No you don't need to change plug with wires, but we do recommend putting in these colder heat range plugs anytime you install a pulley.

As for Nology wires, they are way over marketed, they don't increase HP. Actually did some test and lost power with them.

 

Very true.

 

hey there, what type of piggy back can i install to add on to my ECU of an R53? i havent done a tune to my car...so far i have installed shrick cam, 15% pulley, nology hot wires, bmc open port cai, changed the exhaust from the mid part (center cat) with Sebring exhaust...

what to do next? tune? piggy back? types of headers? oh no im so confused?

 

NONE, piggy back ecu's don't work on the R50/R53 MINI's. Save your money.

 

As far as piggy back ecu go on the R53 - anything that interspects the MAP signal will cause CELs. If you use the AEM FIC and only control injectors and not MAP it works fine. But we dont use AEM FICs on MINIs anymore because reasonable cost flash software has come out and now there is no need for piggyback ECUs. We use the Mynes software/hardware package to tune the R53s. It works very well and once you have it your not tied to any tuner. The software can be used by anyone with the skill to use it.
With your current mods, the best upgrade is going to be a tune and header. You should also be running cold spark plugs like the Brisk we sell http://www.sneed4speed.com/brisk-lgs...-set-for-mini/ or OEM JCW plugs.

 

As mentioned avoid the piggy back. Install colder plugs (NGK Iridiums) and you can do a header. As for the tune, Jan is probably the best on the market for tunes.

http://www.revolutionmini.com/

 

Hello everyone. Not here to debate WHICH plug to use, so forgive me if my question is inappropriate. I have the Brisk silver plugs, DR14YS (one step colder), and I am curious if anyone has the appropriate specs for the gap and torque. I believe the torque is 20ftlbs, but I am unsure of the gap, or if they come pre-gapped. Any insight would be appreciated.

 

You need to check the gap as usually they are pregapped. The factory gap is .032.
Then tourque them to 20ft/lbs, then start the car and warm it up before a final tighten to 22 ft/lbs.

 

Is anybody opposed to the NGK PLATINUMS?

 

Here are the four choices I've found for plugs for a 2007 MCS. My plugs haven't blown out of the head and I do use a torque wrench on a cold engine.

NGK
Normal heat: ILZKBR7A-8G
1 Step Colder: LKAR8AI-9
NGK USA 877-473-6767

Brisk
Normal heat: QR14LS
1 Step Colder: QR12LS
Brisk: 281-299-1095

I have the Brisks now with about 10K miles on them, but my engine sputters. After changing the Air Mass Meter and cleaning the other sensors the next step is to change plugs. The NGK plugs were the top recommendation. I'll send the Brisk plugs back to them for an assesment of what's happening in the engine.

I have a request to those of you posting. I look often for little jewels of insight and many times the posts are simply an indictment of those of us who are apparently doing things incorrectly. I think it would be more helpful to post knowledge and insights. Case in point. I just read a post that crabbed about those of us who don't torque our bolts and don't know what anti-seize does to torque values. Wouldn't it be better to simply share correct torque values and explain what anti-seize does to torque values. That way the dufffers like myself can up our knowledge and gain better Mini mechanic skills. IMHO.

Any input on plugs or sputtering engines would be appreciated. BTW the new mass air meter brought my air to fuel numbers back into a workable range. The car was running very lean, even with a tune. The plugs are the next step before new O2 sensors. Unless there is a HP fuel pump issue I don't know why my car sputters (on load.)

 

Which brisk plugs are you using? If your engine is sputtering the gap is probably to wide. You should not gap any plugs but old school standard spark plugs. Its very easy to mess up the tip of the newer plugs and cause problems.

All the Brisk plugs we sell are pre gapped. Drop them in and go.

The best tuning software is the Bytetronik Full Access software and then we or another qualified tuner in your area can tune it because, you the car owner owns the software, not the tuner like with Jan's tuning. http://www.sneed4speed.com/r53-bytet...ss-tuning-kit/ If Jan tunes your car you will always have to use him in the future for retunes or start from scratch.

 

I have an R56. The NGK plugs come gapped at .036. The Brisk I don't know.
The NGK plugs I just got in the mail and they are iridium, so can't gap them. The Brisk plugs are silver.

I just had the car on the dyno and it's back to full power but it still sputters. I noticed the other day after 60 miles on the freeway.

 

sputters at speed or idle?

 

It sputters when under load. It has happened at normal highway speeds with the rpm over 3000, it has happened when downshifting from 6 to 5 and accelerating, it has happened going up the mountains in 3rd under load. I dyno'd the car and it was in a lean fuel state, tested the Air Mass Meter and found it faulty, replaced it and the A/F ratios went back to normal over the RPM range (14's at idle to high 11's at upper RPMs). But when driving on the highway recently I noticed it sputtering so I shifted up and let off the gas immediately.
Never had an engine sputter before. Thanks for the follow up.

 

Have you ever changed the fuel filter? The length of a dyno pull and a highway pull are very different and your fuel system may not be able to keep up over longer periods at high speed.

 

You know I haven't changed that filter. It's one of those messy little jobs that I am not spiked to do. And I don't have a lift to do it without getting gasoline everywhere. I'll look in the Bentley manual to see if its something I can do or better to take it to a shop close by. What's your experience with that little project. BTW will install the plugs as soon as it warms up a little. It's 5 degrees here.

 

Fuel Filter is accessed from within the car, under rear seat area.

 

We never recommend brisk plugs we just se way to many problems with that brand.

 

I have to try one thing at a time. I removed the Brisk Plugs and they were quite fouled up. I replace them with NGK and the car seems to run OK when warm but needs a good time to get up to temperature. It still sputters. It did it last night when the car wasn't quite warmed up. It was a significant experience. As if the engine quit as soon as I accelerated. It sputtered getting on the highway as well.

The NGK's are one step colder than stock. I am going to try the Brisk plugs, also one step colder than stock and they will gap them for me properly.

I'm not sure where to go from here. I've identified the instructions and parts to replace the fuel filter if necessary. The O2 sensors would be suspicious as well.

I'll get to the bottom of this. Anymore ideas will be appreciated.
Dan

 

Dan: They told me at Brisk:
" Dan,

Here is the link for the socket, also do not use anti-seize with our plugs:

http://www.briskracing.com/brisk-pre...-socket-detail

Please torque the plugs to 10.8-14.5 ft/lbs"


In the Mini manual they say 23 Nm

 

LOLz I love spark plug threads. Especially when we're indexing 4 prong plugs