Soooo, shop did the amp replacement yesterday. Went with the Marine version of the JL in the vid. M 400/4. One of the reasons the H/K fails is the location and extra moisture it's exposed to. It's he same amp, hopefully will run into less issues.

Let me just say, if you want to keep your stock speakers, head unit, steering wheel controls, and keep everything looking stock. this is the way to go.

The stereo sounds INCREDIBLE!!!...so much better than with the H/K amp. It's not even comparable and the H/K system was one of the things that I loved so much about my car. I'm kinda upset this didn't happen earlier

They ran 2 channels to the rear, 2 channels to the front, plus crossovers for the tweeters. The rears actually act as mini subs

This is a pretty simple job for a car stereo shop.

Will post pics later

 

How much did it run you? And as far as crossovers, you mean something like these right?

 

Not like the picture above. They were more like small bass-blockers. The extra cost for both was $30 total.



The whole thing; amp, wiring kit, crossovers, professional installation, was $600.

The amp itself was $400. You could probably go cheaper and get the whole thing done for $450 as JBL makes one that will fit in the original spot on the wheel well for $230 for the amp. I was set on that JL though.

IMO, I got a much better sounding system without compromising the look of the stock system including steering wheel functions for $400 less than the dealer.

Very happy so far.

 

I too have been looking into JL Audio. I saw that vid for the XD400/4 and as a result contacted a tech at JL who said that amp should work as a solution and you can wire the front speakers and tweeters in parallel without adding a crossover. His words not mine, and he's the tech. What he said is a better solution is to put in an XD600/6 (or M600/6) so you have separate controls for each speaker pair and the crossovers, which are also controlled at the amp like the HK, can also adjust frequency from the JL for each component speaker. Whats great about these amps is that you can also keep your HK 2 Ohm speakers. The amp is plenty compact and sounds like a good solution.

After I do some intensive internet shopping, I'll be installing as a DIY solution and hope to publish the steps for anybody else who's considering.

 

@jashepan
thanks for the update. Glad it worked out.

 

If you don't put a GOOD cap or a crossover on the tweeter you'll blow it up. It had a cap on it now but it won't take a lot of power.
Also if you wire it in in parallel you will drop the OHM load below 2. It would be a 1ohm load. Which that JL amp will not support. I think your JL tech is a bit off on this one.

how many speakers you are wiring together.
Wire in a series pattern. In a series configuration, ohms are additive. For example, if you wire 2 speakers, each functioning at 8 ohms, this results in a 16-ohm load. A series pattern is used when you are only wiring 1 speaker that is plugged directly into the amplifier or wire 2 speakers together for a 16-ohm load.

Wire in a parallel pattern. The resistance of speakers in a parallel pattern decreases, which is the opposite of the series pattern. For example, 2 speakers that each contains an 8-ohm load results in a 4-ohm load in a parallel pattern. This works well for speakers that can handle a 4-ohm load; however, most speakers cannot handle this type of load.

Wire in a series-parallel combination. This wiring technique is simply 2 sets of series configurations connected in parallel. This configuration helps maintain a consistent load with multiple speakers.

 

After too many weeks of driving in silence, I gave in and rigged up a temp fix to my failed HK amp.
Like many here, I find the HK system just good enough to not wake the inner car audio nut I have long suppressed. Now that the amp has failed, and after sincere(ish) efforts to repair it, I am going to go ahead and dredge up my past life in custom car audio and put in a fun system appropriate for the mini.
For the interim, however, I did some probing to get some sound while I piece together the new system: With the amp removed, I threw a couple of passive crossovers in the amp location (Dynaudio 2 ways for what it's worth). W/o the amp of course there is no dsp, but you do regain your attenuation (no pun intended) at the head unit and maintain basic preamp functions (bass, treble, balance). I simply jumpered the left and right hu speaker outs along with the front mids and tweets to the crossovers from the amp harness (you can use the 6x9's if you want, just wire the dvc's in series). I wired a 2 ohm resister in series with each front woofer (no need on the tweets) to create a safe load for the hu.
Now I can listen to my morning shows again and it cost nothing (well ok minimal cost if you don't have some old passive crossovers laying around). The volume is fine and the resulting sound quality is motivation to get the new system in. Win win.

 

My daughter's probably died a few months ago. Haven't had a chance to check it but why else would the radio power up but have no sound.

