Hi all, I just picked up a 2005 R53 that needed some love. Initially, I thought the car needed a new clutch. The car would seem to spike in RPM shortly after changing gear, though the car itself wouldn't be going any faster. After a few more drives, it doesn't seem like a clutch issue to me. The car holds in gear fine, has no issues going in and out of any gear. Since I purchased the car, I've installed new spark plugs, ignitor wires, coil pack, oil change, oil pressure sensor, and valve cover gasket. I've double checked the bypass valve, still very springy, so that shouldn't be it right?

The only thing I've noticed in my limited time is I found a small ~1" tear in one of the intercooler/supercharger boots. Would that be enough to cause these symptoms?

Any other suggestions or ideas would be very appreciated. Thank you!

 

Yes, change the Intercooler boots, but no that shouldn't cause the problem you're alluding to.
if you want to check the BPV, simply zip tie it closed temporarily and see if that changes anything.

BUT....
The problem with the RPM, if it's not a clutch issue, sounds like the beginnings of the harmonic balancer going bad.
They can actually slip until the rubber core gets hot and fuse themselves back together temporarily, in some cases.

 

Is there a surefire way for me to check that it needs to be replaced? Also, whats the go-to appropriate replacement? Ideally keeping cost low if possible.

Sorry for all the questions, still getting adjusted to the R53 world.

 

Bump, sorry just looking for some more input/opinions before ordering a new harmonic balancer. From what I see, I can’t see any damage to the belt or current harmonic balancer

 

Can you smell rubber in the area of the balancer? It’s typical that it gives off an odor as the rubber bits get rubbed around.

Also, the balancer is a known weak point, and is prone to failure and can take other parts with it in its throes. So, if you replace it now, even if it doesn’t fix the problem, you won’t have wasted your money.

 

Voting for replace the boots first, see if that takes care of the problem. Easy and cheap enough job, and upgraded ones are .

As for clutch, mine went at 52K, even with my light foot and mild driving habits since 18K. I don't track the car either. Perhaps the previous owner did. Others - especially R50 owners for some reason - can make theirs last to 100K and beyond.

Another good way to tell is on a hill, where they're prone to slip.

You won't see it coming apart in most cases. As mslatter points out you'll smell burning rubber and OBD will throw a P1688 code. (You may or may not be in "limp mode"; mine drove quasi normally for a while as long as I didn't run the AC. Then it finally did go into limp mode.) The pulley part the belt runs on will physically separate from the part that is bolted to the crankshaft (the dampening rubber inside literally tears itself apart, hence the smell), so the engine can no longer drive the accessories - alternator, supercharger, AC, and (via the supercharger) the water pump. So you see how quickly things can devolve as a result. A fun picture of the remains of mine at 55K miles:


R53 Harmonic balancer failure.


Yup. Also, get the right puller and an upgraded after market balancer available through some of the vendors on NAM and elsewhere online. OEM Quality will be far cheaper, but only reset the issue in time, and you'll see the same failure again down the road.

Good soup to nuts how-to guide here on Mod MINI. He also has a clutch replacement vid in two parts for the R53:

 

First off I’d like to thank everyone for their help and input!

second, i got the parts in the mail and process has started. Unfortunately I couldn’t complete the job today because 1, I didn’t have a 15mm socket on hand, and 2, I think the new belt I have is the wrong one, it’s too small (continental 4060415)

attached are some photos, the block is drenched in oil. Probably from the valve cover leak from up top that I replaced last weekend.

only question I have left: the crank pulley is still on the car right now, but it doesn’t seem to budge or wobble. This shouldn’t dismiss the possibility that it’s still defective, correct? Thanks again guys. Will keep you updated

 

Correct, there can be no noticeable physical damage or warning, until it just goes.
But as mentioned, it is a consumable part and "will" fail, just depend on how you want to deal with it. And if you purchased one of the high quality (albeit expensive) options, you'll never have to worry about it again.

 

I bought the SFI liquid dampener (same one Mod Mini used in his videos)

i don’t mind doing maintenance, I’m just hoping it resolves the symptoms so I can drive it :(

 

That does appear to be the right one, at least as listed on Rock Auto, unless the car is a JCW (in which case the belt you have might be too large). Maybe double check the belt stamp to make sure it matches the cardboard wrap label? Sometimes these things are returned or show up wrong right from the factory.

