R50/53 lean code
lean code
I find it interesting that I have a lean code that won't clear. Even though I'm running 380 injectors.
it came on after a long trip to my grandmothers about 130 miles round trip.
is it possible that the ecu has scaled the injectors back to far and need to readjust for good afr's?
all though I think it may be related to the dt bpv becase had lean problems when I tried the vgs mod and now with the dt bpv and when I had the vgs mod as soon as I went back to stock vacum routing the lean went away.
it came on after a long trip to my grandmothers about 130 miles round trip.
is it possible that the ecu has scaled the injectors back to far and need to readjust for good afr's?
all though I think it may be related to the dt bpv becase had lean problems when I tried the vgs mod and now with the dt bpv and when I had the vgs mod as soon as I went back to stock vacum routing the lean went away.
to be more specific my bavtec reader says that its a lean code thats not present, test was done, and short signal short error.
i manualy reset all adaptations one by one ans the code is gone. no im gonna see hôw long it takes to come back...
could my o2 sensor be bad? clogged? i think its the original, and i have 140,9xx miles
i manualy reset all adaptations one by one ans the code is gone. no im gonna see hôw long it takes to come back...
could my o2 sensor be bad? clogged? i think its the original, and i have 140,9xx miles
If there's a vacuum leak somewhere, it could cause a lean condition. I had a cracked intercooler boot that made the car run like crap and made the exhaust manifold glow cherry red!
Pretty sure that the ecu scaling them back isn't your issue, been running my 380cc on stock ecu for 4 years with no problems. (As well as driving like a lunatic and take the car to the track)
Pretty sure that the ecu scaling them back isn't your issue, been running my 380cc on stock ecu for 4 years with no problems. (As well as driving like a lunatic and take the car to the track)
I remember you saying that In another thread. I let it idle for ever manifold was fine. Then took it out and beat the crap out of still the same. I have Alta boots and they are new. Just drove80 miles to my friends house and no issues lets see what will happen on the way home.
yea so it did not last long. on the way home just at about 100 miles the light came back on for lean....
took a video of my ultra gauge for o2 voltages, fuel trim, engine load, and air in take.... according to the UG manual... it looks like i may be running lean under certain conditions.

at first im just crusing in 6th at 3k rpm on cruse control. when i wave my fingers its WOT, and the second time i wave is varing throttle, from very light to 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 throttle
edit:::: I think its under the the area of varying throttle like under vacuum and light boost it sees a lean condition like in part three or the end if my video..
http://s228.photobucket.com/user/Gre...2071c.mp4.html
took a video of my ultra gauge for o2 voltages, fuel trim, engine load, and air in take.... according to the UG manual... it looks like i may be running lean under certain conditions.

at first im just crusing in 6th at 3k rpm on cruse control. when i wave my fingers its WOT, and the second time i wave is varing throttle, from very light to 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 throttle
edit:::: I think its under the the area of varying throttle like under vacuum and light boost it sees a lean condition like in part three or the end if my video..
http://s228.photobucket.com/user/Gre...2071c.mp4.html
Last edited by GreekDrifter91; Jan 5, 2014 at 05:55 AM.
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i am talking about the o2 voltages down below. which are fine under wot; .9v out of 1.25v(=99.2% rich)
im gonna pick up a wide band and see whats up.
this sucks i also get the lean code 2096 Post CatalystFuel Trim SystemToo Lean, Bank 1. so what i do is reset adaptations using my bmw software on my pc then use my obd2 scanner to clear light on cluster to get rid of it. but then it comes back after one or two months. so i do the process again. i think its because i changed the header to a obx header and put a high flow cat. both of my o2 sensors are brand new from mini dealer. it sucks i gotta keep doing this. if i dont use my bmw software and just use my obd2 scanner the code comes back within 3 start ups. the bmw software buys me more time before the code comes back. by resetting the computer im probably gonna have issues passing inspection when its time. i wonder how long it takes for our minis to get all its readiness codes complete. thats what the dmv looks for when doing state inspections. without all the readiness codes complete they fail you automatically even though the light isnt on.
i just bought two brand new sensors for my car in hopes that this fixes my problem. i am pretty confident its the oxygen sensors acting up. and everything i am ready and looking up points there. i also ran some readings on the sensors and they seem to be a bit waacky but not enough to make the car be terrible.
also found on most sites that we use lamba sensors not oxygen sensors and that the symptoms im reading here definitely point to them being at fault.
http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/Diagnos...stic_index.asp
also found on most sites that we use lamba sensors not oxygen sensors and that the symptoms im reading here definitely point to them being at fault.
http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/Diagnos...stic_index.asp
Uggghh I feel your pain on this. 2096 is probably the worst code you can get on this car. It basically means it can be anything. For me and my r53 unfortunately it was a cracked exhaust valve that was causing the code. I wonder if it was caused by the previous owner filling it with regular gas or it's because the miles I put on my car are equivalent to dog years. I drive my car like I stole it every single day.
