Navigation & Audio Solution to adding more power to the factory Stereo
#1
I noticed that many MINI owners want to get more power from the factory stereo by adding amp(s). Especially for the ones with LOUD exhaust and air intake, more power would help to drown out those noises. :smile:
OEM stereo only has speaker-level output. A simple solution is to get an amp with speaker-level input. Bad idea! It will increase the possiblility of introducing unwanted noise into the system. A good solution is RCA type line-level converter.
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04 IB/W JCW MCS
OEM stereo only has speaker-level output. A simple solution is to get an amp with speaker-level input. Bad idea! It will increase the possiblility of introducing unwanted noise into the system. A good solution is RCA type line-level converter.
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04 IB/W JCW MCS
Last edited by dcsmd007; 06-23-2004 at 11:19 AM.
#2
Ok, this is my first post as I my DS MCS just came in this past week, and Im looking forward to start the modding. With these cars being as unique as they are, it is much harder to find specific info on do-it-yourself mods than say a Ford F150. This particular post is the closest I could find all throughout the net on people wanting to add a subwoofer to the stock system for more low-end. However, after hours of searching, I could not find the info I need. Dave says to get a line level adapter like every other vehicle to use a sub amp, but no one has more specific info on the install. I do not have the HK upgrade, however the two plugs are in the r/s compartment in the boot. After some testing with the multimeter, I came to the conclusion that these wires do not have speaker output, therefore I need to tap into the speaker output wires at the Head unit and run an RCA cable to the amp. Does anyone have the wiring diagram/schematic so I dont have to waste time probing and testing the harness to death?? I have a system that I transfer when I get a new vehicle, and all I want is a little more bass, so a headunit upgrade is unecessary. Someone out there has possibly done this, as its not complicated, basically tap into the r/s + and - and l/s + and - speaker outputs, its just finding out whichwires those are. Like I said, I found tons of schems and diagrams for everything from Bimmers to Volvos, but no luck find MC related info...
Thanks
Shane
Thanks
Shane
#3
First of all, congrats on your new MCS and welcome to NAM!
Only HK has the amp/DSP inside the right storage compartment in the boot. For non-HK unit, you can get the speaker-level signals from the following areas:
1. the rear speakers
2. kickpanels
3. directly from the head unit
What sub are you considering? Self-powered or are you adding an amp to drive the sub?
Some self-powered sub have auto on/off, which eliminates the need for remote turn on lead. Also due to the frequency response of the sub, high frequency engine whine will not be an issue. Hence, PAC OEM might not be necessary. :smile:
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Terminally infected with the epidemic MINI MOD BUG that's going around NAM
Only HK has the amp/DSP inside the right storage compartment in the boot. For non-HK unit, you can get the speaker-level signals from the following areas:
1. the rear speakers
2. kickpanels
3. directly from the head unit
What sub are you considering? Self-powered or are you adding an amp to drive the sub?
Some self-powered sub have auto on/off, which eliminates the need for remote turn on lead. Also due to the frequency response of the sub, high frequency engine whine will not be an issue. Hence, PAC OEM might not be necessary. :smile:
_________________
Terminally infected with the epidemic MINI MOD BUG that's going around NAM
#4
First of all, thanks for all the great info davecsumini! I have a couple of questions maybe you can answer for me. I would imagine this is true, but does the hk amp have a remote power? Do I tap into the wires on the back or front of the hk amp? I have a high level to low level output adapter, not the one you mentioned, but I like mine so I want to keep using it. Thanks again dave!
#5
If you want to retain the functions of HK's DSP, you should take the signal post-DSP. Regarding remote turn on, it is a common issue for many OEM stereo. In the case of HK, which has an external amp, you might be able to find a power wire to tap into for remote turn on. Try to use a multi-meter while turning the stereo on and off to see if there's a on/off power supply wire for the HK DSP amp. In any case if there isn't a remote turn on, PAC OEM line-level converter is a good option.
#6
MINI2 has a picture of the wiring connections on the back of the stock head unit:
HU wiring connections
From memory, the HK amp uses pin 16 as its turnon signal; this should be OK for any aftermarket amp too (if trying to replace the HK amp, it is pin 15 on the HK connector).
Greaser, depending on where you might want to mount the amp & subwoofer, you could pick up the signals off the rear speakers - removing the rear panels is possible (again, MINI2 has instructions)) and might be easier than accessing wires at the head unit then tidily running them to the rear of the vehicle.
Davecsumini, I am not sure I agree with mounting the hi-lo converter as near to the HU as possible ... the signals from the HU going to the speakers should be low impedance and resistant to picked up noise, but the converted signals are high impedance and more likely to pick up noise?
Have you done this install? Have you tried the hi-lo converters in multiple places?
HU wiring connections
From memory, the HK amp uses pin 16 as its turnon signal; this should be OK for any aftermarket amp too (if trying to replace the HK amp, it is pin 15 on the HK connector).
