$500 R53 Endurance Racecar Build - Page 2 - North American Motoring


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$500 R53 Endurance Racecar Build

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  #26  
Old 03-21-2018, 12:02 PM
angusp angusp is offline
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Slowly removing parts from the engine bay while waiting for all the new parts to arrive.
The coolant came out clear and blue which is a good sign, it looks like the cooling system is in good shape without any corrosion/scum/rust in it.

The front came off last night:


Looks like the crank position sensor might have a small leak, maybe the oil dipstick tube too:
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  #27  
Old 04-04-2018, 10:27 AM
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A bit of an update in my game of "What else is leaking oil?"

One of the axle boots was torn and spraying grease all over the oil cooler and subframe, but it's a tiny hole and the CV still seems ok.

Front subframe is out. Dropping it was easy enough once I worked out that the steering u-joint swiveled up. It needs a good clean-up but all the bushings and ball-joints look good. The control arms and sway bar are getting poly bushings.
I found a second-hand power steering pump and steering rack locally for $50, I'll convert one rack to manual by filling it with grease but keep the power steering for now, with the new pump and hoses.





Dropped the transmission in search for more leaks, found one or two



To my surprise the clutch is toast. The paperwork says it's only 30k miles old, so must have been slipping with all the oil in the bell housing. I found a great deal on an unused and unwanted valeo single mass conversion kit, so that will be going back in to replace the stock clutch.



It's not clear if this thick layer of goo is from the rear main seal or the oil pan gasket, both are getting replaced anyway. I'm assuming the transmission input seal is good since the shaft was dry and not oily, although I have a new seal for that too.



Transmission after a few hours of hand cleaning. No luxury of a parts washer or pressure cleaner in my garage.



I took the clutch release fork out to clean everything up, but I can't seem to find any torque specs on the transmission internals like the shaft to fork or the guide tube. Does anyone know a place to find these?

The parts shelf is getting full. I found a good deal on facelift halogen lights so I'll swap those in and sell off the stock xeons for a bit of profit, less weight and some extra simplicity.

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  #28  
Old 04-04-2018, 10:46 AM
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Wow! You're doing some great work!
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  #29  
Old 04-04-2018, 11:42 AM
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megaDan megaDan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiniTigger View Post
Wow! You're doing some great work!
Heck yeah. Lookin good!

The first time I dropped the subframe the steering U-joint was my biggest issue too. I had to walk away and come back before I figured it out. Not one of my best moments, but it took many HARD whacks with a 3lb sledge to get it loose.

I'm about to start my 3rd subframe drop in ~5 months in the coming weeks. As soon as I get my Z off the lift. Shooting for a new record time haha.
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  #30  
Old 04-10-2018, 10:43 AM
angusp angusp is offline
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The further I dig into the engine the more small parts or seals I need to order which is slowing down progress a little, but I should hit a critical mass soon and be able to put everything back together within the next week.

New thermostat housing before installation. The OEM one looked fine and was only 30k miles old, but this metal one was only $14 and now I have the plastic OEM one as spare.


Oil cooler filter housing and cooler is off, which made changing the timing chain tensioner a snap. Whoever tightened the oil drain plug to a few hundred ft/lb also tightened the 36mm oil filter housing to about 1 million ft/lbs.


New rear main seal is in, this should hopefully take care of one of the major oil leaks.


All of the A/C components in the engine bar are removed now, which should make installing the transmission a little easier. The engine wiring harness is also completely removed, so hopefully I can remember where everything goes! The intake is off but there's not much to do there, just some cleaning.


The latest curiosity was hiding in the oil pan. The interior and and exterior surface of the casting has what I can describe best as "scaling" or "crackling", which makes it a huge pain to clean (it's like cleaning coarse sand paper). I kind of doubt that a casting finish like this would pass inspection and leave the factory, so that makes me wonder if this oil pan is starting to show signs of cracking, maybe due to some original manufacturing defect. Has anyone else seen a Mini oil pan like this? It could be normal for all I know, but it does look odd. I'll clean this one up for now but I will be consider a cheap $50 aftermarket pan if this is something out of the ordinary. The last thing I want is to oil up a track.

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  #31  
Old 04-10-2018, 11:18 AM
Alan Alan is offline
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Both my spare oil pans have small areas with the same kind of "scaling" or "crackling" so it does seem to be normal. Not sure if it is safe, although I have not heard of an oil pan failure.
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  #32  
Old 04-12-2018, 08:31 AM
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Same here. The oil pan on my kid's 200K+ car had the same texture as what you shared.