I would recommend getting a compression test done and if something comes back funky get a compression leak down test done. These cars are known to have valve issues.
Good luck tracking down the issue. God knows rebuilding the head was the last thing I wanted to do but it ultimately fixed the issue.
I would recommend getting a compression test done and if something comes back funky get a compression leak down test done. These cars are known to have valve issues.
Good luck tracking down the issue. God knows rebuilding the head was the last thing I wanted to do but it ultimately fixed the issue.
Uggghh I feel your pain on this. 2096 is probably the worst code you can get on this car. It basically means it can be anything. For me and my r53 unfortunately it was a cracked exhaust valve that was causing the code. I wonder if it was caused by the previous owner filling it with regular gas or it's because the miles I put on my car are equivalent to dog years. I drive my car like I stole it every single day.
I would recommend getting a compression test done and if something comes back funky get a compression leak down test done. These cars are known to have valve issues.
Good luck tracking down the issue. God knows rebuilding the head was the last thing I wanted to do but it ultimately fixed the issue.
I would recommend getting a compression test done and if something comes back funky get a compression leak down test done. These cars are known to have valve issues.
Good luck tracking down the issue. God knows rebuilding the head was the last thing I wanted to do but it ultimately fixed the issue.
i have 141xxx miles on my mini and its about time they got replaced, they are the originals.
Worth noting, is that even a small exhaust leak in the right place can cause Lean codes. I've had this happen several times, actually. If there is a leak before, or even very very close to the O2 sensor, at certain engine speeds the exhaust system can actually pull in air from the leaking area (via venturi effect), thus pulling in unmetered air which then throws off the air/fuel mixture that that O2 sensor is looking for.
Worth noting, is that even a small exhaust leak in the right place can cause Lean codes. I've had this happen several times, actually. If there is a leak before, or even very very close to the O2 sensor, at certain engine speeds the exhaust system can actually pull in air from the leaking area (via venturi effect), thus pulling in unmetered air which then throws off the air/fuel mixture that that O2 sensor is looking for.
although i do have a can of seafoam that would probably work (just for the exhaust side) but i am unmotivated to do it in the cold and then go and change my oil...
It's freezing outside lately- I feel ya.
Exhaust leaks causing Lean CELs are often overlooked, so that's why I mentioned it. Hunting down this code can get costly if you approach it by throwing parts at the car. Good luck.
Exhaust leaks causing Lean CELs are often overlooked, so that's why I mentioned it. Hunting down this code can get costly if you approach it by throwing parts at the car. Good luck.
i may give the seafoam a try next week, its gonna take while for the sensors to come in and its gonna be in the upper 40's into 50's. northeast is crazy below zero one day 95 the next......
Agreed. We got 20" of snow the other week, then it rained the following day. Yesterday...5 degrees. Anyhow, if you just run the Seafoam through vac lines for combustion (smoke test) you don't need to change the oil right away, though replacing plugs would be smart. You only need to change the oil immediately after a crank-case Seafoam treatment.
Last edited by TheBigChill; Jan 9, 2014 at 08:40 AM.
P2096 dealing with this now, have had aftermarket header for over 2 years and just now getting this code, I don't think its my header. I am approaching 90k miles and think I am going to try the "remove rear o2 sensor clean and reinstall" approach and see what happens. I think it could possibly be that I need a new o2 sensor also. I have checked for leaks everywhere.
I think you're barking up the wrong tree with this and the new sensors. First, as stated above a thorough smoke test for leaks is a good place to start. Then, check carefully at both your pre-cat and cat for a crack in the case. You'll have to reset the trim adaptations before clearing the codes or else the code will come back immediately.
I think you're barking up the wrong tree with this and the new sensors. First, as stated above a thorough smoke test for leaks is a good place to start. Then, check carefully at both your pre-cat and cat for a crack in the case. You'll have to reset the trim adaptations before clearing the codes or else the code will come back immediately.
i did seafoam the car to day(it was surprisingly warm) no smoke when i was sucking it in but after i let it sit then proceeded to evacuate the system of the seafoam. i may have seen something but i think it was just the wind blowing it our from the back and up into the engine bay.
seafoam did help some, but it was probably the adapters to the 380s that were the issue i was having random misfires here and there that were pending codes and not actual codes yet did not see them cuz i did not look at the pending code section on my ultragauge and didnt use my Bevtec scanner to do the actual looking.... it didnt turn into a real code until they got real bad to the point the ecu shut down cylinder 3 and sometimes 1. i took the connectors out cleaned them with electrical contact cleaner and slobbered them with dielectric grease and ZERO problems sense then. im at 70 miles sense i rest all the adaptations and cleared codes with the BevTech and no problems yet and it feels great. only time will tell if anything will pop up its right around 100-150 miles right, where it finishes its check list right? so we will see what happens.
as for the two new O2 sensors i got ill just use those when i install a header when i get one, it will be easier this way. and new sensors would probably be a welcomed change.
as for the two new O2 sensors i got ill just use those when i install a header when i get one, it will be easier this way. and new sensors would probably be a welcomed change.
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