Greaser, depending on where you might want to mount the amp & subwoofer, you could pick up the signals off the rear speakers - removing the rear panels is possible (again, MINI2 has instructions)) and might be easier than accessing wires at the head unit then tidily running them to the rear of the vehicle.
Davecsumini, I am not sure I agree with mounting the hi-lo converter as near to the HU as possible ... the signals from the HU going to the speakers should be low impedance and resistant to picked up noise, but the converted signals are high impedance and more likely to pick up noise?
Have you done this install? Have you tried the hi-lo converters in multiple places?
#7
Iancull, great info on HK. In which case, remote turn-on will not be an issue for HK. Any hi-lo converter will work for addition of an amp.
>>... the signals from the HU going to the speakers should be low impedance and resistant to picked up noise, but the converted signals are high impedance and more likely to pick up noise?
>>Have you done this install? Have you tried the hi-lo converters in multiple places?
Theoretically, it might be true. However, after experimenting with different locations, I found it was best to use well-insulated RCA wires from the converter to the amp and mount the converter closer to the H/U.
A set of quality RAC cables isolate noises better than speaker wires due to the design of the wires. In a RCA wire, the core carries (+) signal while the (-) signal surrounds the core, acting as a shield from ground interference. Whereas in a speaker wire, both + and - signals are separate from one another and shielded only by the covering, making them more susceptible to noise interference. :smile:
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Terminally infected with the epidemic MINI MOD BUG that's going around NAM
>>... the signals from the HU going to the speakers should be low impedance and resistant to picked up noise, but the converted signals are high impedance and more likely to pick up noise?
>>Have you done this install? Have you tried the hi-lo converters in multiple places?
Theoretically, it might be true. However, after experimenting with different locations, I found it was best to use well-insulated RCA wires from the converter to the amp and mount the converter closer to the H/U.
A set of quality RAC cables isolate noises better than speaker wires due to the design of the wires. In a RCA wire, the core carries (+) signal while the (-) signal surrounds the core, acting as a shield from ground interference. Whereas in a speaker wire, both + and - signals are separate from one another and shielded only by the covering, making them more susceptible to noise interference. :smile:
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Terminally infected with the epidemic MINI MOD BUG that's going around NAM
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#8
Thanks for the link to the diagram Ian! Thats exactly what I was looking for.. That should save lots of time, rather than just guessing.. I would rather not spend all day pulling out the interior just to access some wires.. Its easier to hook them up in a central location rather than lengthening one or both sides of the speaker leads to the line adapter. I have run these PAC line level adapters in vehicles for years, and found that the farther away from the HU you get, you are more likely to get noise. Radio Shack has an in-line RCA noise filter, but this will reduce your output.
Also, in the HK plug in the boot, the small plug with the red wire has 12V with the radio on, I just havent checked to see when it turns off, so it may be a possible remote wire.
I actually have a 10" bazooka and an Autotek amp that Ive collected over the years. I may change my mind and try the JL stealth box, as there are many MC owners raving about them.
Thanks again guys
Also, in the HK plug in the boot, the small plug with the red wire has 12V with the radio on, I just havent checked to see when it turns off, so it may be a possible remote wire.
I actually have a 10" bazooka and an Autotek amp that Ive collected over the years. I may change my mind and try the JL stealth box, as there are many MC owners raving about them.
Thanks again guys
#9
>>...I have run these PAC line level adapters in vehicles for years, and found that the farther away from the HU you get, you are more likely to get noise.
This is what I've discovered as well. Hence, I've mounted the hi-lo converter as close to HU as possible. Although what Ian said about the impedance and resistance might be true, do keep in mind that the signals going from H/U to the converter are AMPLIFIED. :smile:
There's a pocket of space right behind the A/C controller underneath the head unit, which is a perfect location for a line-level converter. :smile:
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Terminally infected with the epidemic MINI MOD BUG that's going around NAM
This is what I've discovered as well. Hence, I've mounted the hi-lo converter as close to HU as possible. Although what Ian said about the impedance and resistance might be true, do keep in mind that the signals going from H/U to the converter are AMPLIFIED. :smile:
There's a pocket of space right behind the A/C controller underneath the head unit, which is a perfect location for a line-level converter. :smile:
_________________
Terminally infected with the epidemic MINI MOD BUG that's going around NAM
#10
#11
Great stuff peeps!
Got a question for all the Audoiphiles out there, and it's related to this thread also!
I have a stock MCS 02 sound system, there isn't an exsisting additional Amp already installed somewhere in line, is there? I suspect the headunit is performing that function also.
If I was to add an aftermarket Amp, is there a concern about DBSE matching between the HU and the Amp?
For those that have just added an Amp to their exsisting HU, did you have any problem with ground noise?
Thanks
Got a question for all the Audoiphiles out there, and it's related to this thread also!
I have a stock MCS 02 sound system, there isn't an exsisting additional Amp already installed somewhere in line, is there? I suspect the headunit is performing that function also.
