I just got back from visiting 2 car audio places and it seems like $1500 is the amount I am looking at to have the 4 speaker up frount replaced, replace the 6x9's and a amp and small sub to the rear.

Is $1500 about the correct amount for quality products and install?

 

I know people who have spent $3,000 doing that, but it included Dynamat and a sub.

 

Ok sounds good....$1500 is about my limit for this project. I want good sound but it does not have to be ear bleeding....I get that when I play my drums.

 

For those with the upgraded HiFi system with the amplifier in the rear, previous posts recommend using Pin 10 in the amplifier connector as a remote turn-on for any aftermarket amplifiers.

I didn't see it posted, but Pin 10 is the solid BLACK wire in the amp connector.

This remote turn-on connection has some unique characteristics that I identified that may be helpful to others who want to install aftermarket amp(s):

• Although this remote turn-on (Pin 10) may be ultimately connected to a 30g fuse (the ones that stay on for 30/60 minutes after the car is turned off), it does not follow the standard 30g "rules."

• Rather, if the radio is off, Pin 10 stays hot (powered) for about 90 seconds after the last "car activity" such as the last door closing.
• It does not stay on for the 30/60 minutes as the 30g circuits do, so you don't have to worry about it draining your battery.
• If you have the Convenience Access option and close up the car with the radio still playing, when you lock the doors with the remote, in addition to turning off the radio, it will power off Pin 10 within about 90 seconds.
• If you open a door, or cause a "car activity", after the remote turn-on has timed out (and turned off an amp), it will re-power itself, regardless of whether the radio is on or not. It will then turn itself off after 90 seconds or so if nothing else occurs.

All in all, it works very well as a remote turn-on for aftermarket amps. (I'll post details of my install in a separate post).

Cheers,
Tom

 

Phurbahl,
It sounds as if the 6x9s are easier to replace in the clubman. Would it be worth replacing JUST those? (my HiFi system just seems to lack 'oomph'). Which model speakers do you have (and rough cost).

Where did you mount that Boss600 (and is that the secret to the oomph and how hard is it to add that?)

 

Today I replaced my front lower speakers with Infinity 6022i's. I disconnected the uppers for now; maybe at some point that position will get 3022cf's or similar (I'm a bit wary of having multiple tweeters up front though - thoughts?). I am using the OEM non-HiFi amp and plan to continue to do so - the Infinity Reference are very efficient and go plenty loud for my taste. The new speakers sound great. The install went smoothly, thanks to the information in this thread, and it took me a little over two hours all told. (FWIW, I have plenty of electronics engineering experience and am reasonably mechanically apt, but I hadn't previously done any work on my Mini's interior.)

Installation notes:

• I went with the standard 6022i rather than the shallow mount 6022si. They were available for $25 less than the si's and seemed likely to provide, if anything, slightly better sound. The measurements and this post seemed to suggest they would fit, even though the Crutchfield fitment guide indicated otherwise. They ended up fitting just fine (and yes, I did try rolling down the windows ).
  
  
• I used Infinity's metal mounting plate. Unfortunately neither it nor the plastic one was suitably sized to drill holes in to match the Mini mounting pattern. Not wanting to drill the car, I discovered it was possible to use the OEM screws to "clamp" the edges of the Infinity bracket. The screwheads are large enough that this seems quite secure. I'll see how it goes and will maybe end up either drilling the car or making custom adapter plates at some point in the future.
  
  
• I soldered a length of speaker wire onto the speakers and poked it out through an incision in the nearby rubber grommet, as several of you suggested. I didn't want to cut the OEM connectors off the wiring harness, so I used some of the insulation-displacement style splice connectors. I realize this is less desirable than soldering, but I have prior experience using the connectors in high-vibration environments (robotics and marine) and I expect they will be fine.
  
  
• As disconcerting as it was to be hooking up the brown-striped wire (on the right hand side) to the speaker's "+" terminal, this does indeed appear to be the correct polarity. I can't hear any weird bass cancellation effects, anyway.
  
  
• I didn't have any trouble with the door lock pushrod. It is not as fragile as some of the posts in this thread led me to worry it might be.
  
  
• Alas, though I tried, I was not able to keep the mirror switch intact during removal. Fortunately it was pretty straightforward to reassemble.
  
  
• Remember to reconnect the lamp in the bottom door edge when you reinstall the panel!
  
  
• In order to apply enough force to certain of the door panel clips to get them to fasten after reinstalling the panel, it helps to close the door.
  
  
• I now have my fader set to +2 forward and the OEM rears don't sound too awful. I really don't want to replace them just yet - we'll see though.
  
  
• I refrained from doing the X9331 swap since I want the bass routed to the upgraded speakers.

 

I would just like to say thank you to everyone that has posted information in this thread!!

 

where did you tap your signal for your sub. any signal coming fron the head unit

 

Gentlemen,

I'm trying to hide a Zapco DC360.4 in my R56 somewhere. It's too wide to simply put under the front seats and I fear it may be too long to fit in the space where the existing hi-fi amp is currently placed. The amp is 19.4"L x7.12"W x 2.35"H Suggestions?