Cleaned up oil pan, weird surface cracking visible.
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  #33  
Old 04-12-2018, 08:44 AM
MrBlah MrBlah is offline
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put in a baffle while you are there, I use one from RMW
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  #34  
Old 04-12-2018, 01:30 PM
angusp angusp is offline
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Thanks for the replies! It's good to know it's not just mine. I'm thinking about making my own baffle, the off-the-shelf ones are a bit spendy for this budget build.

Now for the next question!

The passenger/RH inner CV boot was torn, so I bought a new Rein boot kit. It wasn't the right boot so I bought a GKN one from a different vendor which is also wrong, now I'm wondering if I have an after-market driveshaft since all the boots I find look like the wrong ones, or perhaps I have a driveshaft from a year other than 2005?

This is the boot style I bought. My broken driveshaft boot doesn't have the three lobes in it, and the mating bearing cup is just a smooth cylinder on the exterior, not the three lobe cup that matches this boot.

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  #35  
Old 04-12-2018, 02:45 PM
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sending you a PM
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  #36  
Old 04-12-2018, 03:36 PM
RudeJoe RudeJoe is offline
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Inner CV Boot - It may not help but I replaced the inner CV boots on my '06 manual R52 MCS last summer and they were the 3 lobe design as in your picture.
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  #37  
Old 04-12-2018, 04:39 PM
RudeJoe RudeJoe is offline
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aftermarket

Image posted in another current/active thread. Apparently from OReilly's and it appears to have a plain cylindrical housing.
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0 R53 Endurance Racecar Build-drive-shaft.jpg  
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  #38  
Old 04-18-2018, 05:19 PM
angusp angusp is offline
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Lots of progress over the last week, now that most of the parts are here.

Control arm bushings have been replaced with poly bushings. This was a super quick job using the hydraulic press at work. I had a bearing race install set that had a disc the perfect size for the bushing.





Took the crank pulley off to replace the front crankshaft seal and the timing cover gasket. Pulling the crank pulley was a fun game. I was lucky to have enough punches/rods/bolts to make it work but having some correct length HSS rods would make the job a lot easier next time.




The transmission is finally back in. Since the struts, A/C system, wheel well liners and wiring harness were all removed, getting it into place was actually pretty simple with a ratchet strap from the top and a floor jack from the bottom. Not too difficult with one person, probably easier with two.




Engine mounts are back in with the leaky mount replaced, which just leaves a lot of the smaller bolt-on's and of course the wiring harness to do next.

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  #39  
Old 04-19-2018, 04:43 AM
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Coming along very nicely!
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  #40  
Old 05-07-2018, 11:39 AM
angusp angusp is offline
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It's been a while since the last update, things are still moving along just a little slower with the other race car taking some time away from the Mini.

Engine is all back together. I hung the radiator for a quick startup test and everything runs nicely, no leaks or parts falling off yet I'm pretty pleased that everything just worked and the engine fired right up, given this is the most I've ever torn apart an engine bay.
I wasn't sure how to prime the oil system since it was totally drained, so I just cranked the engine for 10s with the fuel pump removed.
Almost hidden in this photo are the new plugs/wires and cheap-o aluminium coolant tank I picked up in China.
The front subframe needs a few more things to be bolted back on then it will be reinstalled, and that will be the end of the major front-end maintenance work. Then it's time to check over the rear end while I work on the interior.




Getting the front lower control arm inner ball joints out was not easy! Using the BFH failed pretty quickly, then the ball joint removal tool started bending itself and the threaded ends of the ball joint, even after soaking everything in penetrating oil and applying liberal heat. I decided to go for overkill and put them in the hydraulic press at work. After about 6-7 tons of pressure they finally popped out with a nice loud bang.
Starting with the press could have saved a few hours of manual work, there's nothing quite like the right (over-sized) tool for the job.




While taking a break from the ball joints I decided to "just" take out the heater matrix blower fan A/C evaporator monstrosity behind the dash.
The dash pad comes off pretty easy once you read the TIS, then the dash frame/trim almost falls off. I tried for a while to see how the matrix monster would come out but eventually just removed the dash frame/cross-member and the matrix just lifted out. It must be one of the first things installed in the interior after the sound deadening and wiring loom.
The heating/cooling matrix is huge and weighs a good amount, so it's good to get rid of it, although now it's taking up valuable garage space.




With most of the interior parts removed now I'm getting a good mental map of how the interior wiring loom looks. Next up for the interior will be pulling all the sound deadening out, then pulling the loom out and removing all the unused copper.
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