What ever happened???

 

Thanks for checking in! All new parts are in but awaiting the dang serpentine belt tool which has been seriously delayed... About to try a "hack" option just to get it ready to start.

At this time it is all back together except for the belt. Plan to install belt, clear codes and crank it up. Found some degraded injector seals which is probably the source of the gas smell before. They are new now and if no valve damage has occurred hope to be good to go.

 

All you need is a prybar. Just leverage it against the top sc bolt, put the prybar end in the middle of tensioner and push down. The spring isn't that strong

 

yup...
you can put a spare socket on the bolt as fulcrum...and use a prybar....and depress it...be about a 2 minutes job with a helper...
a "tool" makes it a one person job...
First time i did it without the "tool" i had my wife put an allen wrench as a stopper in the hole to lock it so i could finish the belt change....
Then got a tool...so i could do it without help...

 

Did you ever check compression and LD?

 

Ok- well I "necked" up a belt tool today since I was tired of waiting for the ordered one. My neighbor helped pull while I set locking pin and it worked after a bit of design tweaking. Total cost $14.00 US.

Serpentine belt on, fluids (mostly) checked, key turned- instant start and purrs like a kitten!!!

Somehow I left off the temp sensor on the cylinder head (novice, I know) so once that is bolted back in should be roarin' down the road. Nice little gush of green fluid to point that one out...

Anyway, looks like successful fix for a $0.00 gifted car. Total in around $1500 US in parts/supplies. The learning experience is priceless!

As is the help on this forum- Thank you!!!

 

Good news!

Had a water leak too after doing my head gasket. Mine was just a hose clamp

And nice tool

This is my belt tool

 

Thanks! Ironically the holes on the strap iron aligned perfectly in the tensioner pulley holes. All I did was ream out one hole to fit over the front-most tensioner bolt (fulcrum) and stuck a bolt through the tool into the pulley holes. Added the redneck adornment and bam! Done.

 

OK... another update. Car runs flawlessly but had to be jump started initially. The old battery had been on a trickle charger for weeks and could only turn the motor over a few times before quitting. Battery did not seem to hold a charge and the power steering would not work, gauges froze and indicator needles dropped, A/C fan would not blow and it would not start. So I figured the battery was bad.

In goes a new ($$$) battery and everything worked fine. Got the car inspected and tagged. Now, day two the same thing is happening again with new battery. My inclination is the alternator is shot and not charging the battery. Or a connection, but thought I would put this out there for feedback.

Am I missing something here? Thanks!

 

Did you disconnect the starter, alternator or engine grounds? If so, double check all that.

I got fooled once by my starter and a feeble memory - there are two heavy battery cables and two heavy lugs on the starter (and smaller wires for the solenoid) - both heavy cables go under one lug... Otherwise the alternator isn't charging the battery.

Most auto parts stores will test alternators. I wouldn't replace it without testing. Rock Auto sells them pretty cheap if you do need one.

 

Great story. Thanks for sharing and I am glad the NAM members could help.