I've read a lot of posts on the topic, but I'm wonder what spark plug I should buy for my bare bones stock 02. Any suggestions and will I need to adjust the gap? I see some plugs are pre-gapped. I'd prefer to go with the most maintenance free as possible, but better mileage/performance would be a nice option too.

 

For a no questions asked result, just swap out the old plugs for the same ones. Should be a Laser Platinum NGK, about $6-7 each and good for 50k miles.
http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=960&PTSet=A

 

Thanks!! You've been one of the only members to reply to the several posts I've made! Will I need to adjust the gap? I've never replaced plugs in any of my cars, in fact, I just changed the oil in the MINI today..never have done that before either. Thanks again!

 

No on the gap. Those will be pre-gapped right out of the box. Just a little anti-seize on the threads and the proper torque (Bentley book says 20lb-ft) and you'll be good to go in no time.

 

i agree with hemiheaded 18. just go with the NGK's. i've had nothing but good luck with them. ran them in my old car, snowmobiles, dirt bikes, and motorcycles. If i could remember the exact part number for the MINI i'd give it to you. also make sure not to get any anti-seize on the ground or the electrode, the plug won't fire if that happens! (kinda know from past happenings )

 

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. BKR6EQUP
Part # (stocking number) 3199

 

Thanks!! You guys have been GREAT!

 

I hate to ask another question on the topic, I really need to get a Bentley manual..but, any suggestions on the proper socket size, brand and any other supplies I'll need? Again, many thanks!

 

go to sears or another part store and pick up a 5/8 socket and a really long extension so you can get down past the valve cover. once you get those you should be ready to change them out.

 

THANKS! Do the wires just pull straight out, just grab as close to it's bottom as possible? The anti-seize I understand, but was there a grease of sorts that should go on the top of the plug to easy in the removal next time? Is there any reason to replace the wires at the same time. If so, I've read about ones that produce a 'hotter' spark..what's the benefit, if any?

 

Wires aren't needed unless damaged or worn. I did mine just for the fun of it. As for the grease, you want a glob of di-electric grease on the end of the plug boot and on the top of the plug itself to prevent it from sticking. For removing the wires, just grab it at the base and gently tug straight up, don't yank it. If you have to, wiggle it a little just to break the seal. As for any "hotter wires", it's all a load. If you need them, just get a good, OEM style replacement. MSD makes a good set as does Kingsborne.

 

Thanks! What's the 'end of the plug boot'? I understand the top, where the wires attach, but where else?

 

 

Where the wires attach to both the coil and the top of the plug itself. Just plop some on both of those and you'll be good to go.

 

Thanks again, I did find NGK IRIDIUM IX SPARK PLUGS, will these also work?

 

Can't see any reason they wouldn't even though some people have said (not MINI people) that their cars run better on lower end plugs. Granted, that was from some idiot in a Geo who came into my work so take that into consideration.

 

Irridium tipped plugs are generally used on higher voltage aftermarket setups like the MSD Coils. They are supposed to handle the heat that the extra voltage creates. As a technician, I don't see the benefit in a stock vehicle. The NGK's from the factory will do just fine.

The best way to remove the wires from the plugs is to hold the boot as close to the valve cover as possible and twist to break the seal between the plug and the boot. Once this is done they pop straight off. If you don't break the seal first, you may leave some of the iginition cable on the plug.

Should you change your wires? I don't see why not. They are very easy to do and may save you problems down the road. It's easy to tell when a wire shorts out and bleeds spark that it's bad, but as they age the resistance can increase which gives your plugs less ability to ignite your air/fuel mixture. Over time this can have an impact on your fuel milage. I would replace them just so you don't have to worry about it anymore.

You need a 5/8 spark plug socket to remove the plugs. The differance between a deep 5/8 and an actual spark plug socket is the rubber grommet inside. This purpose of this is to hold on to the plug during removal AND installation, but it also acts as a guide to help prevent cracking the ceramic on the plug. A little bit of anti-seize is recommended for the threads, you don't need to put on a bunch. The idea is to coat the threads lightly to keep the dissimilar metals from corroding together. As far as extensions go, I use a straight 12 inch extension to pull the plugs out of an S. I haven't looked at a non-S, but assume it's about the same.

 

^^ GOOD advice!

 

THANKS, I appreciate your input!