Hello. New to the site and the Mini Not sure where to post this. When purchasing an MCS with the sport package, you automatically get 17" wheels. After research and soul searching, I would prefer to get 16" or even 15" if possible, and was wondering if anyone has had any experiences with making that switch pre-delivery with the dealer, i.e. Here Mr./Mrs dealer, you can have the 17s back and give me something smaller. Are dealers open to this sort of thing? Would they offer a discount to go down to 15"? Would I be better off selling them myself?

Speaking of new wheels, I have heard anecdotes that Fix-a-flat and other such products can be caustic to alloy wheels. Anyone hear of this? No real experience of this myself, just something I heard from a mechanic.

Very much a newbie with the Mini. Was orginally looking at the STi but a quick drive in the MCS made my decision a bit more difficult - it's all about the driving experience, agaility and nimbleness. Amazing what a difference low weight makes in an automobile. Inertia? Never heard of it. STi and Mini are very much an apples and oranges deal, and I have to decide on whether I want apples or oranges. Great car and I can only imagine what it is like with the JCW package. You should have seen the face of the Subaru dealer when i mentioned I was interested in the Mini

Anyone have the JCW package with 15s or 16s? If so, any problem with traction/torque steer? I read over some of the posts regarding down-sizing wheels and don't remember this being covered. Apologies if it has been.

Thank you and you folks seem like a nice crowd, the first round is on me.

 

Welcome to NAM, mg5904! Rather than order the sports package when I spec'd Wanda, I got everything from the package ala carte, so I could order the 16-inchers, with the v-spokes. They're much lighter than the 17s.:smile:

I don't know how to answer your questions about JCW...but I'm sure someone here can and will!

Do you mean to say that the Scooby salesperson wasn't impressed?

Clover

 

mg, welcome to NAM. I went from the 17" wheels down to 15s and have zero regrets, best modification I've made to my car thus far. As far as your question regarding the dealer swapping the wheels, unfortunately I believe the 15" wheels available from MINI have a maximum width of only 5.5 inches. This width is somewhat constricting, ideally you'd want to run a 6.5 or even better, a 7" wide wheel which is why the aftermarket is a good way to go when upgrading wheels and tires. You can sell your 17s with the stock runflats for a good amount and then turn around and buy 15s with better tires with the money.

 

Can't offer anything other than I love having 15" rims

 

Welcome mg5904!!! Cutomizing even before you've got the car? Way to go! I've got the 16's v-spokes like Clo's Wicked Wanda on my MCS. Really, really like them.

Godspeed.

 

opps, that's my Mini not my MINI

 

I have had my MCS JCW for one year this week. I have been running on the 17" S-lites and about 2 months ago switched the tires from the run-flats to non-runflats (Khumo MX). The driving experience improved significatly with more grip, better handling, and more driving feel. Well, this past weekend I also bought a set (slightly used) of 16" Kosie K1 Racing rims (14-15 lbs) with Falken Azenis Holy Crap!!! It is like a new car that has been waiting to get out!! The grip is even better with the tires, but the improvement is the acceleration and throttle response. Admittedly, I wont run the Azenis all the time since they are much louder the ride is a little rougher. For my daily 190 miles round-trip commute it's not the bext choice. But I will go with two sets of rims/wheels and wont hesitate to switch back and forth when I need the extra power and handling!

GO FOR THE MINI!!!!!

 

Welcome mg5904. If you want the Sports Package you will have to deal with the fact you only get 17’s with it. I do not know of any dealer that will swap out for 16’s. However as said before you can sell them for a good price and put the 15’s or 16’s on.

If you have any desire to race auto-x in the stock class you need to know that 16’s and 17’s are the only size you can use on a MCS because those are the only size offered on the stock models.

 

More than likely if you down size to 16's you will have to buy them from the dealer.

 

mg5904,

Aloha and welcome to NAM.
When considering the sports package look to see if you are going to make use of each of those items. If so then order the sports package and sell the 17" wheels to buy light 15x6.5 or 15x7" rims and non runflat tires. Many of us do not use DSC but it is good for the average driver driving on the street.
The MCS already has sport seats. The Xenon lights are cool but the older style ones sometimes have trouble and fail, the normal headlights work OK but are not as bright or blue tinted.

My dealership does swap out 17" wheels for 16" wheels when they can but you get no credit for your more expensive 17" wheels. They can then sell the 17" wheels to another buyer for more $$$. I'd recommend 16" wheels for the MCS if you decide not to get the sports package or just buy only those things that you will use. The 17" wheels are quite heavy and the ride is a bit rougher.

Fix a flat?- Just talk to any tire specialty shop and ask them that question.

JCW kit on an MCS is good but also expensive. You can do a few mods for $1500 and get similar performance but no warranty. We do have owners with JCW using 16" wheels and it works fine. It's always better to have lighter wheels. Non runflats also will give a smoother and better performing and handling ride.

No problem with traction or torque steer and JCW unless you really floor it or the road has loose debris. The key to taming any torque steer and wheel spin is to be smooth and even in throttle from the start, not abrupt. Take one out for a test drive or find an owner with JCW and see for yourself.

 

mg5904,


I would not get the sport package if you are not intersted in getting the 17" rims. I would also not order the DSC. Of course everyone has there own opinion, but I found it cut in too often and ruined the driving experience. The ASC+T was plenty good enough. Without the DSC and 17" wheels you will save some money.

