Hey audiophiles,

i want a better sound system in my 2015 F55. I have the standard stock system currently. So, I went to Best Buy to inquire about compatible aftermarket head units, because they offer free installation. I was told that there were none, and I would have to consult the auto dealer first, for needed parts to alter the in dash trim. “What?!” That didn’t sound right! Has anyone else run into this problem? I know some of you have installed new head units, yourselves, so why is a “Pro” telling me they can’t help me. I should add that I am pretty sure doing it myself is a bit beyond my capabilities, though I am not ruling it out entirely. I am a Grandma, for goodness sake....😊

Kat

 

1. You can search here or EBAY for used MINI h/u's that have the features you are looking for. It isn't an easy process to install so be prepared for headaches and relying on the seller to help you through the process. I passed on this opportunity.

2. You can buy a Chinese made Android retrofit h/u that sounds like a great deal loaded with features. Some of the features are not going to work most likely and good luck getting the vendor to fix them or give you your money back. A few threads, one recently active detail the woes involved.

3. The pro ain't lying. The cars Canbus system ties into the h/u and reports the oil level, TPMS and some other functions. If you don't mind losing all that then you can buy a Chinese unit or look for one of the several fascia kits that allow you to mount a name brand h/u and also purchase the interface to allow steering wheel control of the unit. I contacted at least 10 "pros", none of whom thought they couldn't do it until they researched it a bit and came up empty.

4. I'm toughing it out on the h/u swap and will just wait for the next car.

You can look here https://www.sonicelectronix.com or search around for several other brands of the fascia.

I changed out all my speakers, added amps, subwoofer and a Dayton DSP with a bluetooth dongle. I play all my music from my phone and it sounds great, it is just a pain if you like to constantly change songs. If you play albums or playlists you are fine, except you lose the easy volume control and the speed sensitive volume adjustments.

 

I may have to tough it out, til the next car, too. Of course, I just got this one. Perhaps new 3 way speakers in the front doors, and an amp in the boot will make a big improvement. Just the wiring kit for the amp is $120.00. Of course, they charge for speaker installation, too. Just doing those two things will cost about $500.00, with installation. My boyfriend thinks I am crazy for not being satisfied with the current system, but I love my classic rock.......LOUD! Wait ‘til he sees all the Black Jack accessories I bought for “Nigel”.... 😉

 

Don't know about prices in the US but $120,- for an amp wiring kit sounds like a bit too much, even here in Germany. I would recommend buying wires and connectors seperately and certainly not from audio stores (whether home or car).

Do the F series stock radios have a low level output?

PS.: You may want to have your post moved over to the 3. Generation forum in case things get more specific.

 

I don’t know what low level output means. If I had to guess, I would say the stock radio is the same across all the models.

Kat

 

"Low level" is the non-amplified signal, not capable to drive speakers. "High level" output is the amplified signal, such as what comes out of an amplifier or a radio that incorporates an amplifying stage (most car radios). The R56 radio does not have low level output, meaning that if an amplifier is to be added, either:
- a high level to low level adapter must be used between the source and the amplifier or
- the amplifier be able to receive a high level signal as source.

Usually, low level signals are input/output via cinch connectors and require special, preferably shielded cables. Amp wiring kits usually come with such a cable (of varying quality). If one has the choice, low level signal via a high quality, well shielded cable is the (more expenisve) way to go.

 

There are a lot of amps accepting either low or high level signals. That amp hook up kit is crazy priced, here is the one I used - $16.66 .

 

Sounded crazy to me, too. So, today, I went to a real car audio place and explained that I wanted to improve my stereo sound. His suggestion was to start by adding a subwoofer and an amplifier. He is also installing something that will reverse what the car companies do to lessen the sound quality in stock systems. Whatever that part is, it costs $125.00 dollars, itself. If I am not satisfied with the sound after he does these things, I can then change out the speakers, and, as a last resort, the head unit, which I have discovered is an Alpine head unit. This will be very pricey, around $1,300.00. About $600.00 of that is labor. He was confident that adding the subwoofer and amplifier will make a big difference. I made an appointment for next week.

Kat

 

Again, I do not know what the prices are like in the US, but this time $125 sounds a bit too low for properly adding dynamat at a car audio shop. And it is certainly too low a figure for a decent DSP unit, capable of changing the acoustics of a sound system (not that it would make much sense to add a DSP without replacing the stock speakers). Also, proposing to add an amplifier and a subwoofer prior to having the stock speakers replaced also makes me mindful.

