R50/53 2006 JCW R53 "Refresh"
#151
11-13-2018, 07:34 AM
It does look like the plates removed a bit of the caster. Your toe was too far in as a result of the added camber, which probably result ed in the “dead” feel. It looks like they have it set now to the center of the specs, which will be fine for the street. Best of all, the numbers are pretty even all around. Nicely done. :thumbsup.
#153
11-13-2018, 08:14 PM
It does look like the plates removed a bit of the caster. Your toe was too far in as a result of the added camber, which probably result ed in the “dead” feel. It looks like they have it set now to the center of the specs, which will be fine for the street. Best of all, the numbers are pretty even all around. Nicely done. :thumbsup.
.However, nearby 'Losail' has an international raceway and they let you track your own car - might just have to try it out - at 52 it's about time I popped the 'track cherry'
#155
11-14-2018, 06:20 AM
With the traffic we have here in Doha, there's little to no chance here on the streets, unless you come out early .
However, nearby 'Losail' has an international raceway and they let you track your own car - might just have to try it out - at 52 it's about time I popped the 'track cherry'
.However, nearby 'Losail' has an international raceway and they let you track your own car - might just have to try it out - at 52 it's about time I popped the 'track cherry'
Careful, now. They don’t call it “track crack” for nothing. Once hooked on “track” you will spend every cent you have on “track” and your car. This could be you:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-project.html
Actually, that looks like a great track. 5.3 km long (about 3.5 miles) with a 1 km front straight and a bunch of turns, it has it all. With that many turns, it will be a great track for a MINI. However, before you do this, there are 2 things that are an absolute must for the car. A brake fluid flush with a really good, high temp brake fluid (Motul 600 or the like). The second thing is a set of real race pads for the front brakes. Here in the States I would recommend Carbotech XP10 for a beginner. That front straight will cook street pads and boil not-so-good brake fluid.
If an in-car instructor is available, get one. It is invaluable to having fun. The down side to having that may turns, is a novice will have difficulty figuring it out. That will take the fun out of it. And, the point of doing this is to have fun.
I have done this track thing a “few” times, with a number of MINI friends. If you have questions feel free to ask. If interested I have posted a few videos on YouTube from a few tracks in the NE States. Just do a search on Eddie07S.
#157
11-14-2018, 11:58 PM
OMG - WE HAVE MADE A MONSTER OUT OF THIS GUY!
Careful, now. They don’t call it “track crack” for nothing. Once hooked on “track” you will spend every cent you have on “track” and your car. This could be you:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-project.html
Actually, that looks like a great track. 5.3 km long (about 3.5 miles) with a 1 km front straight and a bunch of turns, it has it all. With that many turns, it will be a great track for a MINI. However, before you do this, there are 2 things that are an absolute must for the car. A brake fluid flush with a really good, high temp brake fluid (Motul 600 or the like). The second thing is a set of real race pads for the front brakes. Here in the States I would recommend Carbotech XP10 for a beginner. That front straight will cook street pads and boil not-so-good brake fluid.
If an in-car instructor is available, get one. It is invaluable to having fun. The down side to having that may turns, is a novice will have difficulty figuring it out. That will take the fun out of it. And, the point of doing this is to have fun.
I have done this track thing a “few” times, with a number of MINI friends. If you have questions feel free to ask. If interested I have posted a few videos on YouTube from a few tracks in the NE States. Just do a search on Eddie07S.
Yes brake fluid flush with RBF600 is a must - but the big JCW pads/discs should be up to the job shouldn't they ?
#158
11-15-2018, 07:41 AM
My concern on that track would be that first turn after that long straight, where you will likely be hitting, maybe, 200 kph and the potential for fade at the end of the straight. And then there is the constant braking for the rest of the turns which may not allow the pads to cool. That said, do you know what you have for pads on your car now (on the front; at this point, rears don’t matter)? While not the best, if you have the factory MINI pads on the front, you could try them, but just be aware that after a few laps they may not be liking what you are doing to them. Other generic street pad, I wouldn’t go out onto a track with them. I have read on NAM here who have faded-out EBC Red Stuff pads just aggressively driving on twisty roads.
Do you have access to EBC Yellow Stuff pads or the Hawk HP+ pads (not the HPS)? This are referred to as “street/track” pads and would be good for a first time out.
Oh, one other thing. Take your dust shields off the brakes. The will allow more cooling of the rotors and caliper.
I know this is a pain, but I have seen enough cases of brake issues where people have complained about “crappy brakes” and it was just because they were using the wrong pads. The one thing that easily drags down the fun of a track day is brake problems. My attention towards brakes is because I want you to be safe and have fun.