I have the 16" wheels and love it.

 

If you switch out 17" wheels for a smaller size, don't you have to re-calibrate the speedometer?

 

The speed-o is already inaccurate no matter what tire or wheel you use so I don’t think that’s a big problem.

 

The speedo is inaccurate, anyway! If you have the onboard computer, you can get the most accurate speed by zeroing out the average speed function, and when it comes back on, it will show you your true speed.


Clover

 

I ordered all the Sports Package things ala cart so I wouldn't get stuck with the 17" wheels. I believe the 17" wheels weigh around 25 lbs. The 16" R84 wheels are about 16.9 lbs. Before you modify your car decide if you want to autocross it in stock class. Running in stock class places severe restrictions on what you can do to the car. I'm running 16x6.5" SSR Comps that weigh in at 11 pounds. Lightweight rims and race rubber are the best mod you can make to your car.

 

I don't believe so. The 15, 16, and 17" tires all have the same circumference; the difference is in the size of the wheels. Larger wheels go with smaller (in terms of depth from the wheels) tires equal same total radius from axle/wheel center and same total circumference, rotations per mile/hr, etc.

If I'm wrong someone please chime in!

 

one reason I opted for the 16" R84 wheels is that it's the lightest OEM MCS wheel out of the factory, and it looks great for a stock wheel!

And the first 2 MCS's I demo'd had 16 V-spoke and 17 inch S-lite (NOT!) wheels, the difference was significant: the car felt literally lighter on its feet and rode a tad smoother; the 17s were like running sprints with lead boots: car felt ponderous, rough, porky.

And yes count me in the pro 15" wheel club--especially for snow tires :smile: There, narrow is good. Jimbo

 

No, the different size tires definitely have different circumference/radii/diameter. Hopefully I don't mess up the explanation, but here goes.

For a tire size of 215/45 R17. The inside diameter is 17", and the tread width will be 215 mm. The sidewall is then 45% of the tread width.

With my recent switch from 17" to 16" (both 215/45) there is a height difference of a little over 1". Therefore, with an original tire height of about 24 inches, this is a decrease of a little under 5%.

So, extrapolating this out a little further, the tire circumference is decrease from about 76" to about 72" (decrease of 5%). Therefore, if the 16" tire is driven the same number of rotations for which the 17" tire traveled one mile, you will be 260 feet short of one mile (decrease of 5%....seeing the trend).

What does that mean for the speedometer....you got it.....5% off. So when the gumballs catch you at 63 mph in a 55 instead of 60 mph you thought you were traveling....it may mean the difference in getting a ticket or not!

 

OK - 2 things

1. I have a 2005 MC/s with the 17" runflats and the ride is great. Not a Lincoln Continental ride, but not harsh and very driveable. If you are not wanting the 17's because you have been convinced that the street ride is bad, they have fixed it on the 2005 with different shocks.

2. If you want to race this car, you really should have two sets of wheels. The racing tires wear too fast and have poor traction in wet roads, and are not suitable for street use. Why not get the 17's for everyday, and some 16's with suitable tires for autocross. No one set of wheels and tires will do both well. The MC/S has no place to put a spare, so the run-flats are a good compromise for the street.

Also, do not confuse the Fix-a-flat aerosol type flat fixers with the green slime type flat fixers with a portable compressor. The aerosols contain a flammable gas which poses a danger to the next guy who changes the tire, and the green slime makes it difficult if not impossible to patch the tire from within, as recommended by the tire manufacturers. The slime is thrown away from the wheel itself by the centrifugal force of the tire rotation. I do not remember reading that either is caustic to aluminum or magnesium wheels. Mini offers a kit with the green slime and a small compressor, so it must be acceptable to use that method.

 

A simple plug kit and a portable compressor can be had for around $35 from your local Walmart. The plug kit is a good temporary fix until you can get to a repair station and have it properly patched. No mess no fuss.

 

Thank you everyone for the great answers. I guess it is back to miniusa.com to look back over the package options. I guess i should really try and do a comparo testdrive between 16s and 17s. Hopefully won't be too much a pain the rear for the dealer. The thought of lighter, smaller wheels and some nice sticky tires though thas me intrigued - really seems to fit the character of the car - light, nimble, agile and eminently tossable (with respect to JoeDentist's experience and advice re 17s, thank you sir). I imagine that when coupled to a 210hp '05 JCW package ($$$ I know, but the warranty is worth it to me) that you have a real pocket rocket! And then with JCW seats and suspension package . . . pardon me, I'm getting a little carried away. Guess i should really look into the SCCA rules and regs as well as a drivers school (Limerock?).

Anyone have any experience with Mini's in the snow with snow shoes installed (on the car that is)?

 

Not snow tires proper, but on one of my demo drives (16" A/S tires) I went over a snowpacked mountain pass west of Denver and the all-season tires did fine (no DSC). A fellow motorer runs 185/65R15 Blizzaks on salvage 15" 8-spoke OEM MC alloys on her MCS and it's actually better than many SUVs in terms of traction and predictability--low center of gravity is a real plus. Just so unplowed snow's not too deep, and tall narrow tires are a must.

 

"What does that mean for the speedometer....you got it.....5% off. So when the gumballs catch you at 63 mph in a 55 instead of 60 mph you thought you were traveling....it may mean the difference in getting a ticket or not!"

Does this also throw off the odometer???