If I was to add an aftermarket Amp, is there a concern about DBSE matching between the HU and the Amp?
For those that have just added an Amp to their exsisting HU, did you have any problem with ground noise?
Thanks
#12
>>I have a stock MCS 02 sound system, there isn't an exsisting additional Amp already installed somewhere in line, is there? I
If you don't have HK, there's no external amp driving the speakers
----------------------
>>If I was to add an aftermarket Amp, is there a concern about DBSE matching between the HU and the Amp?
That will not be an issue once you add an hi-lo converter between the HU and the amp.
----------------------
>>For those that have just added an Amp to their exsisting HU, did you have any problem with ground noise?
Different converters can have different results. I'm using PAC OEM 2 that provides remote turn-on and there's no problem with ground noise. Try not to run the signal cables along the power cable or cross them if possible. Use well insulated RCA cables will also help! I run all the signal wires along the passenger side and all the power cables along the driver side, becuase that's where the factory power cable is anyway. :smile:
If you don't have HK, there's no external amp driving the speakers
----------------------
>>If I was to add an aftermarket Amp, is there a concern about DBSE matching between the HU and the Amp?
That will not be an issue once you add an hi-lo converter between the HU and the amp.
----------------------
>>For those that have just added an Amp to their exsisting HU, did you have any problem with ground noise?
Different converters can have different results. I'm using PAC OEM 2 that provides remote turn-on and there's no problem with ground noise. Try not to run the signal cables along the power cable or cross them if possible. Use well insulated RCA cables will also help! I run all the signal wires along the passenger side and all the power cables along the driver side, becuase that's where the factory power cable is anyway. :smile:
#14
I have a stock MCS 02 sound system, there isn't an exsisting additional Amp already installed somewhere in line, is there? I
>>
>>If you don't have HK, there's no external amp driving the speakers
>>
>>----------------------
>>>>If I was to add an aftermarket Amp, is there a concern about DBSE matching between the HU and the Amp?
>>
>>That will not be an issue once you add an hi-lo converter between the HU and the amp.
>>
>>----------------------
>>>>For those that have just added an Amp to their exsisting HU, did you have any problem with ground noise?
>>
>>Different converters can have different result. I'm using PAC OEM 2 that provides remote turn-on and there's no problem with ground noise. Try not to run the signal cables along the power cable or cross them if possible. Use well insulated RCA cables will also help! :smile:
>>
>>If you don't have HK, there's no external amp driving the speakers
>>
>>----------------------
>>>>If I was to add an aftermarket Amp, is there a concern about DBSE matching between the HU and the Amp?
>>
>>That will not be an issue once you add an hi-lo converter between the HU and the amp.
>>
>>----------------------
>>>>For those that have just added an Amp to their exsisting HU, did you have any problem with ground noise?
>>
>>Different converters can have different result. I'm using PAC OEM 2 that provides remote turn-on and there's no problem with ground noise. Try not to run the signal cables along the power cable or cross them if possible. Use well insulated RCA cables will also help! :smile:
#15
#19
>>Does the PCM-EOM2 (or whatever) reduce noise like a filter or would I need to buy both?
PAC OEM 2 doesn't have the noise filter. Most of the time, the filter is not neccessary as long as it's properly mounted. I mounted mine as close to the source as possible, which is behind the AC controls. No problem with noise. :smile:
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PAC OEM 2 doesn't have the noise filter. Most of the time, the filter is not neccessary as long as it's properly mounted. I mounted mine as close to the source as possible, which is behind the AC controls. No problem with noise. :smile:
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#20
Keep the stock head unit AND have line outs to an amp:
http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...head+unit+line
I did it a year ago- amazing improvement over stock (don't forget to change out all the stock speakers!).
http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...head+unit+line
I did it a year ago- amazing improvement over stock (don't forget to change out all the stock speakers!).
#21
Also see this old thread about adding amps and getting some high pitched unwanted engine noise on your headunit (how to prevent it)
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...1&start=50
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Aloha Hawaii
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...1&start=50
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Aloha Hawaii
#23
Hi guys,
I was watching Tricked Out on the DIY network this past week and they had an 03 MCS that had the stock non-H/K unit. It looks like the owner of the car, whose name is Cooper, has a few Alta mods under the hood. The host mounted an amp and subwoofer enclosure in the boot and had all the instructions for the procedure. Here is the link and I hope this helps maybe one or two of you.
http://www.diynet.com/diy/ab_stereo/article/0,2021,DIY_13694_4320915,00.html
I was watching Tricked Out on the DIY network this past week and they had an 03 MCS that had the stock non-H/K unit. It looks like the owner of the car, whose name is Cooper, has a few Alta mods under the hood. The host mounted an amp and subwoofer enclosure in the boot and had all the instructions for the procedure. Here is the link and I hope this helps maybe one or two of you.
http://www.diynet.com/diy/ab_stereo/article/0,2021,DIY_13694_4320915,00.html
#25