Maybe pin 4 is shorting to ground (notice its voltage is similar to pin 2 and 6, the confirmed grounds). Would it not then have continuity to ground?
If both pin 2 and 6 have continuity to ground, why is the ohm reading different? Should they not be the same?