Also, you probably have figured out these are kind of a pain to put back on. As I recall, with the pin in the second tensioner hole, I started with the crankshaft (biggest pulley) and went down around around the AC, alternator, idler, supercharger, and finally the tensioner pulley. Double check the grooves are all in flush on every pulley as you go; not hard to have them slip and straddle the pulley edge.

Newtis link in case it helps.

Mod MINI does this here at 15:42:

 

Thank you!

The belt I got is the right one (as far as the stamp goes), but it seems at least 2-3 inches shorter in circumference than the old one i pulled off. Is it possible for the old belt to be SO worn out that its stretched out? The new one seems way too small to be fitted back

 

In theory sure but the geometry of the stationary engine pulleys won't change. The tensioner automatically compensates for belt stretch either due to age or ambient temperature.

2-3" does seem like a lot though. Did you cross reference the old belt's number (if you can read it) to OEM spec / Rock Auto etc? Also are the new and old crank pulleys the same (OEM) diameter? Any chance you got an oversized one?

If that checks out double check to make sure you have the pin installed in the tensioner's second hole, per the video / Bentley while installing the new belt. If it is but you are still having trouble, one solution might be to have a friend pull back even farther on the L-tool as you're installing the new belt but be very careful not to get your fingers pinched in case he can't hold it, or the tool slips.

Also try installing the belt crank pulley first, feed it around the AC and alternator, blower, then either of the smaller pulleys - tensioner or idler - last. I had trouble installing my last belt too, and one of these finally worked when I changed mine, no helper needed. But I had to have that tensioner pinned at the second hole.

 

Time for an update

First of all, thank you again for everyone's help thus far.

Second, the new crank pulley is finally installed. Biggest issues were my missing sockets and me having to run back and forth to the store. But its on.

Good news: the old crank pulley REEKS of burnt rubber. It hasn't come apart, but the stench is quite obvious. And the car definitely drives a bit better now, especially with the new supercharger/intercooler rubber boots.

Bad news: with this fix, its definitely evident now that the clutch also needs to be replaced. Both symptoms of the crank pulley and the clutch overlapped one another and it was difficult to distinguish. So, double edged sword, it improved, but now I know I need to replace the clutch :( . Its drivable for now, it only slips during hard acceleration after 3800k.

Oh well, this gave me the opportunity to address some cosmetic issues. Replaced the hood scoop, polished the headlights, replaced a missing fender flare, replaced a missing fender red reflector. Next project will be replacing the headliner. I attempted at shampoo'ing the seats, but I may have to do it again, they're still a little gross looking.

Also, I'd like to address a significant whining noise the car makes. My hunch is the alternator? but its a consistent yo-yo whine, gets worse if i turn the steering wheel. Also, the interior gauge lights seem to be synced up to dim a bit every time the car whines. Sounds like its possibly a pump of some kind.

I think I'll start daily driving the car soon, but I'll tackle the clutch job next month when I have some time, I'm in grad school, so that puts a wrench into my availability to work on the car everyday.

Anyways, any additional tips would be appreciated!

 

You got it just in time. Mine actually did separate, it was very nearly a disaster. Bullet dodged.
Also just in time. Congratulate yourself in advance for saving $3K in useless dealer labor. And before you go for the OEM replacement set, search on "Valeo Single Mass" here and on Mod MINI's channel. You're welcome.
Power steering pump most likely. Check fluid first, make sure it's topped off. PS pump is a 100A circuit so if it's failing, little surprise it might be drawing a lot of current and dimming the lights. Hopefully others will weigh in on what to do or test next with it.
"Ba-dum-bump-shhhhh. Tip your waitress on the way out fellas, I'll be here all week..."

 

Yes! I'm glad someone caught my pun lol

Good tip on the power steering. I don't know why I never bothered to check since buying the car. It does seem pretty low, so I'll top that off. And I watched Mod Mini's Valeo clutch DIY... Wow thats a big job. Definitely something thats going to take my a while, I still consider myself a beginner when it comes to working on cars, despite doing some intensive stuff on my previous cars.

Appreciate all the help, I know I'm almost 20 years late to the R53 club lol

 

No you would be - once again - right on time. It's the rest of us old codgers who are late to the party; I should have bought mine new!