My key fob locks the car just fine. But when I push the button to unlock it it does not. Yet the interior lights come on. Any ideas what is wrong?

 

Is it one or the other ? The door lock motors can go bad and still lock but are not string enough to unlock , like on there way out.

#1 door lock.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-actuator.html



The interior light come on part of the LKM light module, perfectly normal.

 

Neither door unlocks. Which is peculiar if its the actuator motor. Whats the part#?

 

They are linked in that thread. If it both locks I would guess maybe a main battery issues, like low voltage. I have seen one lock do this then the other usually starts with the driver side first, since it has the most use.

 

Since you didn't mention this, are you aware that the first press of the key fob button only unlocks (supposed to) the driver's door, and the second press unlocks the passenger door and hatch? I agree that it's weird for neither door to unlock after two presses of the button.

I just had a weird issue: the key remote button made a noise in the driver's door, but didn't unlock it (but the key fob lock button locked everything 100%). Second "unlock" press unlocked the pass door and hatch just fine; from the inside, the power lock switch on the stack would unlock the driver's door, but not lock it.

Replaced the actuator, everything works perfectly now.

 

Right, it needs two presses. But that's not working for me.


However, the lock switch on the center console unlocks the doors. So how could it be an issue with the elctro-mech actuators in the doors?! I picked up a driver's side actuator from ECS, but now I'm worried I'd be wasting my time and $ replacing that. Any thoughts?

 

Might be a weak electro-mech actuators, before they go all the way not working, they are working in and out part of the time.

 

But why would they work non of the time with the key fob, and all of the time with the console switch? If the actuator is busted or voltage low why would the console switch work?

I guess I'll just pull the driver's door apart this weekend and try the new actuator. Once I get my hands in there I'll at least be able to see what's going on. I just wanted to avoid taking your part out of the box and then having to return it if possible when its not making sense to me to start.

 

Understand.

Other then the key fob internal battery being weak , which it will lock the" My key fob locks the car just fine. But when I push the button to unlock it it does not." So that knock that out that question.

The unlock part on the acuator pointed me towards a weak acuator. Rather have the part in hand when tearing the door off and finding whats going on, then not have it.

 

If you have a second FOB does it work?

Funny how the light comes on but the lock doesn't pop...

Matter of fact I went through about 5 minutes of the same issue a weeks ago... If I remember correctly, I stood there with the FOB in hand and I attempted to unlock, then lock... repeatedly for several minutes. Then I unlocked the door with the key, and then locked it with the FOB and attempted to unlock... after several attempts it started working again, and has been working ever since.

I wish I had paid more attention to it... but is was a few minutes of me radiating anger and fuming with irritation until it started working again.

Best of luck.

Motor on!

 

I have a 2nd fob and it's doing the same thing.

 

Figured it out! It's the fobs. The contact under the mini logo button must be worn because if I start mashing on them eventually I get an unlock.