New R53, has some issues...
 

Got me an 05 Mini S the other day, has some issues but I knew about them and still was a good deal. So here is what I know about the car... 05 S original engine blew (dont know why or how) so another one was swapped in (unknown mileage) by PO, has a slow coolant leak, a/c needs to be charged. It has this thing where once it sits all night when you start it first time it sounds rough and you can tell something is not right, turn it off and try again and your good to go no issues. So I hooked it up to the scanner and it said misfire and low fuel, cleared and now I get P0301 twice. Yes I have done my searching and nothing matches my case, only seems to happen once car sits for some time (overnight) you have to do the double start thing, if you stop at the store or something like that no issues. Someone I know said its my o2 but thought id run it by others to get some more ideas.

Next puzzling thing... car running a/c off fans blowing no noise, running a/c on fans blowing there is a sucking noise coming from somewhere. Ideas?

Coolant leak, on my list just cant seem to find the darn thing right now or any trace of the leak... oil is normal color as well.

TPMS light on but it has aftermarket rims and guessing no sensors, also the traction circle/triangle light is on. Not sure if they are related or not?

P0301 is Cylinder #1 misfire. Check your spark plug, it may be cracked, or you may have a puddle of oil from a leaking seal creating an arc path. I chased an intermittent misfire for a year before I changed plugs (again) and found that my #2 plug had two hairline cracks up by the contact point causing the misfire.

You might have a faulty wheel speed sensor. They’re used for the abs, traction control and (on mine at least) the TPMS. It looks for the increased rotation of one wheel only consistent with a flat tire/ decreasing diameter.

Speaking from experience, a faulty steering angle sensor (pn 32306793632) will light the TPMS and DSC lamps. If resetting the TPMS doesn't clear them the one on your car may need replacing.

Quite often the collant tank splits along the seam and causes issues like this. Most of us use the aluminum tank that takes the factory cap.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...81a5660110.jpg
The new tank, to replace the old leaking one. Way better built! Takes stock radiator cap!

I will look into this, any plugs you would recommend?

Is there a way to test this guy or is replacing the only way to know?

DSC toggle there is, flipping it till I go mad still does nothing (even tried holding it a few sec as well).

Any way to test it other then replace?

Mine seems to not be leaking, least from what I can tell its not. Where can I find this new shiny tank of wonder?

On to other items, is there a way to turn off the TPMS minus pulling the fuse or buying NCS Expert? I have looked at the cost of something like NCS Expert vs getting 4 TPMS sensors but will have to find out how to program them. I am not 100 % sure but I am 99% sure the rims I have on it now do not have the TPMS so looking for my best options.

Ninfivfo - see if this helps:

I believe '05 models do not have, or need, TPMS sensors inside the wheels. There is a sensor behind each rotor & a notched ring on each hub. TPMS, DSC & ABS functions are triggered by a difference in rotational speed.

DSC can be turned off (light on) by holding the switch down for at least 5 seconds.

TPMS can be reset by holding the button down for some time (30 seconds, maybe) & then driving the car. It may take some distance to reset.

Quote: Mine seems to not be leaking, least from what I can tell its not. Where can I find this new shiny tank of wonder?

On to other items, is there a way to turn off the TPMS minus pulling the fuse or buying NCS Expert? I have looked at the cost of something like NCS Expert vs getting 4 TPMS sensors but will have to find out how to program them. I am not 100 % sure but I am 99% sure the rims I have on it now do not have the TPMS so looking for my best options.
:end quote
you can get a tank on amazon, ebay for the best price), ECT, Mini Mania, Pelican Parts and many others. Make sure to get ones that take the stock radiator cap, as they seem to work well.
The tire pressure control is done only through wheel sensors reading the speed of the tires turning. When a tire is low on pressure, or the wrong size, you will get the light. Also, if a wheel sensor goes bad you will also.
To reset the light, turn on the ignition, then hit the tire switch for a second or so.

Tried the DSC toggle, 5 sec, 15 sec, 30 sec, etc to no avail it will not turn off, flash or do anything. I have also tried a variety of sec holding the TPMS reset with no luck...

Will look into the suggest sites and see what I can find, Tried the TPMS reset with no luck, it does not throw a code for which sensor that could be bad sadly...

Did some looking today and thinking I am going to go with NGK IX plugs, probably one step colder as well so I think a 7? Also seen these demon coils? Is this worth the switch, thinking of changing plugs/wire/coil?

