does anyone know if there is a way to test the keyless entry system i bought a 03 mini about a year ago and the remote never worked i put a new battery and still nothing I've tried multiple programing sequences and nothing if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated

 

Mine's been dead for awhile now. Turns out the micro switch inside broke, came unsoldered. Tried to solder it back on, but that only lasted maybe 3 months. You can get the micro switch on eBay so check that option.

Edit: It's a huge pain in the *** to manually lock/unlock car doors... Who does that (besides me). :(

 

lol i have 2 switches they both seem to work fine the light lights up when you push the button but i just get no kind of signal when i try to program them to the car. its really not that bad to do it manually i would be nice to fix it though again any information is appreciated

 

Are you saying that the buttons on your key make the lights flash but don't operate the locks? If they make the lights flash, then the car recognizes the remote key and the problem may be with the lock actuator mechanism. Does the lock toggle switch in the center console work correctly?

In any case, you can only program the key yourself for 2005-2006 model year which has the newer style key. 2002-2004 use a different key and programming must be done through a computer at a dealer or shop. However, if your key makes the lights flash then this is not the problem.

 

I'm sorry i should have explained better the red light on the key lights up when you press the button the toggle switch works fine

 

Red light on the key?!
What year car. Had a 2005 for 10 years ...red light on the key?? Inside?

 

For the 200(1)- 2004 keys (clamshell two-button style) there is a red LED on the circuit board that will light up when either of the microswitches is pushed. If this lights up (as far as I have been able to determine) the key itself is in working order. This remote board is also used in some Land Rover and MG models, where the shell design allowed for a clear dot so that the LED could be seen. The MINI "wings" essentially covers it up on that shell design.

For the 2005-2006 and r52's up to 2007(?) with the three button keys there is no internal LED.

As a reminder, keys themselves are not programmed by dealers or mere mortals such as ourselves. They are set at the factory to put out a digital signal that modulates the RF signal (at 315 Mhz here in North America); this digital signal is recognized by the car's BCU and allows the remote to lock and unlock. The BCU can "forget" the digital signal that it is supposed to recognize and be re-programmed to once again accept it, either by a dealer or other coder as in the case of the two button keys or there is a series of button pushes for the three button keys that will allow the remote to be "paired" with the BCU.

In this case the BCU will need to be re-paired with the key or the remote receiver (near the rear-view mirror) may have gone bad. They key may also be putting out an RF signal but the digital information section of the key may have gone dead- but I have never seen that.

Long shot- both of your door actuators may have gone bad, only partially working. In this case they would not respond to remote signals but will respond to the toggle switch and of course the key in the door. Do you get a horn beep or parking light flash when locking? Does the hatch lock and unlock with the remote? The lock button will lock everything, one push on the wings unlocks the drivers side and a second push will unlock the hatch and passenger door.

More information on these keys:

https://sites.google.com/site/minian...moving-forward

 

I do MINI key repair and have done dozens of these keys. Contact me if you need help- these keys can be repaired and the microswitches should stay in place once soldered on.

You don't want to keep using the blade and lock cylinder. From personal experience, they are made out of cheap pot metal and are not meant to be used everyday.

Let me know if you need help with your key.

Val

 

(NOTE: I tried to PM you but your mailbox is full)
Can they be heated to take them apart? Or do I need to cut it apart then glue it after I replace the battery? Thanks in advance for any insight.

 

^^^ This is an old topic but still relevant. I too have an original key with internal battery that appears can no longer be recharged while driving. I'm going to continue attempting to "wake it up" while keeping that one in the ignition during occasional drives and if no luck, will proceed with R&R as outlined on this (of several out there) video. As the author shows, be careful not to damage the circuit board while cutting/prying it open:

 

I have a pre-facelift '04 R53, two button remote key.
You should be able to simply pry the clamshell apart. You'll need a tiny flat blade jeweler's/or eyeglass repair screwdriver. If not - carefully pry at the seam with an exacto knife..
Start at the very top behind/near the back of the key blade and gently pry the seam.. Most likely you will not have to pry around the entire seam once you separate it at the top. Just pop it apart with your fingers. That is all.
It should just snap back shut when putting it back together. You shouldn't need or use glue....(If you ever want to get it apart again).

 

I have the three button post-facelift keys. I haven't tried yet, but according to the videos, they are glued by the factory. So, people in the videos are showing that they need to be cut open. I was thinking that a lot of times some heat can release the glue in a case like this. But, I think it would be hard to heat it enough without it deforming or ruining the rubbery parts on the switches. I just wanted to see if anyone has tried it before I go cutting the thing apart.

 

Valvashon aka Dr. Bruce Hart = minikeyhospital@outlook.com.. He was a little backed up but is responding via email if you still need key help. He just re-did mine.
Good Luck