R50/53 3rd LED brake light out. fuse? or is it toast
3rd LED brake light out. fuse? or is it toast
3rd brake light up above near spoiler is out. been out for some time now I assume, caught it the other day when the car was atthe shop and they were pulling it into the service bay.
is there a fuse for this? or does the fuse control the other 2 brake lights as well? (those 2 work). I'm guessing that the top led strip is toast....anyone know of this? replacement I read is around 150-160$.....hurt!
is there a fuse for this? or does the fuse control the other 2 brake lights as well? (those 2 work). I'm guessing that the top led strip is toast....anyone know of this? replacement I read is around 150-160$.....hurt!
I have a rear brake light that is cosmetically awful but in working order electrically.


Top picture is of it lit; bottom picture is of it still in the car. I have since replaced it with a light in better shape.
Your first move should be to pull it out and put a volt meter on the power to the light; have somebody else stand on the brakes (with the key on) to see if 12v is going to the light. If it is, the LED strip or something on it is probably burnt out. I haven't pulled it apart, but the circuit board is held on by plastic pins that are melted into place to hold it in. If you are at all handy, you could pop your old circuit board off and glue/speed nut/whatever the one from my light on.
PM me if you are interested and we'll talk price (cheap). I'll be gone for the first part of July so act fast or you'll have to wait until mid-month.
Val


Top picture is of it lit; bottom picture is of it still in the car. I have since replaced it with a light in better shape.
Your first move should be to pull it out and put a volt meter on the power to the light; have somebody else stand on the brakes (with the key on) to see if 12v is going to the light. If it is, the LED strip or something on it is probably burnt out. I haven't pulled it apart, but the circuit board is held on by plastic pins that are melted into place to hold it in. If you are at all handy, you could pop your old circuit board off and glue/speed nut/whatever the one from my light on.
PM me if you are interested and we'll talk price (cheap). I'll be gone for the first part of July so act fast or you'll have to wait until mid-month.
Val
So was there a fuse involved here or did your 3rd LED brake light just die? Curious since i just ordered a replacement for $70 shipped from MiniMoss. I got the Black/clear light since i have a black roof.
When i bought my '06 MC it was not functioning and the red lense was completely broken off/missing. I wonder how on earth you could break one of those.. doesnt look like it in a spot that would have a high probability of damage
So.. was there a burnt fuse?
When i bought my '06 MC it was not functioning and the red lense was completely broken off/missing. I wonder how on earth you could break one of those.. doesnt look like it in a spot that would have a high probability of damage
So.. was there a burnt fuse?
actually I ordered the new brake light strip and ended up taking the existing one out only to find that it wasn't plugged in all the way. so all I did was plug it back in and it worked. I returned the new one after that...maybe yours is a fuse....?
My 2008 Clubman S failed inspection since the rear LED (3rd brake light) was not working. On this model it is the clear one which spans most of the roof width. Priced a new one at the dealer for $115. Removing it requires taking out 8 Torx T25 screws - 4 in the roof extension just under the LED bar and 4 more in the roof just inside the barn doors. Disconnected the connector and checked for 12V. Was getting 11.83V. Had left the assembly dangling by the window washer hose and balanced either end on the sides of the door posts while I was making the electrical measurement with wife pushing on the brake pedal, but the washer hose slipped off and the assembly fell down onto the bumper. I reconnected the assembly 12V connector and the red LEDs came to life. Uncertain whether shock from dropping it caused it to work again or whether the connector was not making a good connection initially. It's a latching type 2 pin connector and definitely clicks when fully inserted. Problem solved, although will keep an eye on it so see if it malfunctions again.
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