I'm about to do all the brakes on Emily ('02 MCS, <40,000 miles), and I'm gonna do the rotors as well (I got a great deal on slotted rotors).
I know it's a pretty basic job, but do I need an impact driver to remove the Torx (T50?) retaining bolt?
And other than cold beer, do I need anything else?
Thanx, Hegira

 

Depends on what you mean by "remove".
If it's been on there since 2002, you may need a thermonuclear device.

It's likely to shear off when you attempt to remove it, no matter what you use. An air impact wrench works best and easiest by far on these... but even with that, there are no guarantees. Lots of folks break theirs, especially on older MINIs. All it does is hold the rotor stationary when the wheel is off, making it *a little* easier to change wheels. That's it. It has no real functional use. So if you break it, you have two choices: (a) ignore it and live without it, or (b) get an extractor set and PB Blaster and a propane torch and a drill and go to work removing the stub...

There are excellent brake job how-to's by OctaneGuy here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...beginners.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tml#post550345

 

Check out this URL.

http://soopercooperinfo.com/

It has a world of MINI how-to information. Check out the section titled BRAKES. You will find exactly what you are looking for.

I will eventully delve into these murky waters myself and sure don't want to bollix things.

(I'll talk to buzzsaw at our next meeting about including information on cold beer and its proper DIY project application throughout his web site. )

 

Thank you both.
I have read OG's write-up on brake-pad changes, but he didn't say much on rotor replacement.
Thanks Paul, for the heads-up on the Torx bolt. Maybe a half-pound of C4....
And that URL looks promising, Brick. There's a ton of stuff there.

 

Yeah, I had to drill one out. Not and easy thing to do but I did eventually get it out.

 

Sprat PB blaster on it and let that work for a while. I have an 4 year old mini that lives in the northeast like yours and mine were a snap (ha, not like that) to get off with an 18 inch breaker bar.

 

Once the calipers are off, you also have to remove the pad carrier bracket (two bolts from the back side). Then the torx screw, and the rotor literally falls off. Unless it's corroded onto the hub. Then you get to beat the heck outta it with a hammer.

 

My rotor torx screws had never been removed for 5+ years, so I was afraid I was going to have problems.

Everyone talked about PBblaster, but I could not find the stuff, so I just bought "Knock er loose" --- sounded good enough for me.

Anyway, I sprayed the torx bolt the night before as others suggested and then again the morning of the job.

Insert a couple of wheel bolts and place a bar between them touching the floor so that the wheel doesn't turn as you attempt to remove the torx bolt.

Make sure the torx bit is the proper size and use a long breaker bar.

With gentle tapping of the bar and another spraying of knockerlose all four bolts came out without a hitch.

Good luck!

 

Yep, I've done brakes for a number of folks and this is my method for getting the torx out of the rotors and I've yet to break one.

Soak it good for about an hour is usually sufficient. Use a two bolt and rod method to wedge the wheel so it absolutely won't move. Use an 18 inch breaker bar, one hand to press the torx socket firmly into the hole - do NOT let it slip else you round things and you're screwed - one hand is plenty to get the needed leverage. If it does not budge, soak it again. Take your time.

And you only need to remove the caliber bracket for the front rotors. There is enuf room to get the rears off (smaller diameter) with just the caliber out of the way; no need to remove the bracket (the screws are harder to get to, you'll be happy you don't need to pull them).

 

Thanks, all. The rotors came in to work today (I work for a small hard-part store on the South Shore) and they look awesome. I'm looking forward to this job. I just need a couple more things (like an extra T50, just in case), and I'll plan an afternoon of it.
I've got a line on a set of 4 new rims and slightly used tires to replace the S-lites and run-flats I'm riding (?) on now.
Mega-psych!

 

You'll need a tool to rotate and compress the pistons on the rear brakes.

 

Some progressive pictures with commentary, edited or not, would be fun.

...and additionally helpful to those of us looking ahead to our own similar ordeal.

 

Here is a link I found on our site that addresses brake caliper compression. It may help.