we are dealing with a topic that is very subjective and personal. i get a kick out of it everytime that i read that the front speaker replacement takes only a few hours. mine took about 3 times that long but there are several people reporting the lesser. I am clearly a gimp.

again though, my main complaint with the stock HiFi was the clipping of the highs at volume. replacing the speakers did not cure that for me. i need high (ear bleed) volumes such that i can have it loud with the roof open, the windows down and be on the freeway.
I was amazed at the hifi amp when i temporarily took it out of the back. it is so light and rather small. i was mroe dissapointed by the feel of the amp than i was by the quality look of the stock speakers.
Frankly, if i were you (or anyone else reaing this) I would not take advice from the Kook who took about 10 hours to do a 3 hour job!

 

Ah! That is a huge difference between your requirements and mine, and I'm not surprised you're getting clipping. I can't really tolerate the noise of an open sunroof at freeway speeds. Also, I've forced myself to get used to listening to music at fairly low levels - just enough to hear the full frequency range & details in the music, and drown out the road noise (with windows closed). After awhile, it seems just as loud as it used to at higher volumes. Plus, it leaves me somewhere to go for those 'special' songs (not to mention preserving my hearing for future music appreciation). Anyhow, the Focals may be just the ticket for me after all.

Thanks,
Pasta

 

So what speakers have you guys replaced with? I just want to do a direct replacement, no amps no wires.....would a installation from best buy be safe? I'll prolly go to a Jackie Cooper electronic...they are pretty good.

 

Have you read this thread?

 

i thought i read enough...i saw some use boston acoustics..? product numbers? Thanks id appreciate it...

 

Infinity Kappa 693.7i
Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6-1/2" component speaker system (not't installed yet)
Infinity Kappa 32.7cf (not't installed yet)

You want to find speakers that do not have built-in crossovers, if possible. The HIFI system has crossovers (in the amp, I think). You don't want to add more crossovers. With speakers using separate crossovers, you can just leave the crossovers out.

The 60.7cs is supposed to fit in the 5.25" speaker location, but I haven't tried it yet. If not, there is a Kappa 5.25" component speaker. Component is good because the tweeter is separate and can be used in the A pillar. If you don't want to get into the A pillar you could use the tweeters for the 6x9 location and not connect the built-in tweeters for the 693.7i.

The 692.7i would probably be more appropriate than the 693.7i if it didn't have a built-in crossover. The 693.7i has two inputs, but it is a three-way speaker. Seems to have two levels of tweeters. It may have a crossover for one or more of the tweeters, or it might not. The separate crossover has one set of wires for the woofer and one set for the two tweeters. So, the woofer can be use with just the HIFI crossover.

On my MCS, the 6x9 woofers only get mid-range frequencies. The 5.25" seems to get all the bass (very odd design).

The 32.7cf seem to have built in crossovers. Not sure what effect it will have in that location.

 

MINIQuin,

which stereo did your MINI come with? That is extremely important.

Minor for if you need 2 or 3 way components but very important to know if you have any type of amp (even stock hifi) or will just be the headunit pushing them.

Most of the really good speakers will not play loud if they are only getting a few watts of power from the head unit.

If it's the stock headunit we gotta look at the wattage of the speakers and the sensitivity of the speakers. Speakers rated for 15-20 watts generally will get louder with 10 watts than a speaker rated at 125w would with only 10 watts going to them.

The infinity brand as robin suggested is good, but don't get the Kappas if you don't have an amp (nor focals). They'll blow your head unit as they have low ohms. The regular infinity that are 4 ohm would be allright.

Best buy should be capable of changing the front speakers and the cost may be worth it if you don't have a spare morning/afternoon to do it yourself.

 

I dont have hifi stereo...if I did...i wouldn't be trying to replace them...I don't know why people are buggin about the hifi, i think it sounds great....I just have the usual stock head unit. Im not trying to replace them with super high quality speakers, just something better than the paper speakers that sound like a nail is stuck in em... So it looks like those regular infiniti's would be my best bet...Oh and nah, im not going to get into installing them myself..i need it done by a pro..

 

Yes, the Kappas are 2 ohm, which is compatible with the HIFI, but not with the stock radio. If you want Infinity, the Reference are 4 ohm, I believe.

Unixgal had the standard radio upgraded with a new amp, speakers, and a sub. As I understand it, they had to use a Cleansweep because the standard radio has crossovers in the head unit.

 

not 100% sure but I don't think so...

the head unit doesn't change between the two systems.

 

Where is the amp for the standard system? Perhaps they just left that in place, added the cleansweep, and then another amp. That would probably solve the problem one person had with getting a software upgrade after swapping amps.

 

There is no amp for the standard system. The head unit drives the speakers.

 

So, the head unit has an integrated amp, and the HIFI adds a second amp? If that's true, the crossovers are probably in the head unit, before the HIFI amp. Hmm, how would they deal with the added tweeters in the HIFI system?

Another question: Does the standard system have a tweeter in the door next to the larger speaker? There is a round cutout in the door next to the speaker. On my (HIFI) system, it is filled with a rubber plug.

