When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had a 2005 Cooper S manual trans towed to me for a "bad clutch". I quickly found that the drivers side axle was nearly an inch out of the trans. I popped it back in (removed outer nut and used a punch to ensure it was seated). Ran it around a bit and all was good. He had struts and new axles (GKN from fcpeuro) installed 3 days before what he thought was a clutch failure,
While I had it, I did a supercharger oil change, CPS oring replacement, changed the trans fluid (inspected for metal, none found) and a set of overdrive pulleys. I ran it around some more and sent it home.
The next time he went to leave his driveway, the axle popped out again. I ran over, popped it back and drove it back to my shop. I removed the axle expecting to find a missing C clip, but it's there. The last 9 or 10mm of splines as stripped - no surprise, but I can't figure out why the clip isn't retaining the axle. I'm trying to find out if its the correct axle - either the wrong one, or manufactured wrong.
It is a 304218 and it seems to be the correct listing. Any diagrams on the correct length for this?
Right now my best guess is that that the axle wasn't installed correctly originally and was damaged when it popped out and now will no longer stay seated. Any thoughts?
The owner got a replacement axle under warranty and I did some comparisons. There is a difference in the inner joint. Both have the same part number, both by GKN. No issues after installing the new axle. Guess it doesn't matter too much now, but still wondering if it was a bad/incorrect joint or simply not installed properly. Here are some side by side comparisons (upper is the old, lower is new). Different joints completely (old is larger with a different boot).
OK, so how do you guys know when you have the axle all the way in? I need to do a rebuild on mine soon. I have done axles but this makes me more cautious.
Most common issue with non-oem axles are the spline length and the retaining clips is not spread out enough. If the axle can be simply "popped" back in the clip is not engaged enough. Spread the clip a bit more and it will fully engage after a nice solid punch.
Is it the camera angle, or does the lower shaft and spline look thicker?
spline area mic'd up the same. Slight difference in length. Big difference in the "cup" section of the joint.
Originally Posted by TX-Mini05
Need a new axle. Same thing happened to me. When I was doingLCA bushings I didn’t pop cv axle all the way in and mine popped out too and spun the end
Sure does look like the same damage! Owner has been running it around with no issues since I installed the replacement.
Originally Posted by Mini invictus
OK, so how do you guys know when you have the axle all the way in? I need to do a rebuild on mine soon. I have done axles but this makes me more cautious.
I used a centerpunch on the end of the axle (nut removed) and gave it a decent whack. To make sure it was seated properly, I used a prybar to gently attempt to pry it away from the trans. I could see the axle wiggle, but there was no outward movement.
Originally Posted by Mini invictus
Great, Thank you. Seems like another reason to stay with the OEM axles.
Personally - I would have just rebuilt the OEM axle but the guy who worked on it prior replaced them (and the originals were no longer available to rebuild). It only needed a new boot. I never replace them. Second choice would be a good used.. These at least were not cheapie autozone special chinesium axles ($200) - OEM is like $500?
I'd sure be scared of that..!
Only about .25" engagement and that's called..."good", ready to run ?
MIke
The damage you see is what stripped when the axle popped out. It had full contact when seated. I was mainly concerned with damage internal to the trans. The new axle hasn’t had any issues at all.
Same happened to me after my son replaced both axles; the left side popped out. No metal in trans oil, but those ground off splines had to go somewhere.
It’s not a huge deal to open the trans, at least the 6 spd in my case. There were some filings on the magnet but not excessive. Then I noticed a chunky on the diff left output bearing. I pulled the whole diff and recovered lots of spline pieces inside its case. Just one little snap ring and you can take the whole thing apart. There was galling damage on the gears’ mating surfaces. I don’t know if that was there already or if it was from chewing up the axle splines chunkies.
I elected to replace the diff with one I found on eBay for $150. It came with a couple spots of similar damage but far less than mine. I’m going to throw it in there and call it good.
I do appreciate the tip of slightly expanding the retaining spring ring, and use a pry bar to make sure it’s completely seated. Good thing in a pinch if it happens again I can pop it back in and drive it home where I’ll replace with OEM.
Same happened to me after my son replaced both axles; the left side popped out. No metal in trans oil, but those ground off splines had to go somewhere.
It’s not a huge deal to open the trans, at least the 6 spd in my case. There were some filings on the magnet but not excessive. Then I noticed a chunky on the diff left output bearing. I pulled the whole diff and recovered lots of spline pieces inside its case. Just one little snap ring and you can take the whole thing apart. There was galling damage on the gears’ mating surfaces. I don’t know if that was there already or if it was from chewing up the axle splines chunkies.
I elected to replace the diff with one I found on eBay for $150. It came with a couple spots of similar damage but far less than mine. I’m going to throw it in there and call it good.
I do appreciate the tip of slightly expanding the retaining spring ring, and use a pry bar to make sure it’s completely seated. Good thing in a pinch if it happens again I can pop it back in and drive it home where I’ll replace with OEM.
