Long story short I've had what seemed like the typical rad fan resistor issue. Bought a new TYC rad fan and now neither low or high speed kick on at any temp. I've tested all of the fuses and relays to the best of my ability but the only two ways I've gotten the fan to do anything was by running the blower motor from inside or running the fan direct from the battery. Second, minor issue is that I ran the car for a few minutes without the ABS fuse located under the hood. Now I can't get the ABS and ASC lights to reset even though I've replaced the fuse. For now though I can live without abs. any help is appreciated.

 

You may have read this already, but this thread has good info on the conditions under which the radiator fan speeds, and power steering fan are activated. It may be worth confirming that your coolant temp is reaching these parameters with an OBD scanner before replacing anything else.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ering-fan.html

It might also be worth looking under the car to see if your PS fan is activating at all. It's directly connected to the rad fan high speed line, so if your PS fan is coming ON while your rad fan is still off, maybe your new fan assy. is a dud. Unlikely, but it could happen.

As far as your ABS light goes, I think you need to drive the car around for a minute or two for the comp to read the wheel speed sensors again and figure out that everything is back to normal. Then your light should turn off. If the ABS warning light still doesn't turn off, you could go somewhere safe and not on a public road to brake hard and see if your ABS actually activates or not.

 

Thanks! That was exactly what happened with the ABS. Just had to drive her around a bit. So I did end up figuring out my fan issue. A little embarrassing but I'll put it here for the next person who makes the same mistake. There was too much coolant in the system and when the car would get close to the temp at which the low speed fan was supposed to kick on, the cap would purge the excess. I just assumed it was a bad cap and that I was overheating the car. After flushing the coolant, getting it at the right level and burping it everything seems to be normal again.

 

Hi,

I'm extremely paranoid when it comes to low speed fan I test it all the time. I have had my third fan replaced last year over the course of 17 years for my 2005 Cooper S. My question about the intervals, low speed seems to cycle every 30-40 seconds for about 10 secs and was wondering if this is a fault of some kind ? I test it by turning on the AC and inspect the PS fan as well and it spins fine. I don't recall the low stage cycling when having the AC on when starting the car cold, typically it stays on for a couple min non stop before it stops. I tested also by removing the stage 1 relay and it goes straight to high speed and vice versa removing the high speed relay and leaving the low speed. I may have to wait for warmer hotter weather to confirm if the low speed should not operate in intervals ?

Thanks

Anthony

 

Hey, I've honestly only had to replace the one (so far) in the five years and 60k miles (sitting at 160k) I've had the car. As far as testing with the AC, I can't say for sure as mine was inop when I bought it and I've since deleted it. as long as you're not overheating you're likely fine. Just keep an eye on that cooling system. It would make sense for the fan to kick on just long enough to get back within normal operating temps so your fine very likely could be fine. When was the last time you flushed and bled the system?

 

I think maybe a few years back when I had to replace thermostat, I don't drive a lot around 5K km year. I'll listen for more sustained fan operation once the weather warms up, or I'll have to take it for a proper warm up and then listen for the fan. But it does work on low and high speeds when I took out the relays to bypass stage 1 to force high speed so I know the difference in fan speeds.

Thanks for the quick reply

Anthony

 

Correct, when it comes to turning on from engine temp, not from accessories like A/C & P/S.
With engine temp activation, it should simply stay on until the temp returns to below the designated activation point. I think low speed is 205°f, but I don't really remember.