 

Does anyone know the max depth for the rear 6x9s? These would be incredible if they would fit. I know some cutting required for the 8" hole.

http://www.apexjr.com/Super8.htm

 

I'm trying to recall. I sort of think there was quite a bit of space back there, but can't recall if there might of been any obstructions close enough get in the way, such as the wheel well. The only thing I put in there was insulation material, so really didn't make a mental note.

 

I'm in the same boat as some other people. This is the first time I've worked on a car's audio system before and I'm having trouble getting the terminology down and the specifics of it down. Most of the information here is geared towards people with the HiFi system, but I have the stock, base model stereo/speaker set up. I'd really like to get some help if I can.

What I'd like to do is add an amplifier (it'd have to be in the boot where the HiFi amp would be because I have DSC so it won't fit under the passenger seat) and replace the front speakers. So far here's what I understand:

- I need to put the amp in the boot and secure it to the sidewall
- I need to run an 8 gauge wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the amp

What I don't understand:

- The stock speakers are 4 ohm, so do I need to get 4 ohm speakers to replace them even though I'm putting in an amp? Could I use 2 ohm speakers with an amp?
- ANSWERED: How many speakers are in the doors and what are their dimensions? (Front lower: 5.25"/5.5" basket/3.125" depth; front upper: 3.5"/3 5/8" basket/2.25" depth; rear: 6x9" according to https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=93860, diagram here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...75&hg=65&fg=20)
- How do the new speakers, the amp and the headunit get wired together? I've heard "Get a harness," I've heard "Get cross overs," I've heard "Don't get cross overs," and I've heard "You have to remove the dash and cut the wires out to get your new speakers connected."
- How do I mount the amp?

I'm sorry for needing so much handholding, but I'd really like the chance to do this myself and any help that can be given is appreciated.

 

I mean this in a nice way even if it sounds cold. The fact that you have to ask these particular questions after reading this thread means that adding an amp is probably above your skill level. The MINI has a complicated wiring system that can easily be messed up costing literally thousands of dollars to repair. Seriously, get the pros to install the amp. You can replace the speakers yourself. I've installed many complicated systems in the past and I still chose to let the pros do the amp part of my install in my MINI.

Amps can be done at home but the risk isn't worth it.

 

I appreciate this advice and will consider it carefully. The honesty isn't cold, it's important to hear. Though I've read this thread carefully the majority of the posts assume a certain level of knowledge and don't illustrate the process well. What's holding me back from proceeding is the lack of a simple wiring diagram or explanation. For example, if the attached image shows what the stock stereo/speaker system looks like now, I'd kill for a picture like that that shows how to wire in an amp and any other necessary parts. This is the closest I've come: http://www.installer.com/photos/sven.jpg.

As near as I can figure, I would need to:

- Remove the dash and speedometer to get at the head unit;
- Cut the speaker lines behind the head unit and attach Stinger line level converters;
- Run RCA cables from the Stinger into the amplifier;
- Connect the speakers to the amplifier;
- Press play.

Is that accurate?

 

That is actually very accurate. A couple simple steps missing (power/ground/remote turn on for amp) but everything else is spot on. The problem comes in knowing which wires to cut/splice and - tearing apart your dashboard.

There are wiring diagrams in this thread but they're not super simple for sure (even though someone did translate the german for us).

 

www.newministuff.com offers wiring looms that don't require cutting or splicing. I think that's the way to go - plug and play and no worries about cutting the wrong leads.

 

Thanks for the answers. I checked out the loom but it'll cost $120 after VAT and shipping to get it to the US and it feels like it's too much money for it. If I use LOCs instead will I have to solder them to the original wires, or do they crimp in place? Will four LOCs fit comfortably behind the head unit? Do they need to be grounded? And is there any reason I can't put the LOCs in the doors immediately next to the speakers instead of cutting the wires behind the head unit? (because that would save me from opening the dash)

After reviewing the replies and my notes I think that the setup will look like this (god forgive me for drawing it on paper and taking a picture of it, but we don't have a color scanner here):



If that's an accurate picture of how it will look please let me know. If it is then I need to figure out how to route the cables around the car. How do you guys do it? Do you just run them underneath the floor mats, or do you cut open the carpet and run it there? I looked but I haven't seen any good pictures for how to run all the actual wiring, or how long the wires need to be.

 

I'm not sure where you found those prices. The most expensive loom that has RCAs for front and back is 35 pounds. You don't pay VAT because you don't live in the UK. http://www.newministuff.com/new/shop...uctshow&id=469

 

That's the one exactly. With VAT (they list it there even though I'm shipping to the US, so I imagine I have to pay it anyway) and shipping it's £ 58.75, which is $119.13 US dollars. Without VAT it's still $100.

 

You wouldn't pay VAT but you're right. Its crazy that postage is $30 but european postage is always incredibly high. Even shipping from the UK to France is triple or more than US to UK. Bummer.

 

I think the price is worth it. Otherwise you'll have to figure out which wires go where.