R50/53 The $1,800 03 Cooper S adventure...
#26
Well I have a few updates.
1. Got the head off last night and gave it a full look over.
2. I got a new long block ordered.
I got a great deal from a UK breaker for a complete long block with only 74k miles and a 90 day warranty. Only $790 + shipping. I was looking at a company that sells re manufactured short blocks for around $1,000 W11b16(PM me if you want details) but I really want the spare parts from the long block if anything in that head needs replaced. No clue on how long it will take to get here.
The head came out with a bit of some pain from the side caps covering the timing guide bolts. 2 hours to get one off. Pictures to come of that little B^$turd. The head looks like new pretty much. The valve train is flawless and looks like it was put in yesterday.
Piston 4 does look like it lightly made contact with a valve, but the valves look untouched. Needless to say I'll inspect for any damage to the shafts or the valves when I take it all apart. This is where having the spare head will be a nice touch is anything is off. If everything is great, I'll just sell the spare head and recoup some of the engine costs.
1. Got the head off last night and gave it a full look over.
2. I got a new long block ordered.
I got a great deal from a UK breaker for a complete long block with only 74k miles and a 90 day warranty. Only $790 + shipping. I was looking at a company that sells re manufactured short blocks for around $1,000 W11b16(PM me if you want details) but I really want the spare parts from the long block if anything in that head needs replaced. No clue on how long it will take to get here.
The head came out with a bit of some pain from the side caps covering the timing guide bolts. 2 hours to get one off. Pictures to come of that little B^$turd. The head looks like new pretty much. The valve train is flawless and looks like it was put in yesterday.
Piston 4 does look like it lightly made contact with a valve, but the valves look untouched. Needless to say I'll inspect for any damage to the shafts or the valves when I take it all apart. This is where having the spare head will be a nice touch is anything is off. If everything is great, I'll just sell the spare head and recoup some of the engine costs.
#28
Picked up everything to clean and lap the head. I'll probably start that this weekend and bag it up when done to wait for the block.
I think I'm going to go ahead and put on the WMW 15% pulley package and the DDMWorks intake while I'm getting this all back together on the other side. Most of these parts are upgrades to parts I'll need anyway. (plugs, belt, air filter, etc) Mine as well put those dollar bills to something that wont be replaced.
I did find out something cool. WayMotorWorks is actually right there in Atlanta, where I am moving back to. So it'll be nice to have a local shop and supplier in town.
I think I'm going to go ahead and put on the WMW 15% pulley package and the DDMWorks intake while I'm getting this all back together on the other side. Most of these parts are upgrades to parts I'll need anyway. (plugs, belt, air filter, etc) Mine as well put those dollar bills to something that wont be replaced.
I did find out something cool. WayMotorWorks is actually right there in Atlanta, where I am moving back to. So it'll be nice to have a local shop and supplier in town.
#32
Engine is on the way. Says it'll be here within 2 weeks, but we will see.
Went ahead and ordered the Reinz head rebuild kit and lower end rebuild kit. That'll be enough for what I can do before I move to another garage.
I'll get started on tearing down the head and cleaning it this weekend. I got all the tools to clean it up and lap the valves.
Went ahead and ordered the Reinz head rebuild kit and lower end rebuild kit. That'll be enough for what I can do before I move to another garage.
I'll get started on tearing down the head and cleaning it this weekend. I got all the tools to clean it up and lap the valves.
#35
There are two caps that cover the top bolts that retain the tops of the timing chain guides. You have to remove these caps to get to the two bolts. These two bolts have to be removed to access the left side 3 head bolts. So, you cannot get off the head if you can't get these two caps off.
the ISSUE is, they are made of VERY soft aluminum and take a 10mm hex head. I have to use a 2ft breaker bar to get one off, and the other one completely stripped out.
So, i drilled and punched, and tried 20 things until I rammed a huge chisel down it's throat and hammered at it with the impact wrench until it broke free.
PITA. No clue why they were torqued on so tight.
the ISSUE is, they are made of VERY soft aluminum and take a 10mm hex head. I have to use a 2ft breaker bar to get one off, and the other one completely stripped out.
So, i drilled and punched, and tried 20 things until I rammed a huge chisel down it's throat and hammered at it with the impact wrench until it broke free.
PITA. No clue why they were torqued on so tight.