You are better off with the factory coil pack, as they have proven to be very good! Change the wires and plugs, clean the contacts on the input plug for the coil, as they can corrode and cause misfire issues.
Usually the front (drivers side) ABS sensor goes bad. The factory ones are expensive, but places like amazon have them at a very reasonable price (like $10 each) Be careful, when you plug them in, as I get quite a few cars where people bend the long pins, trying to put them in.
Can't tell you if the 6 or 7 are best. It more depends on your type of driving whether you really need the colder plug. What is very important, is to use only 93+ octane gasoline. Using regular is a death blow to your engine!
side note: you may need to bleed the braking system and the ABS may need to be bled also, which will take a scan tool with that ability. This can also keep the the warning light on also.

I use the NGK IX plugs, colder than factory at a 7, however, I also have a 15% underdrive pulley and a 2% overdrive Crank pulley. I wouldn't go to a 7 unless you have more boost than factory.
TPMS- My Schwaben scanner was able to tell me which wheel speed sensor was bad (I did buy it specifically to diagnose this BTW)- when mine went out, I got the Trifecta lights (TPMS, DSC, SES) I've replaced both front sensors now with Bosch units.
HTH,

TPMS sensors at that base of the valve stems were introduced in August 2007.

Copy on the coil info, should know which sensor is being difficult tomorrow when my new scan tool arrives.

Good to know, changed my list on what I need to get thanks!

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Well new scan tool came in and I got a chance to scan the whole car and this is what I got. Knew about the misfire and I have a set of plugs to try, gonna move to coil if that does not solve it. Wiper one is not new as the fluid reservoirs are not in the car currently. The rest is being researched at the moment.

Many times I have seen corroding on the plug going to the coil. I may not look dirty, but a shot or two of contact cleaner, works wonders!

Its been a bit since I have been able to work on the car, however the other day it was very sluggish and threw a p0431 which pointed to a cam sensor. Thought this was weird as I drove to work fine, then when I came home it was acting weird. Long story short I checked all fuses recommended ( i think f3 in engine bay) no luck, checked connector and cleaned it with no luck so I replaced it, with no luck. Noticed my battery was 12.8 when car was running so I looked at fuse 39 in the car and it looked fine but I swapped it and voltage went up. Looks to hold 13.8 as of now, erased all codes and took it for a drive but no change. Since the voltage went up I doubt the alternator is bad, now I am thinking battery? Need some other ideas, on a positive note the misfire code is gone and I think that's to bad connections. I re-seated all connectors to coil on coil and on plugs, I don't think some were all the way on, least that's what it felt like.

Well swapped sensors, checked all fuses and even replaced them for laughs,al wires and connectors look good. Decided it must of jumped time, so opened her up and this is what I seen. Found what looks to be part of a broken chain guide but not sure where it came from? Also chain seems tight but no markings on chain to check time... although in the process I managed to snap two bolts so that was fun. Charged battery 100% out of the car today and no change. I’m at a loss on what the issue is.

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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...f919f4e8b.jpeg
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Pulled the plugs and this is what I am working with, yes that is oil on the left one.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...261e965a7.jpeg

The pic is half of the chain guide. You have to take off the front engine case plate to see the issue and replace the guides. Better get a new chain too!

https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...f&action=click
His explanation and method are strange, but you will see what needs to be done. Sorry quick search. I think Pelican Parts has a good one. (explained with pics.

Chances are, the rest of that chain guide is in your oil pan.

I thought so as well at first but I can use my scope and see pretty far down there and it looks all intact, not looking forward to this.

Don't know if you finally fixed your DSC issue but you may need to reset your ECU. Instructions can be found on this Forum.

DSC seems to be tied to the current codes I am getting, least from what I can tell and research says. Tried the ECU reset and it did nothing sadly, was worth a shot.
Been poking around and found a WMW 17% SC pulley along with WMW plug wires, car was running BKR6EIX plugs so I will be switching to 7s soon. Sadly when I took the valve cover off 2 bolts snapped so now I am waiting on new ones...Timing chain seems nice and tight so I am unsure if I will remove the cover to check it since I need to buy tools to do so it seems. Considering swapping the crank sensor but no one locally has one sadly.

If it looks all intact, how do you explain the piece of guide you pulled out.. I'm the second owner of Scarlet, the PO took meticulous care of her, she was only serviced at the dealer; as such, there is a complete dealer history from the PO. The records stated the timing chain guides were replaced before they did an oil pan gasket, they were done about 15K miles apart. Why was there timing chain guide GUTS all in the bottom of the oil pan when I changed the gasket. I thought for sure my guides were gone until I took the front of the engine apart and realized they were intact. That's when I realized the STEALERSHIP had lied and never replaced the oil pan gasket and never removed the broken pieces when they replaced the Timing chain guides. It's not that big of a job to check and or change the guides Since I had already purchased the guides thinking mine were resting in the bottom of my oil pan, I just replaced them. I can;t think of any special tools needed. The link below if for removing the head, but the first steps are removing the guides if you choose to go this route.


I know you have other issues, but this could be a place to start.