curious about needing the thermostat honestly now that i realize it... See i understand that if it stays open, i wont get any heat in the car.. if it stays closed the car will overheat. Now what i was getting was when i would turn the car off... the radiator fan would kick on for about a minute after i locked the car and then would go off but I was wondering if that was either A:resistor on the radiator fan or B:Since the Supercharger was shot and the water pump wasnt working 100% efficiently if THAT was why the radiator fan was kicking on after i was driving. Can anybody chime in on that little bit of nugget?

 

Since the front end is off for the supercharger its a a good time to do the RESISTOR MOD. Most likely the oem resistor malfunctioning, known to corrode and lost contact.

If its the thermostat you can easily replace it by removing the intercooler and airbox out of the way. To be honest why not just replace the thermostat too if you think its bad.

 

Might consider these plugs, they cost a bit more cabbage but have heard and experienced excellent results with them.


http://www.sneed4speed.com/r53-mini-...4-brisk-lgs-t/

 

but they only sell them for the jcw temperature.. would that be okay for the 17%? i'm tempted to try them

 

So, I ordered the sneed plugs, giant WMW order and the tensioner from amazon.... hopefully at least one of the 3 orders shows up before the weekend so I can get started.
I didn notice last night that the idler pulley and tensioner pulley were both covered in oil which explains the squeal I would get from taking off from a light. It APPEARS that the seal on the supercharger let go and the oil ran out of it onto the pulleys. HOPEFULLY i can keep the oil off of the pulleys with the rebuild

 

If there was ever any overheating at all or if your water pump wasn't working well, always replace the thermostat. Its been comprimised. Even if the cooling fan resistor mod helps with the fan cycling issue, replace that thermostat. Save yourself future headache and possible overheating issues.

 

Yup! I grabbed a thermostat as well!

 

 

So I have the bpv setting here.. small hose seems stretched and
not sealing well so
I'll have to replace that.... how do I take the bpv apart to a) adjust it so it closes all the way and b) adjust the spring? link somewheres?

 

Carefully pry open the tabs that holds the spring housing together, very careful. Once open just spread the spring as i told you earlier.

As far as adjusting the flapper valve just back off the hex stopper screw, but, first loosen the lock nut. Adjust screw until the flapper valve just fully close all the way. If the lock screw is locktite use something to loosen the locktite.

 

K, i'm still waiting on my tensioner to come in (tuesday) so in the mean time i'm just doing the other odd stuff. Replaced the plugs with BRISKS! Installed the idler pulley, bolting up the water pump and supercharger tonight as well as the Crank Position sensor oring. NOW, i have brand new oil in the mini.. (2 days before i parked it to tear down!) so am i screwed since i have to pull the sensor out or am I okay and wont leak oil all over the place? you see my worry? haha

 

anybody?

 

You are okay as the sensor seats higher than the oil level.

 

and even if it wasn't you'd just have to capture the oil in a clean catch basin and put it back in once the project was done - just don't forget

 

Like Miles said:pulling off the CPS will not release any oil. Clean the hole in the block so that there is no chance of getting any debris on the new o-ring when you put it back in. I put a thin film of oil on the o-ring so it would slide in easy and not risk scratching or tearing the new o-ring. I know all this sounds like overkill, but the CPS is super prone to leaking, and i hate oil leaks! Some people will put gasket sealer on it too (rather than smearing it with oil).

You know you have to get the car tuned with a 17%, and 550s, right?

 

With 17% pulley tune is not needed, but will benefit
550cc yes, they are not drop in and go to your favorite drive thru.
With OP's mod he's ok with factory injectors.
Make sure your new plugs are one step colder because of your smaller pulley.

 

with a 15%, tune not required. 17% not required if you are a big fan of pinging under load at >5000rpm. you can't hear it due to the anti-knock system, but it is there. 17%-ers will be very happy with a tune... it will get you another 10-12 hp.

 

Um mm did not know that.
How did you confirm the pinging?

 

Oh hey you guys didnt mention I had to raise the motor out of the car to get to the fkn tensioner! lol.... It's on a block of wood as we speak tho and the engine mount is removed (curious if i should be replacing the mounts while i'm in here?) anyway... tensioner came in today so when I get home, i'm at least getting that sucker on there! Tomorrow i'll get to bolting up the supercharger / water pump.

Another question... bypass pressure valve i'm working on modifying to close and with more spring tension.... however, what is the little valve box on the drivers side that opens / closes like the BPV? I ask because it seems as tho it doesnt close all the way either and the inside of it was really gross with oily gunk (all cleaned now but... grosssss)

 

Thats your electronic throttle valve, don't mess with that other than cleaning it.

 

miles miles, thank you so much! For some reason i feel like i'll actually be able to put this mess back together with your help
Kay, heading out to swap tensioners and to sink the motor back into the car... wish a brutha luck!!!

 

Too late now but no need to remove the engine mount. Just loosen the bolt enough to jack the engine up a little to get the tensioner out.

 

SO.. it looks really dried out and the inside is bone dry... replace the upper mount most likely? If so.. with which one do you guys suggest?

 

Tuner could see it on his scope while he was dialing it in; had to pull out a bunch of timing advance to get it to stop, then could adjust the a/f ratio to get it to run correctly with the 17. Said the extra boost from the 17% was why it was pinging.

My mechanic also was warned about using a 17% after the fact (my fault, i should have asked him first before installing it), but it is all dialed in now, and runs awesome.

Disclaimer: i dont have the experience to claim that all cars with a pully >15% will have detonation issues, but mine sure did. I'm just happy i had it addressed on my R53.

 

Nice to know and thanks.
BTW, which tuning software did your tuner used?