Thanks,
Joel

 

You may have room under the rear seat-bench ... maybe your amp is slim enough to go there. It takes about two minutes to pop the rear seat-backs out, then the bench comes right out. I recall a fair bit of dead-space under there when I had them out to replace the 6x9s --

 

I have a feeling there is less space there than you think and even if there was - there is NO airflow to cool the amp.

 

why not build a false floor like everyone else with large amps?

 

If I need to I can build the false floor, but I would prefer to keep as much open space as possible as the R56 is somewhat limited in this department. Do we know how much room there is where the hi-fi amp currently resides?

-J-

 

not much - the hifi amp is in the way.

do not remove the hifi amp either.

 

hmmm,... I was planning on replacing the hifi amp with the Zapco one. Why shouldn't I do this?

-J-

 

The HIFI amp is connected to the onboard computer. If the dealer needs to upgrade the software, or re-install it, not having the amp could cause problems. One person here claimed that the dealer refused to fix a problem with his DSC because the amp was missing. I can't verify that, but dealers seem to have enough trouble with software upgrades when all the pieces are there. Best to leave the amp in place.

 

So,... would it be better to just replace the speakers and use the hifi amp OR add a aftermarket amp. If the latter, how is that done, bypassing the hifi amp that is.

-J-

 

I imagine this would be a matter of debate, and depend on what exactly you mean by "better."

You could tap into the X9331 connector under the dash. Typically, this is done by pulling out some of the pins going into the X9331 from the head unit, and soldering wires to the pins and putting them back in the X9331. That way the HIFI amp is still connected, and you have signal for your after-market amp.

I connected a powered sub this way, and am considering adding an amp just for the rear speakers. In my setup, they are the most important speakers, and I'd like to bypass the filtering in the HIFI amp.

 

Okay so I've been digging and digging trying to figure this all out. I've got the HiFi system now but want to upgrade everything, I want to use the existing wiring and if possible use the same amp that's in the back left of the boot. Unless of course I can find something better that'll be a quick and directly swap. Granted the above posts make it seem like it's better to just keep the stock HiFi amp for OEM reasons. It seems to be good enough anyway...

At any rate, I get a pretty killer discount on Infinity and JBL speakers. So I'm inclined to go with them, for example 692.9I's are about $85/pair, and 62.9I's are about $61/pair. I'm trying to figure out what's the absolute best options to go with from the current line up.

From what I can tell, in the lower doors the Kappa 62.9i would work as would the REF6032CF. In the upper door the REF4032CF would work or the Kappa 42.9i would work. Or, as another option the Kappa 60.9CS in the lower door with the tweeter in the A-pillar. Combined with the 42.9i? Or am I wrong and need the 32.9CF or 3032CF in the upper?

Does this sound right for the fronts?

In the rear I'm guessing the Kappa 692.9I or the REF9632CF would do?

I'm not too bothered by the high ends in the car, it's mainly the crappy muddled bass and mid range.

How are JBL's car speakers compared to Infinity? It's the same company now, would everyone here still go for Infinity?

Lastly, I'm curious if there's any hidden service options or EQ settings that can be found behind the stock HiFi headend.

 

You don't want a coax speaker in the lower door location. The 6.5" speaker seems to only get bass. Use component speakers and put the tweeter in the A pillar.

I have Kappas and don't like the high end. Can you get me a good deal on JL's?

 

LOL, possibly, what JL setup would you get?

So if I stuck with the Infinity speakers what would be the mix?

 

I don't know. Don't know anything about JL's other than a lot of car audio shops seem to use them. I'm looking for something warmer than the Kappas, but as good or better quality.

The models have changed a little since I got mine. I used:
Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6"x9" 3-way car speakers in the rear
Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6-1/2" component speaker system in the lower door location
Infinity Kappa 42.7i 4" 2-way car speakers in the upper doorr location

I think the ".7" is now ".9".

 

Well just bought the 693.9i, 60.9cs, and 42.9i's. Not bad for the price really... I'm curious though, where'd you put the crossover for the 6.5" component system? I'm guessing you'd just put it at the back near the OEM amp right?

UPDATED: Nevermind, found this thread about the crossover, guess I'll just leave it out for all of them .

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hinking-2.html

UPDATE AGAIN: So was trying to think about the tweeter mount, saw toolazyforalogin's gallery: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hp/photo/83662... is this only way to properly mount the 10.9t tweeter? What's involved here?

Also, any opinions on the Infinity BassLink thing? http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/p...=US&Region=USA

Only ask because I can get it for cheap. Is there a way to get that installed by just running some very simple wiring from the existing HiFi amp? I've read conflicting info regarding these as well as the Boss setup after doing a search.

 

Hi Corey,
I'm going to be doing the same when I get back from vacation... How about posting some pictures (or even a YouTube video ... I'm especially curious about
a) door panel removal
b) the wiring
let us know how it goes!

 

Back in post 145 I said, "The A-pillars were tough getting the tweeters to fit - I cut the OEM tweeter holder (a circle) in half and stretched the circle around the new Infinity tweeter (much bigger) - the stretched semicircle I was left with held the new tweeter pretty well but then I added a wire tie to help hold it in there - at first I glued it but then on the second one I found this method to work much better"

If you find a better method please let me know for future reference but like I said it is very secure