Universal City is better then Bob Smith

 

This inspection you guys are talking about, is that the number that pops up when your key is in the "1" position and then goes away and it shows your miles?? You know i had my dad change my oil for me last night, the number is at -175 and so im thinking it will go away lol anyway it hasn't gone away...how do you get that number to go away!!?? I dont want a negative there... thanks

 

Here is one version of the "reset" process:
1)Push-hold Trip Button (TB) while turning key to first position
2)Continue to hold (TB), the number 15A will show to the left of the mileage
4)Release (TB) for 3 sec and then hold (TB) again
5)In about 5-8 sec "RST" will show in the left corner
6)Release and then hold again "15000" will show, press and release
7)Car is now reset to the 15,000 service and will count down from 15,000.

Note: the 15A and RST are a little difficult to read because of Capital and Small letters

Here is another:
1) Press and hold the trip odometer button.
2) Insert car key and turn it to the first position.
3) Watch for the word "RESET" to appear on the Odometer indicator.
4) Release the trip odometer button, then press & hold it again.
5) Wait for the "RESET" message to flash.
6) Release the button, and then press & release (once only)
The Service interval is now reset.

Enjoy.

 

woo thanks. Im going to have my dad check my car out so i dont have to spend the hundreds of dollars....he's been in it for 30 years so i can confide in him

 

Great Post!

I have been looking for this type of info for a while. You mention a few things ( italicized and underlined) that I lack the "know-how" to do though.

Does anyone know of a step by step guide for this? Also.....maybe someone on NAM could make a thread of How-to's that is all inclusive....from oil and sunroof to supercharger and changing belts to window fixing.... a knd of "one-stop-shop" for the DIY'er.

Inspection I Undercarriage

• Change motor oil and filter
• Check transmission for leaks
• Check rear axle for leaks
• Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks
• Check condition, position and mounting of exhaust system and check for leaks
• Check power steering system for leaks. Check fluid level and add fluid if necessary
• Check steering for absences of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc
• Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs (what kind of grease and how do you do this?)
  
• Check front control arm bushings for wear
• Check brake system connections and lines for leaks, damage and incorrect positioning
• Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary
• Check and correct all tire pressure (including spare). Check condition of tires, tire wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear, adjust wheel alignment if requested (billed separately)
  
  Engine Compartment
• Read out diagnostic system
• Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze if required
• Check level of brake/clutch fluid in reservoir. Add if required
• Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Add if required
• Check air conditioner for operation
• Reset service indicator
  
  Body / Electrical
• Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required
• Perform battery load test
• Check lighting system. Including headlights, fog, parking, reverse, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors and luggage compartment area lights.
• Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination
• Check all warning/indicator lights, check control
• Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer and flasher switch
• Check wipers and washer system, wiper blades and washer jet positions
• Check condition and function of safety belts
• Visually examine the airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories
• Check central locking/double locks
• Replace batteries for alarm remote controls in all master keys
• Oil hood, trunk and door hinges. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
• Replace microfilter
• Check heater/AC blower, rear window defogger
• Check rear view and side mirrors
• Activate automatic roll-over protection system (if equipped) via diagnostic link. (Note: First remove hardtop/lower top)
  
  Final Inspection
• Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission

 

Do the scheduled inspections need to be done at the dealer to keep the warrantee valid?

I don't have a lot of trust in my dealer these days.

 

NO.
I live 130 miles from any dealer so I do my own work.
Never had a hard time with warranty work when I did take it in.

 

There is guide for ALL of this stuff. It's a Bentley manual. Gives step by step instructions for nearly everything. A "must have" in my opinion. Haynes manuals are good too, but the pictures are not quite as pretty.

The wheel centering hubs can be coated with a nice thin layer of AntiSeize. This will help keep the wheel from sticking on the hub.

 

Thanks for the Bentley info

During my search of DIY Mini stuff, I came across this website: http://www.soopercooperinfo.com/

It has everything from aftermarket parts to fixing almost anything on a Mini. Its a really good site

 

After having owned Toyotas for the last dozen years and not having to do much in the area of maintenance, and getting oil changes for $29, I have now gone back to my "shade tree mechanic" ways with my 2005 MCS and do all my own maintenance. I have already saved over $1,000 by doing my own oil changes, brake job and install of my JCW intake. My "local" Mini dealer is 60+ miles away which is to far to drive to get hosed on high prices, and the local "specialty" shops are pretty expensive as well.

I am enjoying wrenching on my car again. It is a "bonding experience"!

 

My own writeups are located as a sticky in the 1st gen int/ext mods including my popular "brake pad article for beginners"

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...mpilation.html

Richard

 

Inspection service is the meat and potatoes of the business. Economy pushes sales down, service still provides revenues. And people are willing to pay.

Plus, for me, nearby mini service is run out of the BMW dealership. You can tell where the money goes - 3-4 valet boys, spotless lounge, coffee, donuts, personal shuttle service to/from anywhere, wash/clean/vacuum after. Easliy worth $100.

 

Speaking of maintenance....


Does anyone know what is included in a 100k mile service? I do a tune-up (oil change/plugs change/oil filter) every 6-7k miles. New K&N air filter, Redline in the transmission, new ECB brake pads (by the way thanks Octaneguy - its been a while and a quick read through got me back into the game)

Am I missing something? I have noticed that after the dealer did a 50k mile service, my clutch was more responsive. Was I imagining it or did they do something to it?

Thanks in advance.

 

fwiw, i just took my car to the dealership for inspection 2. i had them replace my pulley belt (15% reduction) and asked them NOT to change my oil. total price was $319.00.

i would have had a heart attack if it was $650, that is some serious wrong!

 

$320 for replacing a pulley belt seems high. I have about 91k on my Mini and will need to get a belt soon I am sure but I will change it myself if possible. Maybe I will put a reduction pulley on as well.

 

just FYI it is illegal for dealerships to charge such ridiculous prices for oil changes. i read that somewhere -- though i don't remember where exactly.

you can take it to court though if you feel you have been charged an unfair price for a given service.

 

the pulley belt was just one of the things done on inspection 2...

 

A couple months ago, I had the 30k service/inspection done at Mini of Peabody (north of Boston). Cost me under $350.

 

I'm afraid that's not actually the case. It's legal to charge all the market will bear.

You'll need to be able to demonstrate damages. Good luck with that.