#160
11-18-2018, 05:28 AM
Your brakes are the same as the Gen II “S” brakes. Discs and calipers will be fine. Basic street pads generally are not up to the rigors of track use. They tend to not be able to handle the heat that can be generated out on the track and can fade-out or glaze over. I have had a set of “performance” street pads (Hawk HPS) glaze over in 2 - 30 min sessions my second day out ever on the track. The pedal was rock solid, but there was no bite to the pad and braking distances doubled or tripled.
My concern on that track would be that first turn after that long straight, where you will likely be hitting, maybe, 200 kph and the potential for fade at the end of the straight. And then there is the constant braking for the rest of the turns which may not allow the pads to cool. That said, do you know what you have for pads on your car now (on the front; at this point, rears don’t matter)? While not the best, if you have the factory MINI pads on the front, you could try them, but just be aware that after a few laps they may not be liking what you are doing to them. Other generic street pad, I wouldn’t go out onto a track with them. I have read on NAM here who have faded-out EBC Red Stuff pads just aggressively driving on twisty roads.
Do you have access to EBC Yellow Stuff pads or the Hawk HP+ pads (not the HPS)? This are referred to as “street/track” pads and would be good for a first time out.
Oh, one other thing. Take your dust shields off the brakes. The will allow more cooling of the rotors and caliper.
I know this is a pain, but I have seen enough cases of brake issues where people have complained about “crappy brakes” and it was just because they were using the wrong pads. The one thing that easily drags down the fun of a track day is brake problems. My attention towards brakes is because I want you to be safe and have fun.
I took the Mini for its annual inspection and it failed on 2 points- brake pads worn out ( advisory - minor point) and lower control arm bushes (compulsory fix- major point).
Looks like I'll be rolling up the sleeves again 😃
#161
11-18-2018, 06:18 AM
thanks Eddie, entirely sensible and appreciate the concern and sentiment my brother, members like you are a credit to this forum.
I took the Mini for its annual inspection and it failed on 2 points- brake pads worn out ( advisory - minor point) and lower control arm bushes (compulsory fix- major point).
Looks like I'll be rolling up the sleeves again 😃
Lower control arm bushings - Powerflex purple (Poly), or the equivalent! Doesn’t add to noise or vibration but will sharpen up your steering some more.
Brake pads - EBC Red Stuff are very popular with the spirited street driving crowd around here. I would put them in the same category as the stock MINI pads (a step up, actually). I would cautiously say you could try them on the track, but be very aware of the possibility of them fading out. The Yellowstuff will be compatible with the Red Stuff pads, so you can exchange them without fear of pad material incompatiblity. So I would still encourage you to get the track pads for the track.
#162
11-18-2018, 09:52 PM
With the JCW big brake option fitted (pics below) - 294mm discs up front - so the pads are bigger too - 163mm x 140.2mm x 58.8mm.
The EBC Yellow Stuff are readily available on eBay from the UK - around $120 for the front set.
The Hawk HP+ are also available but only from the US - around $150 for the front set and will be more postage.
I'm thinking to go with a set of fairly standard pads for the rears as most of the braking is on the front discs.
Last edited by QatarJCWR53; 11-18-2018 at 10:15 PM.
#163
11-19-2018, 04:50 AM
Yup, yours are the same as the R56 S brakes. The JCW uses a 316x22 mm rotor and a 4 piston Brembo caliper.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...oopS_JCW&mg=34
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...iABEgJDdvD_BwE
The R56 JCW also runs a larger diameter rear brake too.
My 12.2” (309mm) Wilwoods are a “poor man’s” version of the JCW brakes. I can switch those out for 11.75” (298mm) rotors for use with my 15” wheels. On both of these I have had a custom setup made that uses 25.4 mm thick rotors.
Nice find on the Yellow Stuff pads. You can run them on the street, but they may be noisy and over time the will wear your rotors more. If you make a habit out of going to the track all of the time, you will want to upgrade to a more aggressive pad both from and rear.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...oopS_JCW&mg=34
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...iABEgJDdvD_BwE
The R56 JCW also runs a larger diameter rear brake too.
My 12.2” (309mm) Wilwoods are a “poor man’s” version of the JCW brakes. I can switch those out for 11.75” (298mm) rotors for use with my 15” wheels. On both of these I have had a custom setup made that uses 25.4 mm thick rotors.
Nice find on the Yellow Stuff pads. You can run them on the street, but they may be noisy and over time the will wear your rotors more. If you make a habit out of going to the track all of the time, you will want to upgrade to a more aggressive pad both from and rear.