3 years later and still going strong! Dual supercharger pulley upgrade and a real nice catback since then
3 years later and still going strong! Dual supercharger pulley upgrade and a real nice catback since then https://youtu.be/ncjBCd2C5Wo
he doesn’t baby it one bit!
OK, that’s a new one on me. What is a dual supercharger pulley? I’ve seen different percentage reductions to spin the SC faster but never heard of this.
OK, that’s a new one on me. What is a dual supercharger pulley? I’ve seen different percentage reductions to spin the SC faster but never heard of this.
HelloI changed out the driver side strut, lower control arm and CV axle.
all seemed to go well until I got on the freeway and was traveling in 6th gear doing approx 70 mph when it slipped out of gear.
I pulled to the center divider and shut off the engine. With the engine off the car vibrated pretty intense for a solid minute. I got it towed home and now I'm stuck wondering if the new axle popped out if the tranny or if my clutch had suddenly went out.
My car starts and runs fine but it won't move.
I can shift it thru every gear without having to use the clutch peddle.
Which means that it's not engaging.
the new axle that I installed is a cheap one from auto zone. I've tried reinstalling it and used a punch and sledgehammer to seat it but it still won't move.
I wasn't having any clutch issues prior to installing the new axle, strut and lower control arm.
So I don't think the clutch is the problem.
It's gotta be the new axle?
My question is this: If the axle isn't seated right can it cause the clutch to not engage?
HelloI changed out the driver side strut, lower control arm and CV axle.
all seemed to go well until I got on the freeway and was traveling in 6th gear doing approx 70 mph when it slipped out of gear.
I pulled to the center divider and shut off the engine. With the engine off the car vibrated pretty intense for a solid minute. I got it towed home and now I'm stuck wondering if the new axle popped out if the tranny or if my clutch had suddenly went out.
My car starts and runs fine but it won't move.
I can shift it thru every gear without having to use the clutch peddle.
Which means that it's not engaging.
the new axle that I installed is a cheap one from auto zone. I've tried reinstalling it and used a punch and sledgehammer to seat it but it still won't move.
I wasn't having any clutch issues prior to installing the new axle, strut and lower control arm.
So I don't think the clutch is the problem.
It's gotta be the new axle?
My question is this: If the axle isn't seated right can it cause the clutch to not engage?
the axle will act like a bad clutch as in the car will not move at all. Typically if your speedometer rises, the clutch is engaging. Jack up the front end and spin one wheel while in gear. The other wheel should turn the opposite direction (typically open diff).
A pics for you. On the bench- this is what it's supposed to look like in the car. Both shafts are installed completely. Notice the driver side is really in there. (The bottom shaft in the pic) To effect a solid install, I took my axle apart and placed the "cup" with the splines into the trans and gave it a good whack with a 2x4 and a hammer to ensure it was really seated.(You'll hear and feel an audible clunk when it seats) I had tried other ways and it would not cooperate. Once seated then I greased the cup and put the boot back on and clamped it. Hope this helps.
Thank you very much.
Ive been dealing with this issue for over a month. I've tried giving it a whack with a sledge hammer but it didn't fix the problem. I appreciate the info you've given me. I won't have time to work on it again until this weekend. That is when Ill give it another whack with the hammer. This site is very helpful, and Thank you again.
Originally Posted by Boostmaster
A pics for you. On the bench- this is what it's supposed to look like in the car. Both shafts are installed completely. Notice the driver side is really in there. (The bottom shaft in the pic) To effect a solid install, I took my axle apart and placed the "cup" with the splines into the trans and gave it a good whack with a 2x4 and a hammer to ensure it was really seated.(You'll hear and feel an audible clunk when it seats) I had tried other ways and it would not cooperate. Once seated then I greased the cup and put the boot back on and clamped it. Hope this helps.
Side note: If the end of your splines are chewed up as it the pics earlier in this thread, I would not use. Also, if they are chewed up and I'm going to guess that they are, I would recommend a magnet exploration into the trans. When mine popped out, it got chewed and I had some tiny little metal pieces. I spent a good half hour "fishing" for pieces though the hole. Once I was satisfied I had gotten all I could, then I installed the axle shaft.
I checked the splines on the axle and they don't appear to be damaged. But the clip seems a bit too snug, so I'm going to open it up some.
I've heard from a few different people (non of which have ever worked on or had any experience with mini coopers). And they all have insisted that the problem I'm having has something to do with the clutch suddenly giving out. And they all have insisted that I start by replacing the slave cylinder. However, I don't agree with any of them since the slave cylinder only disengages the clutch it doesnt engage it. So in my case the slave cylinder can't be the problem. My clutch isn't engaging, it's stuck in disengage mode and with the engine running I can shift thru the gears without even pressing the clutch peddle.
like I said i wasn't having any issues with the clutch prior to installing the new axle.
So the way I see it it's gotta be that the new axle is either not seating correctly or it just doesn't work and I need to exchange it for a new one.
This site contains a wealth of information and your help is invaluable.
I'll let you know how it goes this weekend.
Thank you for taking the time to help me with this.
