Well, I don't really have anything new to add, just another success story thanks to this thread. I'm extremely pleased with my new Infinitys and am now looking into a USS8. Thanks again NAM!

 

Wow, what a great resource this place is..

I just read through almost all of this thread (started a few days ago, did bits at a time) I am hoping somebody with the same setup as mine (factory 6 speaker, no hi-fi) can maybe give me a Readers Digest version of what I am up against. I’ll start with what I think I need to do (from reading this thread) and If I make any mistakes or wrong assumptions, please set me straight. I plan on upgrading all six speakers, so I hope to get this right the first time. All the equipment listed I bought within the past two years for use in another vehicle, which I sold.

Here’s my plan. I have some really good Polk 6 x 9’s, I plan on replacing the factory 6 x 9’s with those. I plan on powering these with a Profile AP 600 (100 x 2) amp.

I plan on installing additional Polk (upper door area) and Infinity (Lower door area) speakers in the doors. These will run off the factory stereo.

Ideally another amp for the door speakers would be great, but I hope to use the fader to achieve some F-R balance. It may be a better idea to use the amp to power the fronts, but I’m not leaning that way, but I can probably be convinced to switch by some expert advice.

So, a good mounting position for the Amp is in the rear, behind the side panels, correct? My amp has a speaker level hi to lo converter, (in addition to line level) so I can use the factory rear speaker wires (some lengthening will probably be required) Which leaves me needing a remote turn on lead for the amp. I thought I read somewhere in this thread that there is one in the cars wire bundles, one accessible in the rear of the car area? Is that correct?

So, do I have a somewhat thought out plan? Any major problems/omissions? It seemed like a good majority of the posts in here dealt with the 10 speaker setup, so weeding out the information for the base setup was somewhat of an issue, and I may have keyed in on something that wasn’t applicable to my specific setup. So if I did and have something wrong please let me know.

 

After reading through this thread and a few others I've ordered some Focals and will be starting the install process this weekend.

For those wanting to have extra/back-up pop/door clips here are the part numbers


Pop Clip/Door Clips Part Numbers:I wanted to note that these part numbers are for a Clubman, but I would assume they would be the same for a R56 as well.

Wish me luck

If the speaker replacement goes well, I might look into adding a Boss 8" sub to the Trunk Tool Tray. I just ordered the Clubman tool tray since I'm carrying a spare tire in my S. I'll have to see if there is enough clearence to get the Boss bass system in there.

 

I've got an 09 MCS with the HiFi system and am thinking of replacing the front set of speakers and tweeters for now. I was hoping to grab some Bostons (open to others, just know that I love my Boston VR3's) and do it myself but I'm a little confused since there seems to be mixed info here for non-HiFi and HiFi systems. Ideally I'd like to just replace the speakers and such without modding anything else.

From what I gather I should try and find 4 ohm speakers and get stuff without built in crossovers? What are the exact sizes I'm looking for for everything? Are there tweeters that fit perfectly?

 

HiFi you can do 2 ohm speakers.

Both 4" and 6.5" should work on the door. The tweeters are 1" and needed a little bit of manipulation since mine were 1.5"....I cut the OEM mounting bracket and used a small wire tie as well. I think there's a pic of the back of the A-pillar (tweeter) in my gallery.

 

The first post of this thread tells you every thing you need to know about sizes for the door speakers. The tweeters are 1" as toolazyforalogin said.

There is also a lot of other good info in this thread about makes and models.

Search is your friend.

 

Hello,

First post here:

I read up 22 pages of this thread and some say you can run Infinity 2 Ohm coaxials for both the lower door 6.5" and the upper door 4" speaker locations with no issues with non-HIFI stereo. I also read that the stock non-HIFI speakers are rated at 4 Ohms and it is not advisable to to run both pair of 2 Ohms coaxial speakers. Is it safe to run the Infinity 6022i and 3022i speakers in non-HIFI stereo?

 

Are you sure they weren't talking about the HIFI when they said it is OK to use 2 ohm speakers? I'm not an expert on this, but from what I've read, using 2 ohm on a 4 ohm system can overheat the amp.

For 2 ohms to be OK for the standard system it would have to mean that MINI was using an amp that could handle 2 ohm speakers. It would seem odd for them to use 4 ohm speakers for the standard when they install 2 ohm speakers for the HIFI.

If I were you, I'd stick with 4 ohm speakers.

