I'm in the process of replacing all 4 shocks and was following the instructions per this link (step 7) http://www.minicarparts.net/Instruct...structions.cfm. Unfortunately when I attempted to remove the steering knuckle was damaged by my Ball Joint Separator. I have discovered you don't need to remove the knuckle and the shock has been replaced. Now I'm in deep trouble with my significant other as she didn't want me to start this on a Friday.

Here's the problem child.


Any advice on re-threading the bolt would be greatly appreciated.

JT

 

I can't really tell with just a closeup what that is. Whatever that is you need a new one..

Ball joints often are riveted in from the factory. You grind the rivets, and the new ones have bolts. It doesn't quite look right for that though.

Tie rod ends unscrew, new ones screw on. Counting the turns will get you close to alignment. There are flat spots on them to turn them after loosening the lock nut.

 

As an aside, how did you figure out how to get the factory shock/spring assembly out without having to remove that lower ball joint? Leaving the ball joint in place, I can't lower the hub assembly enough to get enough clearance for the shock/spring to come down out of the shock tower.

As for your threads, you can clean them up a little with the edge of a corner file, and then get a tap/die set to clean them the rest of the way. The die is to clean up the threaded post, and the tap will clean up the threads on the nut, if they were damaged as well.

The threaded portion in your picture that's all bunged up should be an M12 x 1.5 (12 millimeter diameter, 1.5 millimeter thread pitch).

 

I'm with Scott on this. A thread restoring file can do the whole job, and a die would be even better if you have one. Personally, I have both, but I would have no qualms about carefully filing. No need to replace the balljoint for the last two threads being bunged. Those threads aren't even in the metal part of the nut, anyway, but just the nylon. You won't risk anything, although proper procedure dictates using brand new nylock nuts. I simply use Loctite blue. You still have to figure out how to get the balljoint out, however. Is your tool the adjustible kind, with two positions? Perhaps you had it in the wrong position, and it put a side load on the threaded part of the joint. No matter what kind of tool, I NEVER use them full force to pop out the joint. I always put some good pressure on there, then give it a quick tap with a hammer to pop it free.