I don't think so. Where are you located?

 

Also, what special tool is needed for the mini cooper S (step 8)

I am in Seattle area

 

A belt tensioner tool.

 

If you were closer I would of offered to help as I have the tool.

 

Try sourcing from salvage yards. R50 Densos have slight difference on the shell & won't fit the R53, but they share the same core. Take note that MINI has Valeo, Bosch & Denso supplying alternators for the 1st gen, cross check yours w/ realOEM. It isn't a difficult swap.

 

Make sure to check the ground strap BEFORE you pull it all apart.

From Pelican's website:
"An important item to check on your car is the engine ground strap. The engine is electrically isolated from the chassis by rubber motor mounts. If the engine ground strap is missing or disconnected, then you might have a whole bunch of problems, including electrical system malfunctions and difficultly turning over the starter. The ground strap is located just in front of the passenger side engine mount"

Also open the phone book and see if you have any alternator shops in town. It sounds like the regulator is bad. That's a part that can be replaced instead of getting a complete new unit. It's IN the alternator. If you can't find one call a NAPA or even a car audio shop and ask them who the recommend.

I have had several alternators fixed or even custom built for me in the past. I have never had any issues having one done.

 

Wrong. 13 volts is not enough to charge a lead acid battery. And 15 is way too much. The proper range is in the low 14's. Most systems shoot for 14.4 volts. But some small variation is allowed.

16+ is way, way, way too much and indicates a faulty voltage regulator. Possibly more. No point in bench testing the unit as it's cheaper to simply replace the entire alternator which includes the voltage regulator and rectifier (VRR).

Hopefully you haven't permanently damaged your battery. If it go that hot, I'd replace it anyway to be safe. Optima Red Top for me.

 

Never check a lead/acid battery immediately after it's been charged, either by the car's system or a separate battery charger. The battery voltage will be artificially high. To get an accurate reading, you MUST let the battery sit with no load on it for a minimum of 2 full hours after the charger has been removed/turned off. 6 hours is better. A brand new, fully charged lead acid battery should be 12.8 volts, give or take a tiny bit. Older batteries are OK down to 12.6. Below that and your battery is heading towards the graveyard. Remember, 12 volts is fully discharged, not 0 volts. Thus, 12.6 volts is only 3/4 charged, 12.4 volts is only 1/2 charge.

 

Wrong please read.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...d_acid_battery

http://m.sooperarticles.com/technolo...ry-548495.html

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...d_acid_battery

 

The typical charging voltage is between 2.15 volts per cell (12.9 volts for a 6 cell battery) and 2.35 volts per cell (14.1 volts for a 6 cell battery). These voltages are appropriate to apply to a fully charged battery without overcharging or damage. If the battery is not fully charged, you can use much higher voltages without damage because the charging reaction takes precedence over any over-charge chemical reactions until the battery is fully charged. This is why a battery charger can operate at 14.4 to 15 volts during the bulk-charge phase of the charge cycle.

 

There's a threshold voltage level that needs to be considered. That's usually around 13.5 volts. Below that and you're not going to be doing any charging, from a practical standpoint.

 

Alright guys,

I have called around some shops, and quotes seem to be roughly $800 bucks or so.

I don't mind doing it myself, but reviewing those directions without actually doing anything look confusing, but I am sure once I get going it will make more sense.

That being said, what do you think the required skill level should be for doing something like this? Am I correct in assuming it isn't that bad once you begin, or are there bound to me many unforeseen issues? I don't wanna get involved and get over my head.

 

So how are things going since you changed the alternator? Did everything still work out?

 

yeah, did it all last week. It was a pain to take everything off, but much easier than expected to put back.

Fired it up, charging at 14v!

Thanks guys, learnede a bunch and saved $600.

 

Awesome. Now you know how to put it in service mode if needed again. Good luck.