It sounds to me like a minor head gasket leak. It runs rough initially because there is a little water in the cylinder that prevents it from running, but it clears up as the air flow of the engine dries out the cylinder. If you can, use a borescope and look at the pistons. If one is very clean then you have your answer.

 

I wouldn’t say ones super clean but looks different from the rest. Still does not explain the cam code.

 

Yes that is the chain guide. But that usually happens after the chain stretches as the chain will bounce and cause it to come off like that. So the proper fix is to replace the timing chain kit.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/timing...0-r52-r53.html

Also a good idea to pull the oil pan as we often find small parts from it in the oil pump pick up.

Looking at those rockers with the how dirty they are the usually indicates the car didn't have enough oil changes.

 

Well it’s looking like the head will have to come of due to the gasket, timing chain is a go... what else should I do while I have it tore apart?

 

The third one definitely looks suspicious. I would let it sit overnight and see if any coolant puddles inside.

As for what to do, I would clean the carbon off the piston crowns and also check the cylinder walls for excess wear, especially the third one. Another possibility on number three is a leaking injector. the excess fuel could clean off the carbon and puddle in the cylinder overnight, causing a similar condition to a mild head gasket blow.

 

Cars been sitting with plugs out and valve cover off for a few days now. If there is nothing puddled up as of now there won’t be if I let it sit longer. Runs like crap as of now so still not driving it till I get some parts in. Also not sure why they posted like that but the clean one is the first one on passenger side of the car if that matters.

 

Well its been awhile, trips and work have kept me from doing much until today. Took the timing guides out and one is missing the guides, go figure. Harmonic Balancer looks rough and from a bit of reading sounds like it can be part of the problem. SO time for the wallet to cry and new parts are on the way!
ATI Super Damper
DDM Intake
FULL Gasket set
Head Bolt Set
Timing Set
NGK BKR7 plugs
WMW Way Mild Street Cam
Cam tools
Crank Puller
Belt tool
New valve cover bolts
Gas Cap

A good amount of money later and maybe if all goes right it will back running and on the road this weekend!

 

This is the time to do the valves and replace the valve guides. They are known to wear out and cause power loss, so do them now, while it is all apart!
You wont regret it! It will save you money in the long run!

 

So popped the head off today and this is what I am working with, some things concern me...
Scarring on all large lobes of the cam, 2 pics of it below
All intake valves look clean, exhaust not so much
#1 looks cleaner then the rest

 

The valve guides from the factory were never good and while you have the head off, at least you need to see how worn they are! They are known as a weak point on these engines! If they and the valve stems are worn, the valves will not seat properly, while it is running. Why do the other work, if you are not going to do this? After all, you want it to run as best as possible, once it is back together. This is the best time to do it! Take it to a good auto machine shop, as it is important to get this done right!

Things to know:
Only use 100% synthetic motor oil.
Replace the cam chain tensioner with a new and tested one( there are many no good new ones out there).
Check that the vibration dampener is in good shape, as they are known to fail about 100% of the time. An aftermarket one is your best bet.
Do not use an air filter, that needs to be oiled. (this is a common problem with run ability issues. (fouling the map sensor and throwing codes, that can put your car in creep mode at the worst times possible)
Use NGK BKR6EIX or NGK BKR7EIX spark plugs (they will keep you smiling!)
Factory coil, they have proved to be the best option.
Do oil service on supercharger and check the pals on the waterpump, to make sure they are not broken.
Replace the fan speed control on the radiator shroud, if the low speed fan is not working.

 

Well after a decent amount of work it's alive again and seems to be happy. After an oil pan gasket, timing chain and guides/tensioner, timing cover gasket, ATI super damper, WMW mild cam, new head bolts, new cam sensor, head gasket, fuel cap, DDM intake, BKR7EIX plugs, new gates 0535 belt and some other random stuff along with walnut blasting the heads it seems good again. So found a few issues in the tear down, pitting on head by #1 (pretty sure was the head gasket issue), wrong belt had an 0539, wrong plugs and some other questionable items. I had a spare head that looked new after some clean up work so I installed that since it was not pitted. Not sure 100% what exactly was the issue but its gone now, from what I seen I think its a combo of the leaking head gasket and slipped teeth. Thanks for all the help guys and @Blue R50 you were right on about the leak and the start up issues.

 

So issues have come back to visit... The other day threw a p1688 and 0107 along with pass window reg died. New windows reg all good now, p0107 won’t go away. Swapped sensor with Delphi one and scan tools shows map 0 on or idle. Checked bpv and it’s springy so seems ok. Car will fire but takes a few seconds to fire when it does, idles a bit funny for a few seconds then ok it seems. I have removed the map and ran car and can hear vac pressure from hose, used borescope and looks to be all good and connected.

Have 3 map sensors (delphi, amazon, oem looking one) all show 0 on scan tool
Replaced in the last 3k miles:
ATI dampner
belt
plugs
coil
cam
head gaskets
head bolts
timing chain/sprockets

 

Having a problem with these two codes as we speak did you ever resolve this issue?
​​​​​TIA