After I deal with a few other problems that just arose - harmonic balancer failed (but didnt explode) she was only a few miles away when the outside pulley started spinning free and grinding up against the block. Ordering the parts and doing the swap this week.

Ill probably install a whole new system, radio, speakers and wiring though she'll lose her steering wheel controls

Too bad since I just installed the OEM factory iPod interface, not cheap for these cars, maybe I can re-sell it.

 

I put in a JL Audio XD600/6 (M600/6, the marine version, will work well if you have extra dampness) in our 2004 Mini Cooper (R50) this weekend -- took me about 7 hours in total and not too tough if you have some DIY in you. I got a refurbished amp on eBay for under $300 and spent about $15 on connectors. There are lots of these amps out there in the $350 range and, if you choose to go this route, it will let you keep your Harman Kardon (HK) head unit intact and connect up to your existing HK 2ohm speakers. It cost much less than the $1000+ Mini wants to replace with 8 yr old HK technology, and you'll have more watts and cleaner sound, and as I mentioned, you can definitely Do-It-Yourself. No add'l crossovers needed either -- this is a 6 channel amp with adjustable crossovers and level input adjustment at the amp. You'll lose the front/rear fade option since that was controlled digitally between the HK Head Unit and the HK amp, however a JL amp wired remote is also available if you should so feel the need (JL Audio HD-RLC ~$25), but you can also just set-and-forget the input levels at the amp for balance between the 3 sets of channels. Be careful not to overdrive your speakers by over cranking the inputs.

Firstly though...
Disclaimer: I'm not an electrical engineer or car audio installer, so anything posted here is solely my experience. Caveat Emptor.

This site was a lot of help in the seat and panel disassembly. Starting here and the next couple of pages forward: http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/rearseat.htm

NOTE: Before you do anything with the amp, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY. 300/600watts is a lot of juice and could be lethal. Safety first. Make sure there is no way the lead can spring back to your battery while you are working. I put the plastic cover back over my battery to be sure.

Also, I like to wire up all the new speaker connections first, then the amp ground connection, 12v power and remote last.

These maps of the wires I found to be accurate and were essential:
http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/hk-plug-grey.htm
http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/hk-plug-black.htm

After you disconnect the wiring harness from the amp, pry this wiring plug apart with a jewellers screwdriver or a knife and a black half and grey half should pull out of the connector. Release the triangular tangs that lock the wires in the halves with nail or tiny screwdriver. The metal tangs on the wires work pretty well without stripping, you can plug them straight into the XD600/6 wire connection holes -- tighten down on them with the alan key provided.

Its fairly straightforward to wire everything up. Just follow the diagrams that will tell you which coded wires the tweeters, door speakers and woofers connect to. The power, ground and remote, as well as the input leads from the HK head unit need to be wired up as well. That's about it.

You'll need two RCA connectors to wire up the two-channel input from the HK Head Unit to the amp. Positive (+) goes to the center pole. There is a switch at the amp to accept 2 channel input, and that's what you'll need to select.

You'll need to extend the Subwoofer A speaker leads to the amp (I ignored Subwoofer B, those leads seemed redundant and everything seems to work without B just fine) by about 4"/15cm.

The biggest part of the job for me was cutting and drilling a thin metal plate to mount the amp back onto the original HK bracket. Its a tight fit but the JL Audio XD600/6 does work in the same space the Harmon Kardon fit in and another reason to go with JL -- their stuff is very compact. The remounting job will take up the most of your time since you'll be inventing/re-jigging. But all in all it, I found it a fun weekend project.

If you find you have amp hiss, even without the Head Unit switched on, turn your inputs all the way down and mix back up from there. That should fix it. Use the included JL manual to learn about and then adjust the frequency filters (crossovers) and inputs. Adjust to your taste with the head unit controls set flat. Again, don't cook your speakers by over dialling the inputs. Keep the inputs as low as possible to minimize noise.

One note: I have to mail order and run some 4AWG wire that JL recommends for the 12v power since I live In-The-Middle-Of-NoWhere but in the meantime, I'm using the stock Mini power to the HK amp and it seems to be working fine for now. I'll let you know if it starts blowing fuses.

So bottom line...
I did it myself. Saved at least $700. Looks like a factory install. Sounds awesome.

If you have any questions, I'll try and answer.

 

Mine died last weekend. These HK amp's are crap!

 

Paul, excellent summary. Thanks. I got mine professionally installed and now I'm wishing I went with the 6 channel vs the 4 channel.
I've had the cover off the amp so I can make adjustmants but I can't seem to find the right balance on the fly. It's pushing way too much to the tweeters. And without the fade, it makes it even harder.

