I had a similar problem with another car several years ago. As I was driving one day it stalled when I pushed the clutch in to change gears. Let the clutch out and it restarted. Got it home and it wouldn't start at all. Lights all worked inside and out but it wouldn't turn over at all. Eventually found that it was a loose ground wire.
Good luck getting this sorted out

 

100% sure....
the plastic wallet ket has the antitheft chip in it...the chips are unpoeered, they are basicly a rfid chip...the battery is for the keyless entry. 2005+ refresh keys have a nimetal hydride battery....that why it is sonic welded...it gets recharched. Newer manuals reflect this. The older style key does get battery changes.
ito the op...if you have a metal key, it is likely that the prior owner bought a non keyless entry key cheaper from the dealerthan the type deliveted with the car.....hate to tell you the $$, but plan on spending a couple hundred bucks for a key and programming....fee for programming should be the same for any # of keys.

 

Nope, not the wallet key....that has a plastic shsft, and a tiny bump where the rfid/antitheft chip is in it near the top.
looks like the stand key, but the wings sre usually silver, and a button, then one button above it, and one below it....functions of the button can be programmed in the cars computer by the dealer....
key looks so beatup...wonder if the transponder in the key gave up the ghost...
Hate to see you toss $$ at the car, and spend hrs, just to find out the key is dead...
Normally, just holding a 2nd key (within an inch of the normalkey location), or trying the second key would elimnate this possibility....

 

The problem with this is that it isn't a traditional switch. Instead, it's a Hall effect sensor which is nice because there aren't moving parts or contacts to wear out, but it makes testing it tougher.

 

Like i said though this is the only key that i ever had with this car. I'm planning on a trip here to MINI saturday, to get whatever I actually need to have key-wise. Plus I absolutely need a spare! I did however do the "key test" posted earlier on in this thread and the key still checks out. (The ding test)

 

So, I've done everything mentioned on hear today that i could of course with still no positive results. Couldn't really figure out the volt meter testing of the actual clutch switch however. But my thoughts now are swaying towards cleaning up the positive and ground connections attached to the starter. Mainly because my twice-changed-still-leaking thermostat has made a mess near the starter and maybe, just maybe, the connections are not as "clean" as they should be. Then if that's not the case, going to remove the starter and take it to local advanced auto to have it tested. Then I of course need to buy the "superior" thermostat gasket that i read about today. Getting real sick of making sure my coolant level is to par all the time. Trust me though guys, I've never let this car overheat. Never rose past middle marker, just sick and tired of these cheap gaskets on the "new" thermostats. So anyways, that's my plans now, since once again tonight was a failure. But I thank everyone so much for all the suggestions so far!!!

 

So took the car to a local shop, yesterday afternoon.

Just couldn't get to the bottom of this in time!!! But thanks everyone, and I'll let you know what they end up telling me about this.... For sure , just in case anyone will be curious, and/or might help someone else in the future with similar symptoms.

 

So just in case anyone needs this info in the future. This was the starter.... I had to end up taking it to a mechanic, and go through 2 different starters to find this out, but yes it was the starter. They ordered the wrong one on Thursday (the night I took it in), then didn't get the correct one until today (Tuesday). So on my way out to go get it FINALLY!!!!!!! I have the late model R53, and warned them about that at the beginning, but oh well, not too upset, because I'll be back in it within the hour!!

 

Just to be on the Safe Side, get two new keys made no matter what the cost.

The key you posted with photos looks unsafe to be using and may quite on you when you need it to work.

Have the Dealer program the new keys and you should be good to Go Motoring !

 

I completely understand, and am taking your advice 120%.... Thanks for the input... I planned on getting these made at the beginning of this whole ordeal, but still haven't (mainly just because I was able to rule it out, and was searching for the root of this problem), so just moved this to the TOP of my to-do-list good lookin out .... Thanks again MiniKar.

 

I know this is all late and all, but I started having the same issue. Checked everywhere and tried the magnet trick, which only made it clear to me that it was not the clutch switch. In my case, strangely enough, was the position of my steering wheel. If it's up, it won't start. Pull it down and it starts every time, well since I figured it out, just a couple of days ago. So, I have no idea WHY this works but it does. Maybe I have a short in the steering column. Any other ideas why this works???