#164
11-19-2018, 04:57 AM
Oh, one other thing to consider doing is to take your pad wear sensor and zip tie it off to the side. I bend mine back into the engine compartment and tie it off there. Just watch the pad wear. I use a little inspection mirror and flashlight to do the inspection. And you will need to inspection the inboard (piston side) pad as that one will wear faster than the outboard pad
#166
11-19-2018, 02:18 PM
Just tell your brake guy that you want the pads for a 2007 - 2013 R56 S and see what pops up. You have the same pads.
That Real0em.com web site is a great resource for part numbers and seeing what is the same.
Where you have tabs on the pads that come out of the side as a bent rectangle, the other pads (R53/R50) have tabs that come off the side of the pad at the top of the side at the intersection with the top of the pad and they look like hooks.
That Real0em.com web site is a great resource for part numbers and seeing what is the same.
Where you have tabs on the pads that come out of the side as a bent rectangle, the other pads (R53/R50) have tabs that come off the side of the pad at the top of the side at the intersection with the top of the pad and they look like hooks.
#167
11-19-2018, 02:21 PM
Here is what the other pad looks like:
https://parts.seattlemini.com/p/MINI...SABEgIGE_D_BwE
https://parts.seattlemini.com/p/MINI...SABEgIGE_D_BwE
#168
11-19-2018, 08:49 PM
Thanks Eddie - great tips on the brakes.
LCA Polybushes ordered and on their way. I'm going to try and do the bushes by removing the LCA from the 2 ball joints - inner and outer - and then forcing the LCA out of the bush at the back. That might require a large pry bar of some kind. I've seen a few clips on the tube and seems a reciprocating saw does well to cut the old bush steel casing out of the mounting bracket. I am thinking it might also be possible with a medium size hacksaw and flipping the blade so the cutting edge is facing inwards, after passing it through the middle of the old bush. Bit more elbow grease needed, but with a good quality blade might be ok. And I think new ball joints would be a good idea - especially as I might butcher one while trying to get the LCAs off !
Seems like installation is not too bad either, as apparently the new polybush can be squeezed in with a long bolt, 2 nuts and some large washers either end and turning the nuts to squeeze it all together - I've even seen one guy hammering the new bush in. He must have been in a hurry
LCA Polybushes ordered and on their way. I'm going to try and do the bushes by removing the LCA from the 2 ball joints - inner and outer - and then forcing the LCA out of the bush at the back. That might require a large pry bar of some kind. I've seen a few clips on the tube and seems a reciprocating saw does well to cut the old bush steel casing out of the mounting bracket. I am thinking it might also be possible with a medium size hacksaw and flipping the blade so the cutting edge is facing inwards, after passing it through the middle of the old bush. Bit more elbow grease needed, but with a good quality blade might be ok. And I think new ball joints would be a good idea - especially as I might butcher one while trying to get the LCAs off !
Seems like installation is not too bad either, as apparently the new polybush can be squeezed in with a long bolt, 2 nuts and some large washers either end and turning the nuts to squeeze it all together - I've even seen one guy hammering the new bush in. He must have been in a hurry
Last edited by QatarJCWR53; 11-19-2018 at 08:57 PM.
#169
11-19-2018, 09:25 PM
But I think the rear pads on mine have tabs off the sides, that do look like hooks ?
I think the rear discs, pads and calipers are the same for all R50, R52 R53.
I have given them the oem BMW part number so let's see what they say.
Last edited by QatarJCWR53; 11-20-2018 at 12:14 AM.
#171
11-26-2018, 02:05 AM
Ok so LCA poly-bushes have arrived - new inner and outer ball joints too for good measure. I'll give it a bash later today if I get half a chance.
Something has started to worry me now. When I first bought the Mini, it wasn't starting up cleanly, from cold or hot, idle was a bit rough and it had a habit of cutting out randomly, while waiting in traffic - I put this down to just needing to give it a full service. But even after a pretty full service (just fuel filter still to do), its still not starting up as it should and still cuts out randomly - the warning lights and guages on the dash go crazy and spontaneously flash on and off, and the needles jump up and down randomly. The AC recirculate button will get cancelled, the dash clock goes blank, the odometer gets zeroed out and sometimes the engine cuts out too - usually the engine will stay running while all this mayhem is taking place. But the saved radio stations never get cancelled from the memory. yesterday was the worst day I can remember for the guages and lights since buying the car - it must have carried on for a good few minutes, while I was stopped at the signal. I should have taken a little clip on the phone.
If all this drama happens when I'm actually moving long, the steering goes really heavy and dash needles/guages go beserk as above. This is really unnerving especially if you are mid-bend and lose the power steering and sometimes engine cuts out too.
Is this normal behaviour for a 12 year old Mini Cooper R53 ?