How do you have the 6 channels set up? Is there a mid pass switch? I would think it would be
2 x high pass (tweeters)
2 x mid pass (lower door speakers)
2 x low pass (rear speakers that are actually tiny subs)

?

 

No mid pass switch, per se, but you can dial out most of what you don't like using the frequency and input controls that are there.

The settings on the six channel amp are OFF|HP|LP and I have the tweeters and door speakers set on HP and the rear speakers on LP. I initially found the tweeters too hot as well so dialled them down using the input dial. They all seem fairly well balanced now. I used a CD for best sound during set up since FM has limited frequency response and the iPod has compressed audio.

Approximate settings I have:
Tweeters HP, frequency dial set to 500hz (all the way up); input dial setting~8 o'clock
Doors: HP, frequency dial set to 80hz; input dial setting~10 o'clock
Rear: LP, frequency dial set to all the way down (maximum bass); input dial setting~1 o'clock

 

Excellent Paul! Thanks for the details. I will probably go this route with my daughters Mini (unless she hits the lottery beforehand)

 

I fear I may be a victim of this same problem. I no longer have sound for satellite and I am wonder if the rest of far behind. Fortunately I have a friend that owns a car audio shop and is also a JL Audio dealer.

 

I have a amp from my 04 r53 mcs.. works perfectly.. took it off because i redid the whole system... its for sale if anyone wants it!! PM mee

 

that is a harman kardon amp ^ sorry forgot to add it

 

PM sent

 

sorry guys i do not have any background in audio. would like to ask if is it possible to use jl hd 900/5? Main Channels @ 4 Ω 100 W RMS x 4
Main Channels @ 3 Ω 75 W RMS x 4
Main Channels @ 2 Ω 75 W RMS x 4
Main Channels @ 1.5 Ω 75 W RMS x 4
Main Channels - Bridged @ 8 Ω 200 W RMS x 2
Main Channels - Bridged @ 4 Ω 150 W RMS x 2
Subwoofer Channel @ 4 Ω 500 W RMS x 1
Subwoofer Channel @ 3 Ω 500 W RMS x 1
Subwoofer Channel @ 2 Ω 500 W RMS x 1
Subwoofer Channel @ 1.5 Ω 500 W RMS x 1

i'm thinking 2 channels for the tweeters, 2 channels for the door speaker and 1 channel for the sub at the rear (not sure if you gonna series or parallel or whatever it to the 1 channel)

 

Yup. 2003. Failed in 2012

 

This might be a dumb question, but exactly where is the HK amp on a 2004 MCS with NAV??? Looks like an amp in the rear right compartment with the hatch open??? Yeah, that's it, found it. I'm not a stereo brainiac. I just lost all sound from the HK system and NAV after having the Mini shipped to Maui. I lost the maps too on the NAV. Aren't the Hawaiian Isles included in the USA disc??? Thanks in advance! 55K on the 2004 MCS. MinisRcheeky

P.S. Anyone have a used working HK amp for sale? Thanks again.

 

That's the spot. You'll need an extra-long screwdriver to get it out.

 

is possible to remove the h/k amp without removing the rear seat?

 

Thanks for the reply LowMo. Why would you need an extra long screwdriver to get the amp out??? When you remove the side plate there appears to be only a single screw holding the amp in place? Does some of the plastic trim have to be removed as well to gain full access??? I found a good used H/K amp out of a low mileage 2006 Cooper 'S'. It's on the way. Can I unplug the broken amp and plug in the new without disconnecting the battery? I get the feeling a lot of things will need to be reset if the power is disconnected. I don't want to chance it. I changed out both the Xenon headlamp bulbs once without any trouble, (did not disconnect battery) Thanks for your advice. The used amp was four bills.
MinisRcheeky

 

IIRC, there are two or three screws to remove, including one on the upper left side. If you don't take that interior panel off (I didn't), you need a loooong screwdriver to get at it. If yours is held in with only one screw, it may have been replaced before. My replacement is held in by just one screw.

You don't need to remove the back seat, Scoopy.

It's probably best to disconnect the battery, but I don't remember if I did or not.

Good luck, and don't forget to post your experience here so that others can benefit.

 

looking at it is very tight going to the upper left screw. but do i have to remove the panel ? or were you able to remove the amp by just removing the cover?