#36
#37
#40
#41
#44
Valves are all lapped, but I need to test next. I'll try to knock that out this week as I am attempting to pack. A little soapy water and an air hose behind the valve. Look for bubbles.
So, right now it looks like about $1,400 in parts left for the rebuild. Including fluids, battery, and misc.
Engine:
Belt tensioner - ACDelco
Idler pulley - ACDelco
water pump - Melling
Fuel filter - Amazon
Oil filter kit from WMW with magnetic plug.
Thermostat - Wahler
Oil Pump - Melling
Ignition coil pack - Prenco
Spark plug wires. 8mm - Taylor red
Head stud kit - ARP
Tensioner stop - Alta
Alta CAI - on the way. Only paid $112 for it.
Victor Reinz head rebuild kit and lower end conversion kit - On the way.
WMW Supercharger package - 17% with belt and plugs.
Transmission:
Valeo flywheel conversion kit and clutch
Redline MTL fluid
Guide sleeve
Input shaft seal
Clutch release arm bushing kit
Misc:
Zerex GO5 coolant
Castrol Edge 5w-30 - I hear this is the highest recommended??
Supercharger oil
Battery - Everstart Maxx
So, right now it looks like about $1,400 in parts left for the rebuild. Including fluids, battery, and misc.
Engine:
Belt tensioner - ACDelco
Idler pulley - ACDelco
water pump - Melling
Fuel filter - Amazon
Oil filter kit from WMW with magnetic plug.
Thermostat - Wahler
Oil Pump - Melling
Ignition coil pack - Prenco
Spark plug wires. 8mm - Taylor red
Head stud kit - ARP
Tensioner stop - Alta
Alta CAI - on the way. Only paid $112 for it.
Victor Reinz head rebuild kit and lower end conversion kit - On the way.
WMW Supercharger package - 17% with belt and plugs.
Transmission:
Valeo flywheel conversion kit and clutch
Redline MTL fluid
Guide sleeve
Input shaft seal
Clutch release arm bushing kit
Misc:
Zerex GO5 coolant
Castrol Edge 5w-30 - I hear this is the highest recommended??
Supercharger oil
Battery - Everstart Maxx
Last edited by KnighTT; 08-03-2016 at 10:38 AM.
#45
#46
-Any popular purple degreaser. First to clean, and then to use while you are doing the below.
-Engine brush kit for passages and bolt threads. Brass and plastic bristles.
-2" and 1" brass brush on a higher RPM drill. Light pressure. Takes anything right off without damaging the aluminum.
-Then a good bath when you are done and blow it all out to make sure no FOD is left behind.
Worked great.
You can use this by hand, or attach to a drill to get into passages and ports.
-Engine brush kit for passages and bolt threads. Brass and plastic bristles.
-2" and 1" brass brush on a higher RPM drill. Light pressure. Takes anything right off without damaging the aluminum.
-Then a good bath when you are done and blow it all out to make sure no FOD is left behind.
Worked great.
You can use this by hand, or attach to a drill to get into passages and ports.
#48
Well, still waiting on the engine to arrive. I think it shipped out a little later than they told me, but should be in the state today.
So, while I was bored....
-Blacked out the beltline. I know a lot of people tape it, but I just did a VHT black epoxy and it was simple as ****.
-Blacked out the side emblems, did a dark red background, and smoked the turn signals. Plasti dip, VHT Nite Shades.
-Plasti dipped the hood scoop and headlight surrounds.
-Plasti dipped the gas cap. This is what I did first and found out how eaaasy plasti dip is to work with.
-I am also doing something really cool to the tail lights, but that will come after the finished product is completed.
Oh yeah, and this!
Red Plasti Dip. Matte
These are super easy to just pop off.
I like how the hint or red turned out in the background.
So, while I was bored....
-Blacked out the beltline. I know a lot of people tape it, but I just did a VHT black epoxy and it was simple as ****.
-Blacked out the side emblems, did a dark red background, and smoked the turn signals. Plasti dip, VHT Nite Shades.
-Plasti dipped the hood scoop and headlight surrounds.
-Plasti dipped the gas cap. This is what I did first and found out how eaaasy plasti dip is to work with.
-I am also doing something really cool to the tail lights, but that will come after the finished product is completed.
Oh yeah, and this!
Red Plasti Dip. Matte
These are super easy to just pop off.
I like how the hint or red turned out in the background.