R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 More problems

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Old Apr 18, 2016 | 07:30 PM
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matthew_robinson94@yahoo.'s Avatar
matthew_robinson94@yahoo.
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More problems

So after a clutch replacement last week and 75ish miles on my new to me mini I reset the ECU. Now my cel is on so I get my buddy's scanner and see what's up. Got 5 codes.
P1229 throttle potentiometer adapter fault. I believe is either the throttle body or the wiring harness.
P0123 throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "A" circuit low
P0222 throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "B" circuit low
P0455 evap leak (large)
P0442 evap leak (small)
Any one have any insight on any of these? Will be doing some research when I can. I don't have any free time till the weekend due to collage and work.
Thanks guys.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2016 | 08:13 PM
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Da_Ghost
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We've seen some people on here with faulty throttle body, but I'm pretty sure they had power issues along with it.

As for the evap leak, make sure that all the lines are connected and not damaged. Large leak is usually an unhooked line or gas cap not on. I had the P0455 once, but it was due to user's error from not reconnecting the line near the engine mount on the passenger side.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Da_Ghost
We've seen some people on here with faulty throttle body, but I'm pretty sure they had power issues along with it.

As for the evap leak, make sure that all the lines are connected and not damaged. Large leak is usually an unhooked line or gas cap not on. I had the P0455 once, but it was due to user's error from not reconnecting the line near the engine mount on the passenger side.
It doesn't seem like the car has a loss of power. But then again Ive only put about 100 miles on it so far so it's hard to say if it has a loss if power but it doesn't bog down or have issues starting. I plan on pulling the airbix when I get time to check that area to make sure all connections are good. Can I spray the vacuum lines with soap and water and check for bubbles to form like you would a tire? Or is there something better/easier?
The check gas cap light also has been coming on for about 10 mins then goes out for a little then comes on again. Is that part of the evap leak?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 08:09 AM
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Did you try to clear the codes and see if they come back? It seems it's common to see more than a few of these codes together. I think you're on the right path by checking out the throttle body, throttle body connector and wiring. For the large leak I'd maybe check the evap purge solenoid. Some info HERE.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 08:44 AM
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matthew_robinson94@yahoo.'s Avatar
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com
Did you try to clear the codes and see if they come back? It seems it's common to see more than a few of these codes together. I think you're on the right path by checking out the throttle body, throttle body connector and wiring. For the large leak I'd maybe check the evap purge solenoid. Some info HERE.
We tryed to clear them with the scanner but no luck. I'm not sure if it's because is a cheap one or not. Should I try resetting the ecu to clear them? I also found out that the weird engine noise is a timing chain issue so I ordered the tensioner. Would that have anything to do with the error codes? I planned on taking the TB off this weekend to clean and inspect it. I love the car but it's starting to really aggravate me.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 09:20 AM
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matthew_robinson94@yahoo.'s Avatar
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For the large leak I'd maybe check the evap purge solenoid. Some info HERE.[/QUOTE]

I looked at the purge solenoid and it's plugged in connection seems to be good. Is there a way to test to make sure it's working properly?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:20 AM
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You can do a smoke test to help find possible leaks in the system. Maybe even check the charcoal canister and check out post #8 here for some additional items to check out to chase down any leaks.

Edit: Missed your first response. It could be that the generic scanner cannot clear the codes so maybe if you get a BMW/MINI specific one (try the Carly App) it will clear them.
 
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Last edited by PelicanParts.com; Apr 20, 2016 at 10:32 AM.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 12:44 PM
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matthew_robinson94@yahoo.'s Avatar
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com
You can do a smoke test to help find possible leaks in the system. Maybe even check the charcoal canister and check out post #8 here for some additional items to check out to chase down any leaks.

Edit: Missed your first response. It could be that the generic scanner cannot clear the codes so maybe if you get a BMW/MINI specific one (try the Carly App) it will clear them.
Would resetting the ECU clear the codes?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 07:01 PM
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matthew_robinson94@yahoo.'s Avatar
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Anyone know how long it takes for these codes to reappear after the codes are cleared? Cleaned the throttle body and cleaned the connection after clearing the code drove around for about a half hr. Did I fix the problem or has it not had enough time to see something is wrong?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 07:55 PM
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ZippyNH
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Evap leaks can take several full cycles, from cold to warm, warm to warm and back to cold...
If the odb2 has "emissions readiness" as a check, and they all pass, you know it passed the cars test.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 08:25 PM
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matthew_robinson94@yahoo.'s Avatar
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
Evap leaks can take several full cycles, from cold to warm, warm to warm and back to cold...
If the odb2 has "emissions readiness" as a check, and they all pass, you know it passed the cars test.
I havnt done the evap yet. Hoping and thinking it's something with the charcoal canister. How about the other 3 codes?
 
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