Replaced the stock clutch at 88K.

 

96k on a just purchased 04mcs with a teenager learning how to drive it. Mini dealer said it is nearing the end. Seller included clutch & parts with sale.

 

120080 miles on my stock clutch and still going strong. it's an s, got it used at 106500 miles.

 

The clutch in my 06 MCS was replaced at 37k. I now have 97k on current unit. Clutch has squelled ever since the replacement on cold mornings.

 

Got my 2002 MCS with about 93000 miles on it. It now has 118000 a year later, and it still feels like the day I got it. It's the original clutch and it hasn't even begun to chatter yet, knock on wood. Must have been a wednesday build

 

Just clicked 228,000 on the original clutch. Speed matching is the trick, never slip it or downshift it. Brakes are cheaper than clutches. And those don't wear either!

 

Still on original clutches in my 02's...the justa has 85k, and the S has 35k.

 

2005 R53 with 45K (its my second car). Original clutch is still going strong. Makes the chattering noise at iddle sometimes but I just ignore it. I think it just a charator flaw if the R53. Just keep driving and enjoying it. When it goes it goes...

 

I try not to look down on other people's driving habits, but your description of feathering the clutch all the way through first gear gave me the heebie jeebies all over.

I've only got 6000 miles on my MINI, but I sold my Jeep at 140,000 miles with the factory clutch still behaving perfectly. I'm hoping for something similar on the MINI. Actually, given the way the warranty is set up, I should probably burn out the clutch at 99,000 miles and start with a free one at that point.

 

~ 80K on original clutch.

 

Hell yeah that sounds like a damn good Idea! Haha Do it at like 93k so you don't look too suspicious. . . I wish I had the factory warranty still!

 

Yep. How you work the clutch is a HUGE factor in clutch life. Far more than any other factor. My wife used to have a 90 Accord EX 2 door. A great car, actually. But her idea of using the clutch when taking off was to rev the engine and then slip the clutch until she was up to about 20 mph. I had to retrain her to not slip the clutch so much. (Changed it out at 128,000 inspite of her driving habits.)

 

My 09 MCS has 26K on original clutch. Works just fine.
My 05 GTO has 109000 on it with the original clutch and it has been driven HARD. I'm hearing some throwout bearing noise so it won't be long now. I got my monies worth that's for sure.

 

Our '02 MCS has 110,000+ miles on the original clutch, but the cool/damp mornings start with that squeal in 1st. The clutch pedal engages close to the floor too, at least compared to our '10 MCS. The '02 is the winter MINI so I've been making plans for the upcoming clutch replacement.

 

LOL...I think if the clutch burns out anytime after 80K, it would be a pretty cold-hearted dealer that tried to blame it on user error. Actually, when I bought my CM, I saw one up on the lift, and its clutch had gone at 8,000 or so. Even though the dealer was pretty confident the guy had burned it out by riding it, they were still honoring it under warranty.

I think it would be pretty funny to break everything possible between 90,000-100,000 miles to try to get all new stuff before the warranty went. I wonder how much they'd let you do before they got fed up.

 

04 MCS bought used.......98480 and functions perfectly so far. Was told when I bought it it was original clutch.

 

I did it on my R50, as part of a tranny swap (now has R53 trans). I've done three other FWD clutches, and two RWD. I'm no pro, but love wrenching. I didn't think the R50 was any more difficult than a typical modern FWD. Once The battery and airbox was out, I was surprised at the ease of access from above. Your car, obviously, is different in that area. I would think that after all the supercharger intake plumbing was aside, it would be similar, though. Bentley says to drop the subframe (my Saab was same way), but I actually pulled the engine and trans as a unit, and split them on my workbench. If you've done another FWD, I wouldn't hesitate to do the R53. If not, realistically assess your skills. If this is a daily, having it disassembled while you are learning might be a serious inconvenience.

 

Oh, and to answer the question: My R50 was at 123,000 when I pulled the blown Midlands out of there. It visually needed replacing, and of course I needed to anyway, with the Getrag swap. But the original owner reported no issues with it to that point.

 

Got the car back last Thursday. Turns out that the throw-out bearing failed. Clutch disc and plate were fine.

 

My 02 R53 has 136k+ and still has a strng grab. Living in Nor Cal, I am forced int stop & go traffic every day. And I can still start easily in 2nd.

 

I bought my R53 with 48k and a grumbling throw out bearing. I nursed it to 57k before it nuked. There were buts of t/o bearing all o ER the bottom of the tranny housing. Detroit Tuned put in a Valeo single mass and I am nothing but smiles.

Motor On!
Chris

 

Replaced the original clutch at 98K in my 02 R53 because the throwout bearing seized - clutch plate was still good. Now at 154K and the clutch is still good.

 

Well this thread has turned interesting for me - I'm seeing a trend of the throwout bearing being a weak link. I've got the Exedy single mass conversion for R53 in my R50. Dollar for dollar, I would have felt more comfortable going with the Valeo. I chose the Exedy because the flywheel is much lighter. Depending on the mileage I get out of it, I figure I can always surface it, and throw a Valeo 3 piece on there next time around. I can't comment on the longevity of the Exedy, as I've only got 3k on it. FYI: The flywheel itself was 20.8lbs (per my shipping scale), which is not too far off from the 18lb R50 unit, and a far cry from the 28lb (or so I hear) stock R53 dual mass. I'm pretty sure I recall that the Valeo singlemass is listed at 25 or 26lb.

So if someone is doing a Getrag conversion in the future, and wants a cheap, light (relatively) flywheel, PM me for an update.

 

How can we tell when a new clutch is needed?

 

Slippage will be apparent under load in a high gear. Where I live, it's all hills, so get on the highway (at normal highway speed) and find a hill. Mash the throttle in top gear. If you accelarate, it's gripping. If the engine revs but you don't go any faster, take it easy - you are on borrowed time.