If I were you, I would read more about improving the sound of a 3rd generation Mini and certainly discuss the shop's proposal with other F series owners before committing to anything. There is plenty of information (not just to start with) right here on this forum:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...and-audio-431/

 

Hi, George

I trust the guy. He has won numerous awards for his work. He enters sound system competitions and his office is full of 1st place trophies. I just checked the itemized quote he gave me, and I don’t see the DSP on there, so I hope the bill won’t increase. I do appreciate you looking out for me. Looks like the subwoofer (encased in a big box), and amp are each $250.00. He is putting a metal grill around the cone to protect it. The rest of the items are wiring, some fuse, etc. Labor is $425.00. I will report back next Thursday, and tell you how it sounds. I will eventually upgrade the speakers, too. It is just so expensive to do it all at once. Best Buy charges $60.00 a pair to install speakers, so, at least, I kind of know what to expect, moneywise, when I get to that phase. I am going to keep the stock head unit, as I want all of the included car info electronics to work, as they should. From the reading I have done here, about guys who install Chinese aftermarket head units, looks like it’s a crap shoot, as to whether or not they get all of those things to work with their new units. Thanks, again, for your concern.

Kat

 

Adding an amp and subwoofer is definitely the best way to upgrade a system. The shop you went to sounds like they know what they are talking about. Installing in stages is a great way to understand what is lacking in a sound system. Most people are usually pretty happy just filling in the low end with a subwoofer and keeping the stock speakers and turning down the bass **** on them.

If you like your music loud and you think you'll end up wanting more volume then I would ask the shop about installing a 4 or 5 channel amp instead of the mono amp just for the sub. Replacing stock speakers with aftermarket and using the stock headunit power will not get you enough volume at driving speeds if you want an upgrade. This way all you would have to do is get the speakers and run speaker wire to the amp.

 

We talked about that and, apparently, that would, at a minimum, double the price of the amp. So, this is OK for now. Since I have a 2015 Justa, car noise isn’t too bad. We also talked about soundproofing, which I will have him do, if, and when I change out the stock speakers. If I do go that route, I will get a second amp. I noticed they don’t take up much space, and I think he said it will be installed under the seat.

Kat

 

Quick question: Will I need a Bluetooth dongle? That is not in the printed plan he gave me. My car is already equipped with Bluetooth.

Kat

 

Bluetooth dongle in my car is AptX, so I get higher resolution than the built in MINI set up. For the most part the only MINI parts in my music playing are the OEM wires connecting the speakers. Otherwise everything is bypassed. If you are going to plug it into the aux in of the car, then you might not hear a big difference. I'd try an Amazon dongle and return it if it doesn't wow you.

 

btw - can you show us a pic of the printed plan? You can cover up the identifying stuff so nobody scams your name/address. I'd be curious to see it and maybe I or someone else has experience with any of the equipment used.

 

Here you go. As for the Bluetooth dongle, I will ask him about it, when I bring the car in Tuesday.


DEALER INFORMATION
install amp+sub+loc+
AUTOMOBILE DESCRIPTION
Make: MINI Model: COOPER Year: 2015
JOB DESCRIPTION
STK: PO

APPOINTMENT INFORMATION
QTY. MODEL MAKE DESCRIPTION SERIAL NO. PRICE SUBTOTAL
1 LJ1022 AUDIO XPERTS 400WATT 10" 2 OHM DVC LJ1022 $149.99 $149.99
1 AN10G ATREND 10" GRILL AN10G $10.00 $10.00
1 AN10TKV ATREND 10" PORTED TRUCK SUB BOX AN10TKV $99.99 $99.99
1 ST500XMII ZAPCO 500X1 @ 1 OHM ST500XMII $249.99 $249.99
1 I-AMPLIFIER2 LABOR COMPLEX AMP INSTALLATION I-AMPLIFIER2 $255.00 $255.00
1 I-OEM LABOR INTEGRATION TO FACTORY RADIO / I-OEM INTEGRATION $170.00 $170.00
17 SHW14B-2 STINGER 4GA CABLE BLUE PER FT SHW14B-2 $4.00 $68.00
3 SHW14C-2 STINGER 4GA CABLE CLEAR PER FT SHW14C-2 $4.00 $12.00
1 SPD5801 STINGER 4/8GA MIDI FUSE HOLDER SPD5801 $24.00 $24.00
1 MIDI100B SOUNDQUEST 100 AMP MIDI FUSE MIDI100B $3.99 $3.99
1 XI226 STINGER XI 6FT 2CH DBL SHIELDED CABLE XI226 $49.99 $49.99
1 SHOP OTHER GENERAL INSTALL SUPPLIES SHOP SUPPLIES $42.50 $42.50
1 LINKQ WAVETECH 2CH LOC W/REMOTE/PARA EQ LINKQ $124.95 $124.95
LABOR/SUBLET DESCRIPTION
Materials: Labor: Sublet: Other: Misc: SubTotal: Sales Tax: Invoice
$792.90 $425.00 $0.00 $42.50
$0.00 1260.40 $81.69
$1342.09


All materials have a manufacturer warranty and installation is guaranteed for one year. Installation kits, filters, wiring harnesses are additional charges if needed. Engine noise removal may be necessary after component install. Speaker repairs carry 90 day warranty, radio repairs 1 year warranty
Visit our website: www.audio-xperts.com>


Kat

 

Yikes. That is way overpriced. Your $125 wiring kit you complained about is now about $100 on that list. $1300 ?

