I have read the various DIYs on this issue but not found a clear answer. I will be replacing the radiator on my 2004 MCS and in the process draining all of the existing coolant. When I am done with the installation of the new radiator, is it sufficient to introduce the new coolant through the expansion tank? In some cars that I have worked on it is recommended that the upper hose be used to introduce as much coolant as possible, then attach and tighten up the hose. TIA.

 

Works fine. Be sure to bleed the system as you fill it though. There is on bleeder screw just behind the top of the radiator. There is one more, but I've never found it

Nik

 

Thanks. Wow! 312,000 miles on yours - impressive.

 

I have a photo of the other one. Maybe I can find it on lunch, its a very small (maybe 8mm) copper bolt that screws into a small fitting (like heater hose size) that runs on the drivers side just above the transmission. You'll need a long extension on a 1/4 drive ratchet to reach it. Removing the air filter housing may not be necessary, but makes it easier to see.

 

Well, thought I had a better photo. Look at where I'm pointing, you'll see it.

If you are able to zoom way in on my photo, you'll see a hard plastic vacuume line, it's just under that, gently push it aside with your socket on extension.

 

Here is also a great how to, to help you
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ant_Change.htm

 

Aw hell! Just went and looked, sure enough there it is. I was always looking for one that looked like the front upper one.

Nik

 

Took me forever to find it, flashlight and contortionist moves to get the right line of sight, lol,

BTW, OP, you only have to break it loose, and turn it back another 1/4 or 1/2 turn. As you fill when coolant begins to come out, tighten it. The other one in the upper hose does most of the bleed work.

 

It's embarrassing considering the amount of time I have spent working on this car

 

Ya I'm trying to catch up to you. You've got a lot of miles on that thing. Wonder if I can get to half a million miles before you do.

I've covered about 11,000 miles since I got the mini 4 months ago in April.

 

Wow dude. Thats the way to motor on!

 

Race is on, looser buys coffee!

Nik

 

::thumbsup

 

does mini require a "special" coolant or can i just go with something at the auto store thats good to go with aluminum rad/blocks

 

I've always just used the 50/50 stuff from the local auto store. But I'm sure opinions differ

Nik

 

Ob Boy, get ready for the can of worms to be opened. I have used Prestone 50/50 for years in my MINI with my MISHIMOTO radiator and have had NO issues. You could get the MINI brand or G-05 http://www.valvoline.com/products/br.../antifreeze/42

 

I'm using the Zyrex G- (can't remember exact name).

I heard, don't use the traditional green stuff

edit:
Yeah, like Braminator said. Zyrex G-05

Also our well-water way out here is a no-no. Lots of calcium in ours. Distilled Water in the grocery is only a buck a gallon.

 

The Zyrex G-05 specifically says that it is approved for MINI. That said, there is no cost savings; my dealer wanted about $23 for a gallon of the 'official' stuff, which you would then cut 50/50 with distilled water. The Zyrex was less than $12 a gallon and you need two.

 

thats exactly what i wanted to here lol, when i had the vw i used preston and mixed it my self 50/50 and peopel where freaking out because i wasnt using the special g12 i ripped my block apart and looked at coolant gallies they were clean and no pitting after 8 years of owning it, and the rad was good to. just wanted to make sure hahaha

 

I paid $18 per gallon of concentrate at Orilys for Zyrex

 

No. It's not the right stuff. NOR does it say its safe for BMW/Mini use. Show me that in writing from the Zerex website. BMW/Mini is not listed in the specs sheet.

Mini/BMW coolant is G48.

Personally my car is worth more than saving 11$.

The factory $23 gallon gets cut with 1 gal of distiller water.. Makes two gallons.. Costs the same as the wrong stuff....

 

Not looking to get flamed by some, but many of us have had this argument about using the green stuff that everyone hates for some reason. We have all used it for years and NEVER had any issues. I would not mix it with MINI coolant though. I drained all of it when I replaced my Rad many years ago. Never have I had any issues. Hopefully some other will chime in with their positive experiences with it as well. You can make your own decision

 

DanJReed: Thanks for the post. I'm looking at the back of the Zerex G-05 jug and it lists Mini Cooper as one of the vehicles on their 'coolant application chart' although I concede that in a footnote that is hard to read due to small print they do distinguish between those that are 'approved' (i.e. Ford and DaimlerChrysler) and those were it would not be inappropriate (my words.) Depending on year and manufacturer, other coolants are 'original' and Dex-Cool. They do not list G48 at all.

 

Mini Cooper 1959-2000.. Don't forget companies pull that BS all the time with chemical products.

Dex-Cool? No.. Never. Not compatible at all.

http://www.glysantin.de/162-1-G48.html

Factory coolant used is listed above.

I'm not saying its doom and gloom.
I'm not saying its bad if you do a real flush and fill.

But I just don't understand why people knowingly use the wrong stuff.. When it's easy and cheap to get the right stuff engineered for the vehicle.

G-05 Zerex.. Is not the right stuff.

 

This issue with different coolanst was related to the extremely high mineral content of the water in Europe. If you were to mix an antifreeze that contained phosphates with the type of water they have in Europe, it may produce deposits that can settle in the cooling system and promote corrosion. However, in North America we do not have this type of water problem. Typical North American coolants have contained phosphates (which is part of the corrosion inhibitor package) for many years. Therefore, the question of phosphates is a non-issue here in North America. Prestone® Antifreeze/Coolant is completely safe for use in both foreign and domestic vehicles.

There are several manufacturers that supply extended life antifreeze. These new antifreeze products need to be nitrate and amine free to meet U.S. requirements, phosphate free to meet European requirements and silicate free to meet Japanese requirements.