Any suggestions greatly appreciated chaps.
Something has started to worry me now. When I first bought the Mini, it wasn't starting up cleanly, from cold or hot, idle was a bit rough and it had a habit of cutting out randomly, while waiting in traffic - I put this down to just needing to give it a full service. But even after a pretty full service (just fuel filter still to do), its still not starting up as it should and still cuts out randomly - the warning lights and guages on the dash go crazy and spontaneously flash on and off, and the needles jump up and down randomly. The AC recirculate button will get cancelled, the dash clock goes blank, the odometer gets zeroed out and sometimes the engine cuts out too - usually the engine will stay running while all this mayhem is taking place. But the saved radio stations never get cancelled from the memory. yesterday was the worst day I can remember for the guages and lights since buying the car - it must have carried on for a good few minutes, while I was stopped at the signal. I should have taken a little clip on the phone.
If all this drama happens when I'm actually moving long, the steering goes really heavy and dash needles/guages go beserk as above. This is really unnerving especially if you are mid-bend and lose the power steering and sometimes engine cuts out too.
Is this normal behaviour for a 12 year old Mini Cooper R53 ?
Any suggestions greatly appreciated chaps.
#173
11-26-2018, 04:47 AM
Ok so LCA poly-bushes have arrived - new inner and outer ball joints too for good measure. I'll give it a bash later today if I get half a chance.
Something has started to worry me now. When I first bought the Mini, it wasn't starting up cleanly, from cold or hot, idle was a bit rough and it had a habit of cutting out randomly, while waiting in traffic - I put this down to just needing to give it a full service. But even after a pretty full service (just fuel filter still to do), its still not starting up as it should and still cuts out randomly - the warning lights and guages on the dash go crazy and spontaneously flash on and off, and the needles jump up and down randomly. The AC recirculate button will get cancelled, the dash clock goes blank, the odometer gets zeroed out and sometimes the engine cuts out too - usually the engine will stay running while all this mayhem is taking place. But the saved radio stations never get cancelled from the memory. yesterday was the worst day I can remember for the guages and lights since buying the car - it must have carried on for a good few minutes, while I was stopped at the signal. I should have taken a little clip on the phone.
If all this drama happens when I'm actually moving long, the steering goes really heavy and dash needles/guages go beserk as above. This is really unnerving especially if you are mid-bend and lose the power steering and sometimes engine cuts out too.
Is this normal behaviour for a 12 year old Mini Cooper R53 ?
Any suggestions greatly appreciated chaps.
Something has started to worry me now. When I first bought the Mini, it wasn't starting up cleanly, from cold or hot, idle was a bit rough and it had a habit of cutting out randomly, while waiting in traffic - I put this down to just needing to give it a full service. But even after a pretty full service (just fuel filter still to do), its still not starting up as it should and still cuts out randomly - the warning lights and guages on the dash go crazy and spontaneously flash on and off, and the needles jump up and down randomly. The AC recirculate button will get cancelled, the dash clock goes blank, the odometer gets zeroed out and sometimes the engine cuts out too - usually the engine will stay running while all this mayhem is taking place. But the saved radio stations never get cancelled from the memory. yesterday was the worst day I can remember for the guages and lights since buying the car - it must have carried on for a good few minutes, while I was stopped at the signal. I should have taken a little clip on the phone.
If all this drama happens when I'm actually moving long, the steering goes really heavy and dash needles/guages go beserk as above. This is really unnerving especially if you are mid-bend and lose the power steering and sometimes engine cuts out too.
Is this normal behaviour for a 12 year old Mini Cooper R53 ?
Any suggestions greatly appreciated chaps.
Computer or wiring to the computer issue? Truly just guessing here.
If you don’t get much in the way of responses to this question here, you might want to start a new thread in the stock issues and problems area for first gen MINIs with this as the title. That way it will get its own attention and you might get a better response. You can link from this thread to the new one to connect the two threads. Hope you figure it out.
#174
11-26-2018, 08:31 PM
And early this morning, just after a short 2 minute drive, for the first time ever in my ownership, I turned the car off and the power went dead completely. No interior lights anywhere, nothing at all. Tried turning it back on, nothing at all. It was exactly like the battery had been disconnected. So I checked it out and was pulling on the connectors -ve and +ve sides to see if they were tight - and as I was fiddling with the +ve side the lights came back on - there is a small plastic box attached (?fuse) on the +ve battery cable, with a thin brown wire coming out the side which seemed very loose at the connectors. Anyway, started it back up and all ok since.
I'll put up a post on the Issues and Problems section and see what comes up.
I'll put up a post on the Issues and Problems section and see what comes up.