You could buy a high end JL Audio powered sub box and have an amateur installer hook it up and still have about 650 in change. Or you could buy a lower end powered sub and have a lot of cash left over.

STOP and THINK on this one.

 

My installer built a sub box for me $50.
Installed my $120 10" sub Dayton
Installed my $135 Rockford Mono Sub AMP
Charged me less than $200 for the install, which included installing a DSP and tuning it.

This is a small MINI, not a $100,000 luxury car install.

 

I agree. It is a lot of money, but I committed to it. I even gave a deposit. Labor seems high, as does the box for the sub. Everything is pricey in CA.. I do trust the guy, though. I am just glad I can afford it. I will just sell a couple of my watches. I am an avid collector.

 

I'm certainly no expert so I hope someone more knowledgeable than me can provide simple explanations to the following:

1. Why would someone pick a low-level input only amplifier to pair it with a line-in converter, when there are so many high-level input compatible amplifiers?
2. Why would someone pick a line-in converter with variable bass boost for $ 125 only to combine it with an amp which allows variable frequency control and bass boost (and by the way is meant to drive a subwoofer, not full range speakers)?
3. What would someone charge USD 170 for " Labor integration to factory radio" for in such a setup (and in addition to the $ 255 for labor of a "complex amp installation")?

May I aks why you trust this place? Hopefully not just because they display prizes on shelves in their shop.

Edit: I just checked the amplifier and it even comes with a dash mount variable gain control (which the chosen line-in converter also does).

 

Not necessarily, there are many factors to be considered: financial factors, acoustics and personal preference.

But why start with a very costly step which has neither the best "cost/efficiency ratio" and comes with major drawbacks like taking up boot space, requiring extensive installation work and not being expandable (due to the single channel amp)?

 

It's only $425 for labor, not that bad, 5 hours of work maybe. They do mark up the equipment to make up for it though. It's not the best equipment, but typical for a shop selling to someone that doesn't know much about car audio. I think you can do better than that box and probably the subwoofer. That box will almost take up the entire cargo area. I have this unit in my rear and it does the job for now.

 

Anyone is free to charge whatever they want (within limits in most countries at least), just as customers are free to go elsewhere.

That in itself however does not justify the selection of components in this case. Indeed, the shop could easily have sucked out the same amount of money from KatGirl, making more profit with less installation work with an equally good or mediocre end result (that remains for KatGirl to decide when she listens to the system).

Sorry for the harsh words, but "typical" does not make things right.

 

I'd say adding a subwoofer is the most economical way to improve a stock system. All need is a woofer signal and power to the amplifier. Yes it takes up cargo space, but you will be disappointed if you just replace the speakers with aftermarket. A subwoofer allows you to relieve your other speakers from bass duty since they are not made to play the lower frequencies.

Adding an amp and replacing speakers is much more work in my opinion. Finding a full range signal, running speaker wire to both doors, finding a place for the crossover, taking apart the door card, and mounting the speakers is in addition to running power to an amplifier. You will also end up with a system that will most likely be shrilly.

It is a costly step, but let's face it, most people love to feel bass. Bass doesn't have to rattle your windows, but a nice little thump is all you need. It's really all that is lacking in a factory system. She did say that she likes classic rock, so a subwoofer won't really do too much for that kind of music.

 

I would question whether "more bass and nothing else" is necessarily what most people want, especially in the case of classic rock listeners. And certainly not to the extend that a 10" subwoofer in a separate box, driven by a 500W amp is required. Nor is one forced to choose speakers which are shrill.

As you said, installing an amp (whether for full range speakers or for a subwoofer) is a lot of work and costly. Much easier and more cost effective is replacing the stock speakers. No wring required, no amp, no power wires, much cheaper overall. Speakers come in all sizes and of varying quality. And if volume or bass output is not enough, one can add an amp to drive the full range speakers (this also increases bass output within limits).

I'm still convinced that there would have been better ways for KatGirl to spend this amount of money and get much more in return. And some of these alternatives would not lessen the amount of profit the shop makes out of her.