 

The Infinity's you list a perfectly safe to use with the non-HiFi. Here is a quote direct from the Infinity Reference website :

True Four Ohms— All Reference speakers feature two ohm voice coils. Original factory-installed speaker wiring in many cars is 18-22 gauge. This wire, and heating in the voice coil when power is applied, increase the impedance “seen” by the amplifier or head unit. The impedance of Reference Speakers has been adjusted to compensate for this increase and can be safely driven by any head unit

 

I am refering to the non-HIFI systems and Infinity 2 Ohms coaxial speakers for the front door speaker locations.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...6-post457.html

I think there was another post refering to the same set of speakers.

After researching more, I believe Infinity Reference 2 Ohms speakers makes the exceptance for the 4 Ohms head units and amps.

Referred from:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1083032...ml?tp=96&avf=N

"True Four Ohm Impedance technology: speaker's 2.7-ohm impedance combines with speaker wire resistance for true 4-ohm load"

 

Thanks Euells for your knowledge, I read all of your posts from this thread (22 pages) and it did answer my question. I believe future non-HIFI frugal owners will follow your lead and convert to the Infinity coaxials.

My next question is the front 2 channels delivers in full range and the rear channel is cut off at 100 HZ with less wattage, and if I replace the front door speakers (3.5" and 6.5") with aftermarket speakers and leave the rear OEM (6x9) speakers alone, then I should not bother the doing the X99931 swap? The aftermarket speakers 6.5" would benefit more than the rear stock 6X9s in reproducing the low frequencies. Is that right?

 

This is the exact plan I followed, but all it did was point out how bad the originals in the rears sound. I then decided to fade everything to the front. It helped, but I still wasn't happy. I predict you won't be pleased either, and within a week or two - you'll be replacing the rears.

However - to answer your question - I would definitely NOT do the swap until you have replaced the rears.

 

That was my orginal plan but it is my wife's car and it is less than a month old so I am sneaking around her.

 

Believe me - I know how you feel. I replaced the rears when mine was 3 months old. I kept coming up with valid reasons not to do so, but then a few NAM members convinced me that although it was a lot of work, you only have to do it once.

 

I guess that would be stage 2 after I sell her on the front replacements. I been looking around and the 3.5" Infinity Kappas is only a few dollars more than the 3.5" Infinity References. Would you suggest purchasing Kappas for the front upper door locations?
Kappas:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=15370
References:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=21899

 

don't buy from onlinecarstereo - they are a scam.

I love my kappas in both my upper and lower spots

I have HiFi.

 

Don't know about onlinecarstereo being a scam. I've made about 10-12 orders with them and never had a problem. Going back to 3 weeks ago and received the order with no problems.

 

Ok if they came through for you cool

Euells and I both had issues with them.

 

Thanks everyone for your inputs.

 

This is a great thread...some confusing info though. I just got a 09 Cooper S with the stock stereo and will be taking it to a hi end car audio place in a week for a upgrade to the speakers. I am still trying to figure out if there is a way to have a sub with out a huge sub box in the back.

I will post info later on what I end up doing. Thanks in advance for any info and tips!
Mike

 

Upgrade the speakers, front and back, and do the swap (see references to X9331 connector in the Speaker Swap thread so you don't have to rip apart the interior of the car).

Drive around with this setup for a while before deciding if you want to go the next step and add a sub.

While some might sneer at it because of its small size, the Boss Audio Bass600 integrated sub is a great fit for the Mini (also sold under some other names). It works -- enough bass and enough power for the Mini.

Have fun!

 

Thanks...I wonder if I could get 2 of those Boss intergrated subs and mount 1 under the driver and 1 under the passanger seat????

 

Unfortunately FWIR no room.

 

If the spacing is the same as in the 2008, won't fit.

Before I got my bass600, I downloaded the manual and made a cardboard mockup of the thing (rounding out to the nearest 1/4 inch). Used that to see where it would fit.

Under the seats, nope, and in the "secret" compartment under the passenger seat (if you don't have sat radio) nope again.

As shown in my gallery, mine is in the boot, powered off the aux power wiring.

 

Actually you have several other options:

1. Install a sub in the rear with a shallow box. See thbugman for example (there are others with such installs here).
2. Use two 6x9" sub drivers instead of the original 6x9" but you will have to use a little amp there.
See: Tang Band 6x9 sub 4ohm
Tang Band 6x9 sub 8 ohm
3. Use shallow subwoofer such as JL audio's and Pioneer's.