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No compression on #2 cylinder .......Now have to decide whether to keep it and invest the $$$....or sell it as is...it's a pretty good condition R53 with 137000 on the clock... but it's not like they hold there value..I've only had it for 15 months...
But on the way to tracking down P0302 I started at the electrical side...New plugs/wires/coil pack...Car had an MSD coil pack on when I got it so the bolts were not gonna work with the OEM (Beru).....
I found these shoulder bolts at McMaster/Carr......
It's a Alloy Steel Shoulder Screws, 8 mm Shoulder Diameter, 40 mm Shoulder Length, M6 x 1 mm Thread...Part# 92981A206....
They were a smidge too small in diameter ..but two wraps of metal tape and they fit perfect....
Found some rubber washers that would crush down about 1/3 of there thickness...
I"m pretty happy with the end results....But unfortunately it wasn't the cure....But maybe this will help someone out...I thought the OEM bolts were pricey....
Probably a burnt valve. Happened to me and I've seen others on here with that issue. I had 220K on mine, so the head was pretty worn. I was able to find a 30K head from an '06 on eBay that worked. Not too difficult to just swap out the head, but you'll find all sorts of little things to replace while you're there. It's a great car. Would be a shame to let it go for that.
Well I'm finally about to start the job of replacing the head on the R53....My question is about getting a replacement....I would like to get one as close to stock as possible.....send the old one out?.......Is Ebay an option?.....reconditioned one?....Lets hear some recommendations....
AllMag is a forum sponsor and Mini breaker Who sells good quality used parts. They aren't necessarily the least expensive, but will provide you with a quality part. Ebay can be good, just be cautious before you click. Look for lots of pictures and check the seller's feedback and rating. I've considered things through Ebay and then decided not to after actually reading the feedback. An overall high feedback rating may not be indicative of a good seller.
Were me, I'd get a new reworked head from Way at www.WayMotorworks.com ....nothing too aggressive but maybe something more substancial for a daily driver.
If you like turning a wrench, you should definitely do it. You've got this message board and modmini's awesome videos to help you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WD90wXDTPUs
The removal of the 13mm bolt for engine ground strap as done in this video....I would NOT tighten up in same fashion....use a 1/8 in drive hand socket wrench for that....it has a tendency to "snap" off even just using a 1/2" drive.....
Thanks!...This is by far the most ambitious automotive project I've ever taken on...I'm sure it will take me months to do...but I have the Jeep,..Miata and the BMW motorcycle to get me around....Although in these time I can't do much of that either..
Drop your head off at a good machine shop and ask them to go through it. Cost less than a used head and you know what you got...
If they are going to rework the old head, have them slight port the exhaust ports so its just like a JCW head...its the only diff between a stock and the JCW.. Slightly opened up....
And BTW....whatever you do....and if you dont want to do this again a few months down the road...shell out the money for OEM head bolts and gaskets...dont get aftermarket ......It wont end well if you do...
Be careful with the timing chain. With it marked it can still shift off the crank sprocket once you remove it from the cam. A good practice is to ziptie the cam sprocket to the chain to help keep it in time and also to help keep the chain from getting too slack. Also remember it is under tension and the tensioner will move once it is loosened from the cam. It's a good idea to remove the tensioner to relax the tension on the chain. This will make it easier to fall off the crank sprocket, though.
I removed the tensioner and used the bungee method...the cam is also keyed into the sprocket.....things going well so far...Drained coolant and got the thermostat out.....the one plug you have to remove to access the bolt for the chain guide is being a ***** though...
WTF....This plug to access the timing chain guide bolt was somethin' else to remove.....Big thanks to McMaster-Carr for this extractor...You don't even want the story about how it ended up looking like this....
