I'm assuming you are asking about low-level, not line level. Line level is a standard with a fixed nominal level of -10dBV (for consumer....pro is higher), and is used for signal levels between pieces of equipment. The nominal signal level is not varied - i.e. this is generally upstream of any volume pots, and is only designed for high impedance loads.

Low level is a bit more arbitrary, but generally refers to signals up to about 4V designed to send a varied level signal to an amplifier. In a home stereo system, line level would be the signal between your CD player and your pre-amp/processor, low level would be the signal between the pre-amp/processor and amplifier, and high level would be the signal from your amplifier to your speakers. In an iPhone (4S or older), the headphone jack is (kindof) low level, but the output from the 30-pin connector on the bottom is (roughly) line level.

 

Yeah, I answered too quick.

Line level at -10 is .707v
Line level at 0 is 1v
Pro line level at +4 EOL is 1.223v

The 4V coming out of the IA loom works well, a little hot for my taste, but well.

 

I doubt anyone reading this cares, but just in case...a bit of clarification...consumer line level is 0.316V, rather than 0.707V. There is no 1V line level - that's the reference voltage for dBV (i.e. 0dBV = 1V), and consumer line level is -10dBV. Pro line level is 1.228V, which is +4 dBu - a different scale - which is referenced to 0.7746V.

It's confusing, I know, and I suspect pretty much worthless to this discussion.

Well, it's only 4V if you max the headunit volume, something you don't really want to do anyway. It is purposely set to this level - it plays nicely with virtually all aftermarket amps, and maximizes SNR. The level is also helpful for folks who may be using long and/or multiple lengths of fine gauge interconnect wiring with relatively high DCR, and for folks using amps with single-ended inputs since they will lose half the balanced signal, significantly reducing the output. The only time you'd have a problem would be if you have an odd/older/cheaper amp that doesn't like a signal level that high, potentially clipping the input stage. If so, minimize the sensitivity (often incorrectly referred to as "gain") on the amp, and if that isn't enough just don't turn the volume on the HU up high enough to clip the amp input stage - more input voltage won't get you more output voltage once you've achieved max output anyway.

 

Thanks to both of you, that is what I needed to know.

I've already got the A pillars and Focal tweeters, but thanks for the heads up there too!

Its been a hell of a job. Getting the 14 awg wire fed through the factory rubber "tunnel" that feeds from the car into the front door was flaming hell. But, I got it done. It is all buttoned up. I had to use a dremel and carve 2 channels into the OEM wire harness plastic to set the wires in so I could get the outer cover to snap back in place.

My solution for the backup sounds......I'm going to set the head unit to be 100% front speaker (since the Integral wiring harness pulls all audio from front sources anyway) and that will feed all my music audio. Then, I am keeping the small mid range 3 1/2" speaker in the door and feeding it the REAR audio (by switching pins in the X9331 connector out), and the rear audio will ONLY be the chimes from the backup sensor.

My wife spent the day making the custom mounts for the Focal tweeters to fit in the OEM A pillars. The FOcals were too small.

 

Sorry if this question has been asked/answered already but, will this harness work on the R53 HK system?

 

No, this is for 2nd gen MINIs only.

 

Well that sucks! Any support for the 1st gen Mini audio system besides the sub add on?

 

I desperately want to avoid running new speaker wire through the doors. Can anyone comment on how to use the existing speaker wire? I am replacing the door speakers with JL C5-650 components and need to integrate a crossover.

As I understand it I need to splice the speaker wire from my amp into the x9331, but what then? I've been using the SoundStage instructions as a guide and it seems I'm supposed to tap into the midrange's speaker wire and connect that to the input on my crossover. Is that correct? Then do I just run new wire from the crossover to the speakers?

Will I lose any wattage going this route rather than biting the bullet and running thicker wire?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Spent all day getting my amps wired and my Mini's interior is still completely gutted at the moment.

 

Only the subwoofer system is available for 1st gen MINIs.

 

If you have the 6 speaker system you can use our T-harness. If you have the HiFi/HK you would have to cut wires at the factory amp. And even so, this only gets you two sets of wires for 3 speakers, so for a 3-way system you'd have to place your crossover in the car rather than the door. Your best bet (see below for why) is to keep the wire runs after the crossover as short as possible. The only way to do that for a 3 way (without the custom hardware and massive signal harness from our Soundstage) would be to cut the wire just inside the door and splice in there, and install the crossovers in the sides of the dash. Of course, you're going to have to hack up your vehicle's wiring to do it.

Be careful using the Soundstage instructions - they are written for the Soundstage which is all completely custom hardware. Example: that midrange wire is being connected to a crossover board that just drives the midrange and midwoofer. The tweeter gets it's own crossover board which is mounted separately.

Yes, but you are extremely unlikely to notice. I regularly see folks killing themselves (and damaging their door wiring) running new wire, and I usually don't have the heart to tell them they are wasting their time and money. Assuming you are using a halfway decent amp, the impact on both power and damping factor are virtually irrelevant. The thing that does have meaningful impact is the crossover frequency shift effected by the increased impedance the crossover sees from the added DCR of the wire IF you mount the crossover in the vehicle rather than in the door. But if you are using an off-the-shelf aftermarket crossover you are already so far off it probably isn't going to matter.

 

Thank you for the response! I should have been more detailed. I have a standard 6 speaker system and I already have the IA T-harness hooked up and feeding signal to my amps (MTX 801D for the sub and the Arc Audio ks125.4 for the components). The JL component system is only a 2-way system. I plan to mount the crossover in the door armrest and place the tweeter where the midrange is located and the 6.5 in the stock location. All my speakers and the crossover will be placed in the door and within close proximity of each other.

So if I'm following correctly I should run two sets of speaker wire from my Arc Audio amp to the speaker wires in the IA T-harness. Then I can tap into the midrange (or the woofer?) speaker wire in the door to feed the crossover, and finally run new wire from the crossover to the tweeter and woofer.

Thanks again! The T-harness seemed pricey at first but after seeing and installing it I would gladly buy it again. Such a time saver and the build quality is impressive.

 

The harness instructions would have been emailed to you, but here they are again just in case you missed them: http://www.integralaudio.com/install...structions.pdf

Read the very last section. What you describe above is correct.

 

ever made one for the r60 Countryman ? Do they have different connector ?

 

Is this available anymore?

 

Not at the moment, maybe again in a couple months. I'm low on stock on a component in this, and can't spare any away from production of our other harnesses. As soon as I have enough inventory I'll have another production run of these harnesses done.

 

I'm interested in one also, please let us know when available

 

I am also interested in the Harness. Thanks!

 

Also ready for one if you're keeping track

 

I would like a harness as well if you are going to make them.

 

Alright folks, I'm looking into placing a new order for the component I'm short on so that I can make more of these. Just a reminder, I don't make money on these - I only cover my costs. These were only ever done as a thank-you to the DIY community here, it'll be the same story now. But it looks like there are enough folks who really need these (more demand than for the rest of our MINI products ;(), and I understand the frustration of there not being anything else on the market.

It may take 2-3 months before they'd be ready, given that length of time can I get a roll call of who would be interested? If there's enough to justify it I'll see if I can get the component ordered.

 

1 - for me please - Mark Vogler

 

As long as it will work in 2010 R55 with HK audio I am in, really want to add a sub, but do not have the funds to do it the Integral Audio way at this time.

Thanks,

 

I would be interested. Not in a rush on time for me.

 

I would like one too please

 

Why not make some money on it? After all, you're providing a product that obviously has a demand..