When I bought mine a month or two back it showed up in less than a week. Won't be too long.

 

Cant ship to Australia :-(

 

Australia should now be available. Along with Europe, the UK, and most of Asia.

 

This is not the same as ordering from the Integral Audio website. There is no data link between Amazon and the warehouse, so no tracking info will be available. Sorry about that. If I list these on the Integral Audio site that will change. But then again, support time/costs (like this!) are rapidly increasing as I was afraid they might, so....dunno on that at the moment.

 

Scratch that....I may have just found a manual workaround. If so, future orders will have tracking info emailed, with a lag of 24-48 hrs. We'll see.

 

Just got it!!!

FIY to HT owners, I tried 2 different subwoofers, both worked great, but one note, they both had to be phased flipped (via switch).
So if you feel the bass in the SW feels disconnected (in time) from the bass in your speakers, flip the phase switch to 180.

DISCLAIMER:

This is not by any means due to IA's X9331 harness, but due to the dimensions of the MINI's interior.


Thanks for this harness Kevin, worth every penny, and I am a recording engineer!!!

Also, for those needing to know, both sets of RCAs are wired to the front speaker output.

 

Where can I get a signal for the amp? I just bought one as well and I was wondering how everyone else did it

 

Instructions should shave been emailed to you after the purchase.
The RCA cables tied into the loom go to the amp. Its line level.

 

What I meant was a signal for the remote turn on.

 

Rear power socket "AKA lighter"

Add a fuse if mounting amp under seat.

 

You can tap pin 1 (solid black) of the X15 connector which should be on top of the X9331.

 

Do be careful in putting the wires back into place behind the trim panel. I was too rough and broke that wire, thus losing not only my turn-on signal but my radio reception. Turns out that wire provides power to the antenna diversity module. (I need to find a few minutes to get in there to splice in a connection around the broken part of cable.)

I haven't heard of anyone else running into this, so I'm pretty sure it's my own ham-handed incompetence that did it.

 

Don't know of anyone else this has happened to either. Am thinking maybe it is related to the wire tapping. How did you tap the wire? We use and recommend Posi-taps - they have a sharp, small pin that pierces the insulation, as opposed to the 3M style insulation displacement taps that can cut the wire if not properly aligned.

And yes, that circuit does provide power to the ant div module.

 

I used a blue (size huge) Posi-tap. Which left a huge hole in the wire & insulation. I actually after going back to visually inspect it think the conductors were still intact. But, possibly foolishly, I cut the wire at that point and spliced in a few inches more wire to see if that would restore power to the antenna module.

Nope.

Hmm.

If it wasn't the Posi-tap itself, maybe I managed to break the conductor where it reaches the X15 jack? Tomorrow, weather permitting, I plan to find a pin I can put into the jack to test continuity from the pin 1 position to the wire behind it. If it's not that … then I'm not sure what to look at next.

(I've enjoyed most of this project, but right now I feel like I've shot myself in the foot and I'm still not sure how I pulled the trigger.)

 

Talk about lack of room, I have the IA harness, then the Alpine retrofit harness all stuffed in there!!

 

That Posi-tap is waaayyy too big for that gauge wire, but it sounds like you already know that....

Any chance you were doing work with the battery connected/car energized? I suspect maybe the fuse on the rad_on/antenna diversity circuit may be blown. Could have happened by accidentally shorting the remote turn on wire to ground, or possibly if the current draw on the remote on for your amp exceeds about 250mA. I do not recall where that fuse is, you'll have to ask around here or dig through the WDS/DIS to find it.

If the fuse is blown, and you don't think you accidentally shorted the remote on wire, check the current draw on the remote on on the amp before connecting it back up.

 

Thank you for the suggestions!

The problem turned out to be embarrassingly simple. After I had verified that all the fuses possibly related to the radio were intact, scanned and cross-referenced WDS and my bentley manual's print versions of those diagrams, checked and reseated all connections, it still wasn't working.

So I decided to start swapping wires. I disconnected my turn-on wire, ran a new bit of wire from the X15 tap across the seats to the amp's remote turn on. And everything worked perfectly.

I re-tested my original turn-on wire, and it passes a continuity test. But it doesn't actually work when used for turn on.

So I pulled the @#$! wire out and threw it away, and ran fresh wire (different wire from a different spool) and put everything back.

So… there was nothing wrong with the tap, or the RAD_ON signal, or the amp, or anything else except for the wire I had used for the turn-on signal. I was a bit surprised, since it came out of a moderately pricey rockford fosgate wiring kit.

Lesson learned: Wire is suspect until proven innocent.

 

Thanks Kevin (Integral Audio) to make the Loom available to Australia, I bought one. I read somewhere people said tapping Mini X9331 to Amp (the Loom) can caused Speaker Distortion. Have you encountered any cases? Is there anything I need to be aware of? Thanks Kim

 

Not with this harness. That issue would be with folks doing a manual tap and inputting to an amp that can't handle a balanced input, with no circuitry to provide load between signal negative and the common ground.

This harness has the necessary components molded into the RCAs, so no worries there.

 

Glad you got it figured out.

 

I have the base system in a R56. I am changing out front AND rear speakers, and adding a 4 channel amp to power all 4. The fronts AND the rears will be fed by my new 4 channel amplifier.

This harness provides two left and two right audio channels via RCAs, but all 4 of them pull from the FRONT speaker HU output. Correct?

Question:
My wifes MINI has the rear parking assist option, and that audio comes out of the REAR speakers (I believe). SO, if I use this harness, I will lose that functionality. I will also lose the ability to fade the sound front to back. I realise that by pulling from the front source ONLY, you have bypassed the dreaded 100hz cutoff problem (which affects only the rears), but caused a different problem for rear park assist people.

Anyone have any ideas? I suppose I could wire into the backup light and cause it to trigger a relay which would then power separate "back up speakers", OR trigger a switcher to switch speaker output paths from the amp to the head unit when she puts it in reverse! But, this is beyond rediculous! LOL!

 

My recommendation: don't amplify - or even replace for that matter - the rear speakers. I've posted on this at length in this forum previously, but you do not want any significant volume level coming from the rears in a stereo (i.e. 2 channel) system. It confuses your ear-brain, and significantly impairs your imaging/soundstage in the process. Spend the extra time/money on your front speakers and subwoofer. You'd be much better off, for example - spending that money on the OEM A-pillar trim with tweeter mounts and using a 3-way setup up front vs 2-way. Just leave the rears as fill - the appropriate level is just high enough that it doesn't sound empty behind you when you turn your head to the left or right.

 

SWEET!!!
Just what I've been looking for!! :-)

 

Kevin, thank you for the opinion/advice. Also, thank you for this product, I ordered one last night.

A question for anyone.....This cable is taking audio at speaker level, and knocking it down to 4v max. Would this be considered making it "line level"???

 

Yup, I use it to power line level to an Infinity Basslink subwoofer.
Works like a charm.

BTW, A Pillars with tweeter pods in the classifieds!!