R50/53 How to disable warning lights
#26
#27
The front sensors are in a well where debris and water can sit, it causes rust around the sensor. I had to drill mine out- If you need to do so, be sure that you don't drill any farther through than is necessary (I used the new sensor as a gauge and put a drill stop onto it), as you can ding the back of the Hub and cause THAT to throw a wheel speed sensor light as well. My Schwaben diagnostic was able to read which wheel sensor was inactive making it easier.
Another tip was to grease the new sensor length (not the end of it) when you put it in to keep water from causing rust again.
HTH,
Another tip was to grease the new sensor length (not the end of it) when you put it in to keep water from causing rust again.
HTH,
The replacement procedure is starting to make me apprehensive though as this is Japan and I don't have a nice garage with all the fixings.
Thinking for the time being I'll see if I can get it to pass inspection with the lights on. If I can then I can do the repairs sometime over the summer. If it doesn't then I'll need to do it sooner. Hehe
#28
Can't imagine a realignment would make a big difference as, A. it doesn't feel out of a alignment, and B. as old as this car is and with the run flats being replaced with regular rubber, I'd say there's a much better chance one or more of the sensors is no longer working.
#29
#30
As mentioned, I was told by the previous owner that the problem presented at the time the tires were changed. I have no reason to doubt him as he's a friend.
In any event, I think it's clear (not absolutely, as I don't like to speak in absolutes) that the problem lies with at least one of the sensors.
So my choices are to either start replacing them one by one and hope it's the first one and not the last one, or drop around $150 on a diagnostics tool that can identify exactly which it is.
#31
I don't believe that's entirely true. First of all, it's very possible that one of the sensors may have been damaged during the swap. Secondly, depending on the dimensions of the replacement rubber it could certainly set off the sensors.
As mentioned, I was told by the previous owner that the problem presented at the time the tires were changed. I have no reason to doubt him as he's a friend.
In any event, I think it's clear (not absolutely, as I don't like to speak in absolutes) that the problem lies with at least one of the sensors.
So my choices are to either start replacing them one by one and hope it's the first one and not the last one, or drop around $150 on a diagnostics tool that can identify exactly which it is.
As mentioned, I was told by the previous owner that the problem presented at the time the tires were changed. I have no reason to doubt him as he's a friend.
In any event, I think it's clear (not absolutely, as I don't like to speak in absolutes) that the problem lies with at least one of the sensors.
So my choices are to either start replacing them one by one and hope it's the first one and not the last one, or drop around $150 on a diagnostics tool that can identify exactly which it is.
Swapping tires from runflat to not-POS will not, and can not, directly affect TPMS on these cars. If the reading wasn’t reset / renormalized after swapping the tires and properly setting the tire pressures, see point 1 about finding a competent mechanic / source of information.
#32
No. The TPMS system, as explained already in this thread, uses the ABS sensors to detect a ~10% rotational difference. At that point a TPMS light is illuminated. If anything else was done while simply swapping tires, whoever caused the fault should never touch a wrench again, or at the very least hit the books and learn a little first.
Swapping tires from runflat to not-POS will not, and can not, directly affect TPMS on these cars. If the reading wasn’t reset / renormalized after swapping the tires and properly setting the tire pressures, see point 1 about finding a competent mechanic / source of information.
#33
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ShizuokaMark (04-29-2019)
#34
The following users liked this post:
ShizuokaMark (04-30-2019)
#35
Oh yeah, that sounds like great advice for a newbie. Lol
As mentioned way back in the beginning of this thread, I do not have a scanner/diagnostics tool.
The Foxwell NT510 seems pretty user friendly. NCS Expert not so much.
While at some point I'd certainly be interested in learning some of the coding aspects available, for right now my only concern is getting my car to pass the mandatory 2 year inspection as mentioned numerous times.
I've still got about 6 weeks til it has to be done so I'm not in a huge rush. Just trying to weigh whether it would be better to bite the bullet and fork out close to $150 on a diagnostics tool which will probably only confirm what's wrong but not actually fix anything,
OR start replacing ABS sensors starting with the easier ones in the front and hope I get lucky and find the right one sooner rather than later. Not sure how NCS Expert and "poking around" really helps. Perhaps you could expound on that.
As mentioned way back in the beginning of this thread, I do not have a scanner/diagnostics tool.
The Foxwell NT510 seems pretty user friendly. NCS Expert not so much.
While at some point I'd certainly be interested in learning some of the coding aspects available, for right now my only concern is getting my car to pass the mandatory 2 year inspection as mentioned numerous times.
I've still got about 6 weeks til it has to be done so I'm not in a huge rush. Just trying to weigh whether it would be better to bite the bullet and fork out close to $150 on a diagnostics tool which will probably only confirm what's wrong but not actually fix anything,
OR start replacing ABS sensors starting with the easier ones in the front and hope I get lucky and find the right one sooner rather than later. Not sure how NCS Expert and "poking around" really helps. Perhaps you could expound on that.
Last edited by ShizuokaMark; 05-01-2019 at 09:41 PM.
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