R50/53 DT BPV Destroyed my gas mileage
2004 R53, 105K...
My experience is from a dead stop in daily driving: since it takes a split-second longer (than a N/A engine) for the S/C to spool up power, I have to delay dropping the clutch more than I normally would - same with most upshifting. If I do let out the clutch too soon or too rapidly from a stop, it slows the engine too quickly and the engine can't recover fast enough to counter the bear, so the car falls on its face - and then back to where I started with no forward motion. I had always felt that this was a BPV issue - the valve not staying closed to build S/C pressure - but I did the spring check (with my fingers) and it seems to be closing quickly and firmly.
I would change out the BPV if I thought it was the problem, but the "test" makes it seem like it's working fine. The Mini drives great with no problems or codes, it's just this one niggling annoyance...
My experience is from a dead stop in daily driving: since it takes a split-second longer (than a N/A engine) for the S/C to spool up power, I have to delay dropping the clutch more than I normally would - same with most upshifting. If I do let out the clutch too soon or too rapidly from a stop, it slows the engine too quickly and the engine can't recover fast enough to counter the bear, so the car falls on its face - and then back to where I started with no forward motion. I had always felt that this was a BPV issue - the valve not staying closed to build S/C pressure - but I did the spring check (with my fingers) and it seems to be closing quickly and firmly.
I would change out the BPV if I thought it was the problem, but the "test" makes it seem like it's working fine. The Mini drives great with no problems or codes, it's just this one niggling annoyance...
It took me a long time to get used to driving my mini after being used to driving cars/trucks with big V8’s. The power and torque they have right off of idle is amazing compared to a mini……you just have to get used to keeping the rpm’s up higher to have power on demand……and get used to feathering the clutch pedal a little when taking off. My mini is honestly one of the most tricky stick shift cars I’ve ever driven…..as far as taking off from a dead stop. They have absolutely no power or throttle response down low at all.
I totally get the gutless engine thing at low RPMs, I just thought it more severe than it should be - the way the car just falls flat on its face in that case. I have also had to learn to feather the clutch better but I don't like doing it on load as it heats up and wears the disc more than I'm comfortable with. I pride myself on making clutches last.
I also resist throwing parts at cars just for grins or because it's over 100K miles. While I don't think a new (DT or OEM) BPV would hurt, that's $100 I could spend on something the car really needs. Like a pulley, belt and tensioner, LCA bushings, engine mount...
I also resist throwing parts at cars just for grins or because it's over 100K miles. While I don't think a new (DT or OEM) BPV would hurt, that's $100 I could spend on something the car really needs. Like a pulley, belt and tensioner, LCA bushings, engine mount...
I totally get the gutless engine thing at low RPMs, I just thought it more severe than it should be - the way the car just falls flat on its face in that case. I have also had to learn to feather the clutch better but I don't like doing it on load as it heats up and wears the disc more than I'm comfortable with. I pride myself on making clutches last.
I also resist throwing parts at cars just for grins or because it's over 100K miles. While I don't think a new (DT or OEM) BPV would hurt, that's $100 I could spend on something the car really needs. Like a pulley, belt and tensioner, LCA bushings, engine mount...
I also resist throwing parts at cars just for grins or because it's over 100K miles. While I don't think a new (DT or OEM) BPV would hurt, that's $100 I could spend on something the car really needs. Like a pulley, belt and tensioner, LCA bushings, engine mount...
I totally get the gutless engine thing at low RPMs, I just thought it more severe than it should be - the way the car just falls flat on its face in that case. I have also had to learn to feather the clutch better but I don't like doing it on load as it heats up and wears the disc more than I'm comfortable with. I pride myself on making clutches last.
I also resist throwing parts at cars just for grins or because it's over 100K miles. While I don't think a new (DT or OEM) BPV would hurt, that's $100 I could spend on something the car really needs. Like a pulley, belt and tensioner, LCA bushings, engine mount...
I also resist throwing parts at cars just for grins or because it's over 100K miles. While I don't think a new (DT or OEM) BPV would hurt, that's $100 I could spend on something the car really needs. Like a pulley, belt and tensioner, LCA bushings, engine mount...
As long as you BPV snaps shut with some force when you pull the lever open with your finger and then let it close on its own...its ok. When they go bad, the spring breaks, and it wont snap shut. That's when you know its time to replace it. If it snaps shut.......its fine, don't replace it.
As long as you BPV snaps shut with some force when you pull the lever open with your finger and then let it close on its own...its ok. When they go bad, the spring breaks, and it wont snap shut. That's when you know its time to replace it. If it snaps shut.......its fine, don't replace it.
not necessarily, the spring weakens and won't hold boost properly. It can still close with decent force and not seal like it should.
It is typical to see a decrease in mileage as the engine stays under boost longer when you let off the gas, and because it closes sooner.
I just use the stock bypass valve but always adjust the stop so it is 100% closed because off the shelf they always have a slight crack in them open.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-min...e-r52-r53.html
I just use the stock bypass valve but always adjust the stop so it is 100% closed because off the shelf they always have a slight crack in them open.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-min...e-r52-r53.html
It is typical to see a decrease in mileage as the engine stays under boost longer when you let off the gas, and because it closes sooner.
I just use the stock bypass valve but always adjust the stop so it is 100% closed because off the shelf they always have a slight crack in them open.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-min...e-r52-r53.html
I just use the stock bypass valve but always adjust the stop so it is 100% closed because off the shelf they always have a slight crack in them open.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-min...e-r52-r53.html
Since I bought my R53 used last year (from 2nd owner), I have little information about any upgrades or repairs from the past three years. Is there any way to tell if my BPV has been replaced; further, if it's been replaced with a DT? Everything's still on the car, so I'm sure I'll have to pull the TB assembly, but is there an obvious differentiation?
Ok awesome! I will let you know before I place the order thanks. Does the 100% closed adjustment effect the gas mileage?
You should be making more boost when the air is colder...and denser.
very easy it's like one screw if I remember correctly
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