Well I have a few updates.

1. Got the head off last night and gave it a full look over.
2. I got a new long block ordered.

I got a great deal from a UK breaker for a complete long block with only 74k miles and a 90 day warranty. Only $790 + shipping. I was looking at a company that sells re manufactured short blocks for around $1,000 W11b16(PM me if you want details) but I really want the spare parts from the long block if anything in that head needs replaced. No clue on how long it will take to get here.

The head came out with a bit of some pain from the side caps covering the timing guide bolts. 2 hours to get one off. Pictures to come of that little B^$turd. The head looks like new pretty much. The valve train is flawless and looks like it was put in yesterday.

Piston 4 does look like it lightly made contact with a valve, but the valves look untouched. Needless to say I'll inspect for any damage to the shafts or the valves when I take it all apart. This is where having the spare head will be a nice touch is anything is off. If everything is great, I'll just sell the spare head and recoup some of the engine costs.

 

a light valve touch can be lapped back in no problem. just make sure its not bent too much since they are sodium filled, and theres only so much material =D

 

Picked up everything to clean and lap the head. I'll probably start that this weekend and bag it up when done to wait for the block.

I think I'm going to go ahead and put on the WMW 15% pulley package and the DDMWorks intake while I'm getting this all back together on the other side. Most of these parts are upgrades to parts I'll need anyway. (plugs, belt, air filter, etc) Mine as well put those dollar bills to something that wont be replaced.

I did find out something cool. WayMotorWorks is actually right there in Atlanta, where I am moving back to. So it'll be nice to have a local shop and supplier in town.

 

$@^& YOU!! $@^& YOU!! $@^& YOU!!

 

Over cyl#4 where the rod exploded. Looks OK.

 

Cheers.

 

Engine is on the way. Says it'll be here within 2 weeks, but we will see.

Went ahead and ordered the Reinz head rebuild kit and lower end rebuild kit. That'll be enough for what I can do before I move to another garage.

I'll get started on tearing down the head and cleaning it this weekend. I got all the tools to clean it up and lap the valves.

 

Muh-FAKta! (Just invented that word. Seems legit in this case.)

 

So I'm new to interior engine parts. I can see that this is very effed up. What exactly am I looking at?

 

There are two caps that cover the top bolts that retain the tops of the timing chain guides. You have to remove these caps to get to the two bolts. These two bolts have to be removed to access the left side 3 head bolts. So, you cannot get off the head if you can't get these two caps off.

the ISSUE is, they are made of VERY soft aluminum and take a 10mm hex head. I have to use a 2ft breaker bar to get one off, and the other one completely stripped out.

So, i drilled and punched, and tried 20 things until I rammed a huge chisel down it's throat and hammered at it with the impact wrench until it broke free.

PITA. No clue why they were torqued on so tight.

 

Well the head work is done. Just waiting now on the valve seals to arrive so put it back together.

Head cleaned, de-burred, surfaced, valves ground and polished, and valves lapped.




Always-label-everything.




Grabbed this at Autozone. $20. Worked decently well but a bit of a pain.

 

I actually found an Alta CAI on Amazon warehouse deals last night and grabbed it up.

Only $110.

I was going to go DDM works, but I can't pass up this for half the price almost. Plus, it was the red one. Sexy.

 

I'm loving all the photos and updates. Like I said, new to the inside of what makes the car go. Will be following this rebuild.

 

Me too! Time for some good 'ole forum-self-education!

 

I don't know if it's cyl 1 or 4 on the right of your pic, but is that a nick in the top edge near the valve seat of the combustion chamber?

 

Yep. Piston head smacked into the head lightly. Looks like it only hit it once.

I've inspected it and smoothed the edges. All inside the fire line. All good. All 4 of those valves are in prefect condition as well.

 

how you get that so clean?

Did the valves hold water? That's how I always test for bent valves

 

Valve seat testing is next.

 

Valves are all lapped, but I need to test next. I'll try to knock that out this week as I am attempting to pack. A little soapy water and an air hose behind the valve. Look for bubbles.

So, right now it looks like about $1,400 in parts left for the rebuild. Including fluids, battery, and misc.

Engine:
Belt tensioner - ACDelco
Idler pulley - ACDelco
water pump - Melling
Fuel filter - Amazon
Oil filter kit from WMW with magnetic plug.
Thermostat - Wahler
Oil Pump - Melling
Ignition coil pack - Prenco
Spark plug wires. 8mm - Taylor red
Head stud kit - ARP
Tensioner stop - Alta
Alta CAI - on the way. Only paid $112 for it.
Victor Reinz head rebuild kit and lower end conversion kit - On the way.
WMW Supercharger package - 17% with belt and plugs.

Transmission:
Valeo flywheel conversion kit and clutch
Redline MTL fluid
Guide sleeve
Input shaft seal
Clutch release arm bushing kit

Misc:
Zerex GO5 coolant
Castrol Edge 5w-30 - I hear this is the highest recommended??
Supercharger oil
Battery - Everstart Maxx

 

so how did you get the head that clean? there is a little bit of surface area kept skuffed on these so the headgaskets seat/grip into the metal

 

-Any popular purple degreaser. First to clean, and then to use while you are doing the below.
-Engine brush kit for passages and bolt threads. Brass and plastic bristles.
-2" and 1" brass brush on a higher RPM drill. Light pressure. Takes anything right off without damaging the aluminum.
-Then a good bath when you are done and blow it all out to make sure no FOD is left behind.

Worked great.







You can use this by hand, or attach to a drill to get into passages and ports.

 

I'm using amsoil 5w-30 in mine. I think the factory spec is 5w-20, but I'm sure and have read elsewhere that 5w-30 is fine.

 

Well, still waiting on the engine to arrive. I think it shipped out a little later than they told me, but should be in the state today.

So, while I was bored....

-Blacked out the beltline. I know a lot of people tape it, but I just did a VHT black epoxy and it was simple as ****.
-Blacked out the side emblems, did a dark red background, and smoked the turn signals. Plasti dip, VHT Nite Shades.
-Plasti dipped the hood scoop and headlight surrounds.
-Plasti dipped the gas cap. This is what I did first and found out how eaaasy plasti dip is to work with.
-I am also doing something really cool to the tail lights, but that will come after the finished product is completed.

Oh yeah, and this!



Red Plasti Dip. Matte



These are super easy to just pop off.



I like how the hint or red turned out in the background.

 

I second that

 

Great thread, will be watching with interest

Your R53 is very similar to mine, though I have since put different wheels on mine