Has anyone besides me has problems after installing aftermarket wheels and tires. Slight vibrations. I got the hubcentric rings and it still in the steering wheel doesnt feel as smooth as with the stock wheels and tires.

Also, random question- I have a 2002 MCS and if the previous owner didnt take the car in for any recalls and fixes how would I be able to check. Could I go into a Mini dealer and have them just fix all the recalls and stuff or check to see If they were done through my VIN NUMBER. Would these fixes be free of charge. My car is out of warranty so do recalls not get fixed then?

 

Recalls get fixed regardless of warranty or not. No charge. Its a manufacturer defect, therefore they pay for it. As for the wheels, loosen all the lugs to where you could spin them by hand. Then, IN THE AIR, re-torque all the wheels. Also, do it specified torque levels. I believe its 87-92(?)lb.-ft. If you torque them on the ground, they won't sit flush against the hub and will vibrate. One last note, recheck them every few weeks to keep them good and tight.

 

Agreed. For wheels, you need to get them at least partially torqued while they are up in the air. Tighten the bolts in an X pattern. For new wheels, at least, it is good practice to re-torque them after a week as they can loosen up until they get seated. You shouldn't need to keep re-torquing.

 

Yes, just got past this issue myself.

The previous responses are correct.

I might add that you might try stepping up to full torque in increments. What I did was remove the wheel, checked the ring for wear, started the bolts and snugged them up by hand. Then torqued starting at 30 ft/lbs in a x pattern, then up to 60, then up to full torque.

Also if the wheel and tire are significantly lighter then stock you might feel more vibration since there is less dampening..

 

Were the wheels balanced before installation? Just a thought.

 

One other thing to check is if the hub rings fit SNUG on the hub itself. If they don't you can actually have the wheel a bit off center. I found this to be the case with my wheels. I just put a bit of brass sheeting on the ring and now it centers with no problems.

 

I have the exact same issue. I've tried the suggestions listed above with no luck (except for the brass sheeting; I may have to try that). I've had them balanced at two separate places, same result.

I've written mine off to the point duffer brings up about lighter wheels. That being said, I'd love to find a solution. The vibration is just plain annoying...

-Ed

 

My solution in a bit more depth......

I took some brass sheeting ( I have no idea what size, a bit thicker than aluminum foil) and wrapped a small bit of it at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions on my rings. They were a bit tough to get on the hub, but my shake completely went away after this.

Hope this helps !

 

are your rings that far out of spec? that's no good. it sounds like some of you guys should spring for some new hubcentric rings that fit better/correctly.

 

I have lots of aftermarket and stock wheels and tires. None give me vibrations of any kind.

When did you do your last 4 wheel thrust alignment? It's probably a good thing every two years espeically if your roads are bad and full of potholes.

Do you have any suspension upgrades? Do you have any worn suspension parts? How many miles on your MINI?

Which wheels and tires did you upgrade to?

Rings should always fit precisely in your wheels and on your hubs (56.1mm). There should be NO play.

 

Mine measured 56.1mm (with a real old caliper LOL) also but there was just a very small bit of play. I just layered a bit of material on it to make it tight.

And some dealers don't stock a 56.1 ring. Most will supply a 56.15mm (this may be my situation)

 

I ordered a set of aluminum rings from here and so far so good.
http://www.1010tires.com/hubrings.asp

 

The "torque the lugs carefully" solution is the best one. The conical shape of the lug bolts will center the wheel quite well, hubcentric ring or not, if you go 'round the wheel carefully torquing the lugs. Best with the car in the air, though some weight on the front tires may be necessary unless you have a partner in the car depressing the brake to keep the wheel from turning. A little weight is OK since the tire itself will "give" as the lugs are torqued. "Torque bars" on air-powered impact wrenches are NOT precise enough, do not rely on them.

Hubcentric rings help center the wheel UNTIL torqued, which is important, but after that aren't really doing much since most of the loads are carried by the 'frictional interface' between the wheel and hub - which in turn is dependent on proper lug torque. That's why wheel manufacturers can get away with nylon for this application, except in racing applications where the nylon (plastic) can melt.

So... properly torque your lugs, and if you have them, use good centering rings. If that doesn't help, check wheels and tires for balance (weight), roundness (hop or out of "round"), and true (side to side). If they're used, the tires may have worn to the wheels, meaning the hop may not go away without new tires.

Good luck!

 

Have anyone else used Discount Tires' Ride Match Service? This is where the mount the tire on the wheel and then put it on a computer and press a roller against the wheel to simulate a load. It then measures the flex in the tire and the flex in the rim and tells the tire tech what the best position's to put the tire on the wheel. I had this done when I installed the last set of Purelli Run Flats on our '05 s. It as been the smoothest ride, even better than the car was new. $8.00 per tire and about 1 hour more time to get out the door.
I would like to here if anyone else has used this service and what you think. Stopped all of my vibration problems that just balance alone had not done.

 

I have a similar problem with vibration and took in the car for a check. The tech said the wheel was balanced but it had a flat spot in the tread. Unfortunately I did not respond in time, had I responded sooner they (discount tire) would have rejected the tire due to manf. defect and replaced it with a new tire. So I am stuck with it but from now on I will require all tires to be checked (after mounting) for this and for excessive balencing weight.

 

It was already done to my wheels when I got them from Edge. If you have the extra $32, it's worth it. It also referred to as Road force balancing. Basically, like you said, its a giant roller in front of an inflated bag. As the bag inflates, it puts a couple hundred pounds of pressure on the tire simulating the weight of the car. It will kick out a good, off balance or bad tire reading. (I've done it before) Sometimes all that needs to happen is to have the tire moved a few inches on the wheel. Good luck.

 

Did you get the 56.1's or 56.15's?